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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

My 1994 E36 318i started to have a problem while driving at High Speeds or High Revs. While drive at freeway speeds my 318i starts to have a miss or hesitation around speeds of 70-90 MPH, this will happened while driving for more than 15 mins or 10 to 20 miles and will continue throughout the drive.
So far I have change the air filter, fuel filter and ran some fuel injector cleaner threw it 3 times or 3 tanks of gas and also installed some new spark plugs and check for vacuum leaks.

I have not replaced my spark plug wires as of yet due to they are NOT $$$ cheap but I did check take them off and give them a good visual and electric resistance check using my DVM (digital volt meter) and my readings were 1= 4358 2= 4587 3= 4175 and 4= 4605 I don’t know if that is good readings or not so any information on this the readings would be great also.

If anyone can shin some light on my trouble any advice or help would be greatly appreciated and if spark plugs are needed which band \ company or sets would be the best to get?

Again thanks for any help or replies on my thread \ [post.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is either spark plugs or coil packs. Most likely spark plugs - replace them with a set of NGK plugs.
I have installed new spark plugs, filter and even big $$$ spark plug wires and still giving me a hesitation/surge at highway speeds.:mad Anyone and I mean can anyone tell me what to check next. :frown::cya
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you checked the coil???? If so, next step is to run a diagnostic and see if any faults pop up.
My Check Engine Light is not on or have not flash the only think I can do now is take it in and have a diagnostic ran but since its intermittent dont know if this would help or they could tell me what is going on or wrong.

One place want to charge $165 that is why I was wishing to get some help here but I appreciate everyone's input.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fuel Pump ????

This is what I just read about fuel pumps I guess this will be my next and last part replacement and hope my prayers are answered. 0:)


Remember, the purpose of a fuel pump is twofold:

It pushes (or pumps) fuel from the gas tank to the fuel injector or carburetor.
It creates the proper amount of pressure (low or high) to ensure that the right amount of fuel will be delivered to the engine, regardless of external conditions.
Therefore, malfunctions in the fuel pump can result from an issue in either one of these processes. Let’s take a look at the common signs of these problems.

1. The Engine Sputters at High Speed
The most common early sign of a problem with a fuel pump comes when driving a vehicle at a consistent high speed. While traveling down the road, the car will run well for about 10 miles and then begin to jerk around, or sputter, for a mile or two before returning to normal.

What This Means
Many people will mistakenly diagnose a sputtering vehicle as one with "dirty" gas or some other fuel-related issue. And while that can be the case, it is not uncommon for a fatigued fuel pump to create this same symptom as it struggles to supply a constant stream of fuel to the engine at the proper pressure. The loss of pressure causes the engine to sputter.

2. Vehicle Loses Power While Accelerating
The feelings generated by this second symptom are very similar to the first. However, rather than experience a sputtering sensation while driving, vehicles will experience it upon acceleration from a stop. Generally, the vehicle will initially move before making noises and jerking around as if it will stall. Then, it will continue on its acceleration path smoothly.

What This Means
The process of acceleration creates an increased demand for fuel by the engine. A malfunctioning fuel pump, again, cannot maintain the required pressure to deliver this fuel in a steady manner, thereby causing the engine to improperly mix fuel and air and lose power. Once pressure is restored, the engine is able to run smoothly and the car takes off.

3. Sudden Loss of Power When the Vehicle Is Under Stress
A car or truck is put under stress when the work needed to complete an ordinary task, such as forward movement, is somehow hindered by external forces. Generally, this occurs when climbing a hill or when hauling a load. If, when completing these tasks, the vehicle loses power, cannot accelerate, or begins to sputter, the fuel pump is a possible culprit.

What This Means
Generally, a fuel pump, even an aging one, can maintain a steady stream of fuel and pressure when operating under normal conditions. However, once put under stress, the weakening elements of the pump will begin to take control and the fuel delivery will not be able to keep up with its demands, leading to power loss.

4. Surging
The opposite effect of the above symptoms, surging, can also be a sign of a malfunctioning fuel pump. A car that surges will be moving along normally at a consistent speed. Then, with no driver intervention, will pick up and "surge" forward, as if the gas pedal had been depressed.

What This Means
This is something that many people will mistakenly blame on the fuel filter since it is not "like" any of the other fuel pump malfunction signs. However, this surge is created because, as a result of age and normal wear and tear, the fuel pump now has irregular resistance within its motor. This creates a situation where the pump cannot draw enough electricity to maintain the pressure needed for steady speeds and may "surge" with a sudden ratcheting up in pressure.

