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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All...I would really appreciate your help here guy...I am having a big problem with my engine (E39 525D car but with an engine 525dts)...Normally i am being told that heater for the engine...are not working properly...so normally I have to switch the car on....(heater light on...then switch off back)..repeat action like 3 times...then start engine (else...engine take long time to switch on...and can cause damage to the starter). Now big problem is that...if the car is on for like 30mins (n the car temperature is now on 50% (half way)..which is normal for the car)....if i switch the engine off....n leave the car for like 10 mins....when i switch it on again...the heater,,,(which have to normally stay on for like around 5-8 seconds to heat.....) is on for like 2 seconds... and i have to hold the key tuned...(in position to start engine) for like 20 seconds for car engine to be on...there is big risk...for it to damage my starter..which cost a fortune...please help guys...any sugessions..
 

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I would say its to do with the fuel system, could well be you HP pump failing (High pressure) or it may even be your fuel pump, but sounds to me to be the HPP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hiii...thanks a lot Marti...but some of my friends are saying that if its the HP Pump Pressure....the car would have other problems such as push dark smoke...take lots of diesel...(which is not the case)....i just want to understand HOW the heater heats, like 6 seconds (heater logo on on the dashboard)...when the car is cool...but heater does not heat (heater light on for only like 1 second on dashboard)...meaning heater is not heating....when the car is not cool (like i just travels for like 1 hour and the car is then put off for like 15mins to 30 mins)...is this not because of any sensor in the car for heat?? please help...btw...how much a HP Pump cos?? (in US $)
 

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Do you get a lot of smoke from the tail pipe on start up and have to crank it over a long time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Again...thanks for the reply Marti....Yes....indeed..when the car is not in cool state (please note am from mauritius and average temperature is like 25 Degrees Celcius)...the car heater is on for only like a ONE second...and when the heater does not heat...I have to crank it (turn the key and hold) for like 10 seconnds and....eventually....the tail pipe pushes lot of smoke when it starts but....it return back to normal once its on....but...when the car is cool....(temperature wiper showing....less than half)...the heater indicator does stay on for like 6 seconds and i can start the car quite quickly...and tail pipe does not lot of smoke.....upon start,,,,,Do you guys think this might be caused only cause of the heater (engine heater)???
 

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Sounds to me like your glow plugs need changing (pre-heaters).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Marti,

Thanks again for the reply...But after lots research, it seems its a hot start problem normally caused by a bad Cam Shaft Sensor or fuel pump...some even saying it might be caused due to a leak upon the fuel injection pump....but the thing is that the car works perfectly when it is on..and starts also with no problem when it is cold...just when you allow the engine on for like 10 mins...which heats the car....the car have big problems to start...i have to crank it a lot...(but just when car uis hot)...I really want to understand whats really wrong before buying something...please help guys....
 

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Hmmm...I'm thinking its the injector pump,the one where all the injector pipes come from,try this, get it up to temp(needle mid on the gauge) turn it off, get a gallon or so of ice cold water and pour it over the pump slowly, with a watering can or similar, then see if it starts up,if it does its the seals in the pump, if not Ill have another think....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Hi Marti

Again thanks for your reply...well..i tried having a look but i could not find the Injection Pump...do i have to remove the black cover to see it?? I also needed to know something else ...i went to a machanic...who tested all glowplugs on my car...and said all were working good (he just tested it using a wire and connected it to another bolt..in the car engine block) he said all heaters were good...so...i wanted to know if all my glowplugs were good...why do i have to heat the car like 3 times for it to start?? (when car is cold....i have to switch on...see heater logo on then off like 4 seconds...then i switch off n switch on again and allow glowplugs to heat again...repeat process normally 3 times then i crank and the car starts if i do it just once...i have to crank a longer...>>he said this problem and the other problem of hot start problem was due to my piston circle are worn out...(USED)...do you guys think this is true?? also he open a squared cover (where we put engine oil...it reads recommends castrol)...and asked me to switch on engine...and when i did so..some oil were splitted out...he said,....this was also caused due to piston circle worn out....is this true?? please help guys...as this might cost very expensive...and finally where to i find that injection pump??
 

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To find the injection pump follow the pipe from the injectors this will lead to the pump, after reading the above I'm now wondering if its the injector seals, which is a ring seal between the injector and head, when these get old they shrink, when you keep cranking over the engine the oil comes up and seals them again which stops a vacuum leak thus allowing the engine to start....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Marti...

