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any one know where to get and how to put in a second alternator? i think i would need it because i want to put in two 1000 watt subs plus speakers i think that the second alternator would definetlly help but i don't know where or how to put a second in
 

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You'll need a set of ear plugs more than a second alternator. You also might sustain some internal injuries! :joking:
 

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i would n't probbly use it to its full potential unless i was showin it off t my friends another issue would be plexi glass windows. a kid at my school had a tahoe with spinners and three 1000 watt kickers. you could feel it threee car lengths a way at a stop sign maybe i could put in a bigger alternator but i still think the second is a good i dea since i want to add some video also :band
 

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rather than a twin alternator it would be cheaper and easier to upgrade to a higher amperage alternator.

And 1000W subs wont do anything w/o a 2000W amp, which would draw roughly 100-120 amps MAX. The amperage at the RMS level would be around 50-70. The factory alternator pus out an additional 50 or so amps over what the car requires to operate, so upgrading would would be cheaper and more effective.
 

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i saw this on "monster garage" they just set up a second onr next to the first... mounted it right to the same brachet i think
 

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i want to put in two 1000 watt subs plus speakers
What? New mid+high speakers or are you talking about sub drivers? The speakers themselves don't draw power, it's the amp, telling us the speaker wattage (and not even specifying peak or RMS) doesn’t help us too much.

If you get a 2000W amp (which you don’t need, since the sub rating you gave is probably peak. Peak rating is a marketing term and should be ignored) then you are going to need a 1-2 farad capacitor into your car's electrical system to act as a buffer to ease the strain on essentially ALL of your car's electrical components. Massive voltage drops (which occur when you play hard bass notes on a weak electrical system, seen as light dimming) are hell on modern electrical equipment such as microprocessors and such. Either way, anything that produces more than 1kW, you need at least a 1 farad capacitor per kW of drain that you have.
If you have an 80 amp alternator, you MAY be alright with a big enough capacitor. Anything less, I'd get a new one (might as well get a badass one while your at it). I agree with El Presidente. Just get one big alternator.
Now, so I can really give you specific directions on what you need to do, tell me what kind of amplifier(s) you intend on using, the drivers you plan on hooking up to them, and your listening habits. (Loud? Bassy music? Both?)

What I need to hear from you: What kind of driver is it? What is the RMS rating on the subs? DVC? Ohms?
Do you have an amplifier? List it's specs [such as THD, channel separation, signal to noise, RMS wattage]) If not, what do you plan on getting and list it's specs. Plan on getting it all professionally installed or are you more of a DIY in this field? What kind of enclosure is the sub going to be in? (let me tell you right now, do not get plexi glass OR lexan.)
 

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plexi is fine as long as its properly constructed, and its actually better than wood because of it's higher density...

If you purchased efficient equipment, you shouldnt even have to upgrade your alternator...

try getting a class D amp (since it seems like sound quality isnt #1 on your list) that puts out 1kW @ 4ohms, and a 4 ohm sub that can handle the power - you'll barely be drawing enough current to max that stock alt out unless you turned it up all the way and clipped it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i listen to like linkin park mettalica and stuff like that i like louda and bassy stuff. i was thinkin about goin with two audiobahn ultra excurrison subs(12'' 1200 watts rms) or 2 immortals(12'' 2000 watt rms) i would probbly end up goin with there amps to unless u guys know of a better company that produces good decent priced high amperage amps. i would end up goin with there speakers to and adding a higher amperage amp for them also. i found a big alterantor online that puts out 120 amps. it sounds pretty good but i saw that thing on monster garage and it got me thinkin that two alternators would be cool mainly it would be for show use
 

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Originally posted by sp0rky@Feb 8 2004, 01:54 AM
plexi is fine as long as its properly constructed, and its actually better than wood because of it's higher density...
...but it flexes and doesn’t allow for a pressure level change because it's acting more like a balloon instead of a separate air chamber like it's suppose to.
Density doesn’t matter, hardness does.
 

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2000 W RMS!!! Jesus F*****G Christ!!! I've been in a car with 600W rms amp/subs playing full blast and after a few minutes I got heart fibrilations and a nose bleed!
Try something a little smaller unless you plan on attending competitions.
:rock
 

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Originally posted by Mattitjah@Feb 28 2004, 02:44 AM
2000 W RMS!!! Jesus F*****G Christ!!! I've been in a car with 600W rms amp/subs playing full blast and after a few minutes I got heart fibrilations and a nose bleed!
Try something a little smaller unless you plan on attending competitions.
:rock
well, SPL really depends on the efficency of the driver... you could have a 5 Kw setup and it could still be fairly quiet if it was nowhere near efficent. It's the SPL that matters, not wattage.
 

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I'm not sure you fully understood my post.... Wattage does not directly correlate to loudness... to measure loudness with wattage, you need to know the driver's efficiency of converting electricity to mechanical movement and how accurately it can do this.
Generally, yes, more power=more SPL but the scale of loudness to wattage is not the same for driver to driver.
Same principal goes for driver size. a 10" CAN be much louder than a 15" of a different brand\model ever could be, I've had experience setting up systems like this and have seen T\S specs where this would be true. It all depends on the mechanical throw length the drivers can extrude to + the electrical efficiency of the driver.

This can be related to a car's torque vs. acceleration speed specs. You can have a crap ton of engine power (EG: wattage), but really tall gears (EG: inefficient speaker) so it doesn’t accelerate fast (EG: system not as loud).

In most cases, an inefficient driver (one that needs much more power to play loud) will sound better and be more accurate than a much more efficient driver that requires much less power.
 

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Originally posted by alanh@Feb 7 2004, 09:10 PM
i saw this on "monster garage" they just set up a second onr next to the first... mounted it right to the same brachet i think
i wonder why? :cheers that was a american car too
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i understand what u said kid at school has a 3000w kicker can't play anything to another kids 1000w jl

i think audoibahns are good they seem to be pretty eficent saw them at a car show they are sweet
 

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I would go with an Ohio Generator alternator....200 amp. I have sold about 8 of them to some customers with big systems in the last 2 months...They said that was the best investment they had made on their system...That is the heart of the system, if it isn't up to par, adding additional batteries in the rear, etc is just going to make it work harder and be not near as efficient....The ones I have been selling range anywhere from $550-$650 installed...
 
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