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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...and has an awful lot of negative camber in the front and back. Is there anything that can be done to correct the front camber without dropping almost $400 on adjustable camber plates? I used the search, albeit quickly, and found only threads about using the plates. Basically, can I get some positive camber back on the cheap, like fixed plates that only correct it so much, etc. I had a camber issue on another car, and it was fixed by slotting the bolt holes so the top of the strut could be moved; maybe something like that...
 

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Im Bluffin With My Muffin
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I would just save and get camber plates(400 seems high for them) donno any other way to loose front camber

Btw is that you hugging a banjo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Problem is that I'll be using this car as a daily driver, don't want to lose a war pension on tires. I've fixed plates that are for adding negative camber, but none that are for taking it away :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I found something else at Summit, wonder how well this works? Does anybody have any experience with this kind of thing?
 

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Ich bin der Modifikator
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Tire Rack carries the Eibach brand for your car, but they very pricey!

$278.00 just for a pair of bolts........

tirerack.com


jb
 

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Millions of them.
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Guys, 5.72070K on TireRack which you guys are looking at are camber plates; TireRack just uses a generic image ... look on eibach.com if you don't believe me.

Camber bolts can not work on a e36 because of the way the strut mounts to the car ... you can add camber with longer bolts and washer but there is no way to take it away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Camber bolts can not work on a e36 because of the way the strut mounts to the car ... you can add camber with longer bolts and washer but there is no way to take it away.
Please explain to me where you'd put longer bolts ans washers to add camber. I believe what you are saying, I'm just trying to get a better idea of precisely what you mean.
 

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Take a look at this diagram: RealOEM.com BMW E36 318i MOTORSPORT CHASSIS SPRING STRUT

The bolt #3 and washer #4 in the picture are what you replace. The factory bolts (2 of them per side) are 20mm long. You'd need 25mm long bolts and 5mm worth of washers per bolt (depends on manufacturer of bolts but normally 4 washers).

Let's say you only want to shim it out a little bit: you put two washers between the strut and the spindle (and you put the other two where the factory #4 washer was); if you need all 4, then you put all 4 between the strut and spindle and use only one (the factory one) where the original was too.

Keep in mind though that you need 10.9 grade bolts and washers (which only some hardware stores sell): the bolts are M12x## (## being whatever length you need; factory is 20mm) and the washers are M12. The 10.9 (grade of steel) is normally on the head of the bolt. Do not use weaker (8.8 grade) bolts ... last thing you want is for one of them to snap (especially with the extended length) after you hit a pothole.

Most online parts sources sell "camber shim kits" and what have you; Google: e36 camber shims or something like that and you'll find plenty of stuff.
 

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Ich bin der Modifikator
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Take a look at this diagram: RealOEM.com BMW E36 318i MOTORSPORT CHASSIS SPRING STRUT

The bolt #3 and washer #4 in the picture are what you replace. The factory bolts (2 of them per side) are 20mm long. You'd need 25mm long bolts and 5mm worth of washers per bolt (depends on manufacturer of bolts but normally 4 washers).

Let's say you only want to shim it out a little bit: you put two washers between the strut and the spindle (and you put the other two where the factory #4 washer was); if you need all 4, then you put all 4 between the strut and spindle and use only one (the factory one) where the original was too.

Keep in mind though that you need 10.9 grade bolts and washers (which only some hardware stores sell): the bolts are M12x## (## being whatever length you need; factory is 20mm) and the washers are M12. The 10.9 (grade of steel) is normally on the head of the bolt. Do not use weaker (8.8 grade) bolts ... last thing you want is for one of them to snap (especially with the extended length) after you hit a pothole.

Most online parts sources sell "camber shim kits" and what have you; Google: e36 camber shims or something like that and you'll find plenty of stuff.
Would something like this work? in his case......


http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared...ord=camber+shims&Target=products.asp&x=43&y=8

johnny
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Take a look at this diagram: RealOEM.com BMW E36 318i MOTORSPORT CHASSIS SPRING STRUT

The bolt #3 and washer #4 in the picture are what you replace. The factory bolts (2 of them per side) are 20mm long. You'd need 25mm long bolts and 5mm worth of washers per bolt (depends on manufacturer of bolts but normally 4 washers).

Let's say you only want to shim it out a little bit: you put two washers between the strut and the spindle (and you put the other two where the factory #4 washer was); if you need all 4, then you put all 4 between the strut and spindle and use only one (the factory one) where the original was too.

Keep in mind though that you need 10.9 grade bolts and washers (which only some hardware stores sell): the bolts are M12x## (## being whatever length you need; factory is 20mm) and the washers are M12. The 10.9 (grade of steel) is normally on the head of the bolt. Do not use weaker (8.8 grade) bolts ... last thing you want is for one of them to snap (especially with the extended length) after you hit a pothole.

Most online parts sources sell "camber shim kits" and what have you; Google: e36 camber shims or something like that and you'll find plenty of stuff.
Thak you SO so much for that! That little piece of information has made my day! I really appreciate you guys finding all this stuff I missed in my research, especially for something that's not really your problem. :D
 
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