I will try that as soon as possible...but do you think that a the Piston Ring inside the engine...might be faulty?? and is the reason why this is happening??
 

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No I dont think its a ring at this point, the only way to find this out would be a compression test though....here's the blurb:

Typically, and generally speaking, black smoke indicates excess fuel cunsumption while oil burning is usually a bluish grey smoke. here are two types of rings on most pistons. Compression and oil rings. Compression rings are easily checked by performing a thorough compression test. Any competent technician would be able to perform a wet/ dry compression test to check for ring condition. Oil rings are more difficult to verify. One simple test is to head down a steep long hill alowing the engine to slow the car, letting off the gas) at the bottom of the hill accelerate and check for a excess "puff" of bluish grey smoke. This is often a good indication of worn oil rings (as opposed to other causes of oil consumption)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok...thanks a lot...i will check this tonight when i get home....in any case the car does not appear to haveany excess fuel consumption...as about the smoke..it only push lot of smoke...when it starts...Upon lots of cranking...
 

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as about the smoke..it only push lot of smoke...when it starts...Upon lots of cranking...
Which is normal if you have to pre heat it 3 times....

When it does start what colour smoke do you get?

Black Smoke
This is due to a air to fuel ratio imbalance, either the fuel system is delivering too much fuel into the engine or there is not enough clean air (oxygen ) a few things to look for :

•Faulty injectors (injectors need attention at about 100.000 to 120 000 miles)
•Faulty injector pump
•Dirty air cleaner
•Turbocharger or intercooler faulty
•Problems within cylinder head, valves clogged up due to faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling unit)

White Smoke
Normally means that the fuel injected into the cylinder is not burning correctly. The smoke will burn your eyes.

•Engine/pump timing out
•Fuel starvation to the pump causing the pumps timing not to operate correctly
•Low engine compression
•Water/petrol in the fuel

Blue Smoke
The engine is burning engine oil

•Worn cylinders or piston rings
•Faulty valves or valve stem seals
•Engine over full with engine oil
•Faulty injector pump/lift pump allowing engine oil to be mixed with the diesel
 

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e39d 3.0 m sport, taking a long time to start

Hi I have e39d m sport 3.0 2002,

when i attempt to start the car it turns over for quite a while before it starts.

other times the engine will keep cranking and finally it stops, so i try again and finally it will fire into life, but then there would be lots of smoke.

The car drives fine, goes like a banshee on to the motorway, ticks over very smoothly.


any ideas?
 

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I have similar probs with my current 1998 525tds and a 530dse i used to own but mine are warm start probs. Starts no probs when cold but when warm can take upto 20+secs, but this is not all the time just some of the time.
Would like to get to the bottom of this prob!! Wobbs
 

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Reduce your guesswork and have your vehicle scanned for faults... IF you have the facilities for it.

IF not, I myself think it is one or more of the glow plugs that went bad. Each dead glow plug will delay your start time enough to cause the smoke that u observe on hard start.

Before you go ghost-hunting, I suggest u try the easy remedies first- Test the glow plugs & replace the defective ones. They are not expensive pieces and should really be part of your maintenance items if you expect reliability in diesel engines.(By your description, the glow plug timer and preheat circuit appears to be in good order.)

To test a glow plug... take it out. and use a 12v battery and heavy gauge wire to see if it actually glows at the tip. Just momentarily, or u will burn it out. TAKE CARE NOT TO BURN YOURSELF! please.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hello everyone here....i think its time to conclude. Well....my car still have that hot start problem...but i did solved it sorta indirectly. Well...just to clear up....if you have a 525tds engine...(NOT 525D, this is a newer version)....you might have problem with starting the car when Hot....its a really common Problem with this 525tds engine..not only in BMW 5 Series but also in range rovers which uses this car.

Solution: Buy a BMW Hot Start fix from ebay. Easy to fix...i will surely help you guys if you want to. I am a financial analyst...don't know anything in engines but with some studies i did it myself...the famous...DIY...hehe...anyway...if any of u need help how to install it...contact me: [email protected] and cc: [email protected]

What devise does: Tell ECU engine is cold even when its hot (JUST FOR 30 Seconds) don't purchase relay that send engine is cold all the time...but one with 30 second timer...easy to fix...engine start like a charm if You have problem ONLY WHEN ENGINE IS HOT!

Hope this helps
 
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