5. The Engine Will Not Start
The final symptom of a malfunctioning fuel pump is also the most severe. Drivers who ignore the signs listed above will all eventually end up here. When a car or truck’s engine will not start as a result of a fuel pump malfunction. Basically, the engine will rev, but it will not catch.

What This Means
When a fuel pump has malfunctioned to the point that the car will no longer start, this means that there is no fuel reaching the engine upon ignition. For that reason, drivers will hear the sparks try to ignite, but there will be no fuel to burn. To diagnose a fuel pump malfunction, check for a blown fuse and pressure in the fuel line (it will be 0).

Conclusion
As an essential element of any internal combustion engine system, the fuel pump is one of those automotive issues all drivers need to keep in mind. Like any aspect of vehicle operation, understanding what a fuel pump does and the different ways that it can fail can help drivers avoid bad situations with a failing car or truck. With the important tasks of delivering fuel to the engine as well as maintaining a consistent stream of pressure while doing so, a malfunctioning fuel pump will present in several ways.

The 5 most common symptoms of a malfunctioning fuel pump include sputtering at high speeds, loss of power during acceleration, loss of power to the vehicle while under stress, surging, and, finally, an engine that will not start. Understanding these symptoms and correctly identifying them early is the only way that drivers can avoid getting to the point where their vehicle will not start, stranding them and costing a lot of money in repairs.
 

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You can run a diagnostic yourself using this procedure Pelican Technical Article: Reading BMW OBD-II Fuel Injection Systems . The theory that a fuel pump fault may be responsible for your problem may fit the symptoms - as does a vacuum leak, bad coil, faulty spark plugs, contaminated gas, bad crank position sensor, but I have found in practice that BMW fuel pumps are generally very reliable. I have owned cars from a 1974 E12 to a 2008 E70 and have never had to replace a fuel pump. The pump is a gas-cooled centrifugal design and is very reliable (I still have 2 x 1982 E21's with their original fuel pumps).
Not all faults will set the check engine light as this only monitors data from the sensors of your engine - a diagnostic using INPA and an ADS interface will however read not only existing fault codes, but also intermittent faults which have stored a code on your car.
If you want to learn more about BMW diagnostics and save yourself some money in the future, hop over to the Diagnostic Software forum of Bimmerforums.com and read on from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can run a diagnostic yourself using this procedure Pelican Technical Article: Reading BMW OBD-II Fuel Injection Systems . The theory that a fuel pump fault may be responsible for your problem may fit the symptoms - as does a vacuum leak, bad coil, faulty spark plugs, contaminated gas, bad crank position sensor, but I have found in practice that BMW fuel pumps are generally very reliable. I have owned cars from a 1974 E12 to a 2008 E70 and have never had to replace a fuel pump. The pump is a gas-cooled centrifugal design and is very reliable (I still have 2 x 1982 E21's with their original fuel pumps).
Not all faults will set the check engine light as this only monitors data from the sensors of your engine - a diagnostic using INPA and an ADS interface will however read not only existing fault codes, but also intermittent faults which have stored a code on your car.
If you want to learn more about BMW diagnostics and save yourself some money in the future, hop over to the Diagnostic Software forum of Bimmerforums.com and read on from there.
Thanks David for infor gream stuff here and the only think am left with to check or replace is the fuel pump or the crankshaft sensor everything else have been replace or checked expect bad gas and dont know if I should chance my spark plugs again because my the wires I had were bad and they where cheap plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well replace the spark plug wires with some Bosch, Running very well expect for the freeway speed sputtering at times only happened intermittently, I have added some redline fuel injector cleaner in the tank and going to run again for a total of 2 tanks.

If this does not clear it up then I guess I will starting looking for a fuel pump and check my crankshaft sensor.:|
 

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Fixed !!!! :)

I hope this may be of help to someone else that my be going threw what I did dealing with this issue, to sum it up I cleaned out my MAS,ICV, new fuel filter and fuel pump my car still was cutting out and not running right.

After some more research and looking up what controls the tach because at 1st my car was starting to act up at freeway speeds with the tach reading @3500 then dropping down to 0 then back to 3500 then it would start to surge or have a slight hesitation and this was due either the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor going out.

So I replace both of them and after 2 hours of labor and about $170 for both sensors the car now back to running like a BMW should and a rocket on the freeway. :bigpimp:
 
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