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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is long and may be slightly complicated, please bear with me!
I am looking for advice into any and all of the points that follow.

I just bought a 2001 325i on 22-3-2010, before i bought it was just an i , but after i started signing the papers he started saying it may be an Xi, because it has something in the front aswell as the rear indicating it is AWD

So far i have driven it home(~150miles),driven to two inspection stations, Failed both times,

First place(Ayers), did a post purchase inspection and also state inspection for a sticker(living in maine, usa)

Post purchase inspection lists the following:
RED asterisked things indicated state inspection items

----TIRES:

- 3 different brands of tyres on vehicle. should be all same brand for all-wheel drive vehicle
- RR TYRE IS AT WEAR BARS*
- SPARE TYRE IS FLAT

---- SUSPENSION & STEERING:

- RIGHT REAR TIRE AT WEAR BARS*

- LT & RT FRONT INNER BALL JOINTS*

- LT FRONT OUTER BALL JOINT*

- BOTH REAR COIL SPRINGS BROKEN *

- FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS WORN*


- LT & RT FRONT AXLES

- POWER STEERING HOSES ARE LEAKING

----- DRIVE TRAIN & TRANS:

- LT FRONT AXLE BOOT TORN AND THERE IS SILICONE OVER THE TEAR*

- TRANSFER CASE MOUNT WORN

- SHIFTER STICKING

---- ENGINE:

- VEHICLE OVERDUE FOR INSPECTION II BY ~3500 MILES AS OF TIME OF POSTING
- WATER PUMP LOOKS ORIGINAL (NOT GOOD)
- AIR INTAKE BOOT IS TORN
- COOLANT EXPANSION TANK IS ORIGINAL
- MASSIVE OIL LEAK FRONT LT CORNER OF ENGINE*(MAYBE OIL FILTER STAND GASKET),
Because of this:
-Drive belts are saturated with oil*
-Both coolant expansion tank hoses are swollen with oil*

- CODE STORED FOR FAULTY THERMAL OIL LEVEL SENSOR
- NEEDS CRANKCASE VENT VALVE UPDATE


----BRAKES:

- FRONT BRAKES PADS ARE NEW, BUT BRAKE ROTORS ARE OLD AND SLIGHTLY RUSTY AND FRONT PAD SENSOR IS BAD ( CAUSING BRAKE WARNING LIGHT ON DASH)*

----BODY MECHANICAL & TRIM:

- WINDSHIELD WASHER NOZZLES AND HOSES ARE MISSING*
- WINDSHIELD WIPERS ARE UNUSABLE AND AFTERMARKET, SO INSERTS CANNOT BE REPLACED*

- HEADLIGHT LENSES ARE FROSTED
(I bought 3M kit that is used with household drill 1200-1600 rpm, have not used it yet)*
- BATTERY NOT VENTED TO OUTSIDE
- CLIPS FOR WOOD TRIM ON LT REAR DOOR BROKEN
- RT FRONT WINDOW IS BINDING, NEEDS WINDOW REGULATOR ( I actually didn't realize they said the the FT RT window, because if any of them seem to be shaky or struggling, it would be the REAR RT window)
- LT REAR WINDOW SWITCH BROKEN
- ENGINE SPLASH SHIELD MISSING
- LT & RT FRONT JACK PADS MISSING
- LT REAR C-PILLAR TRIM MISSING

Listed for FAILED state inspection items on final quote:

- RIGHT REAR TIRE AT WEAR BARS
- LT & RT FRONT INNER BALL JOINTS
- LT FRONT OUTER BALL JOINT
- BOTH REAR COIL SPRINGS BROKEN
- FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
- LT & RT FRONT AXLES
- MASSIVE OIL LEAK FRONT LT CORNER OF ENGINE(MAYBE OIL FILTER STAND GASKET)
- DRIVE BELTS SATURATED WITH OIL
- BOTH COOLANT EXPANSION TANK HOSES SWOLLEN WITH OIL
- HEADLIGHT LENSES ARE FROSTED



The Second place (Kimballs)[VW dealer/service],
listed for FAILED state inspection items:
- LF LOWER BALLJOINT
- 2 REAR COIL SPRINGS
- 1 RR TYRE
- OIL LEAKING FROM UPPER ENGINE AREA


The second place seems much more lenient but is a trusted person with my girlfriends vehicle...


If you have made it down to here i THANK YOU VERY MUCH for reading and please get back to with answers/advice to my problems,

note that being under the 30 day warranty still, it will be getting serviced soon, the dealer (hughesmotors) [NEVER BUY FROM THEM, in methuen, massachusettes] refused the first bill of repair from ayers, then refused the second bill of repair from Kimballs, and said they would take care of the repairs.


Now i don't know what i should expect from this guy.


thank you and any information/links about any of my problems would be GREATLY appreciated.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now its been over a month since i have had this car, and i took it back to the dealer and he said he wasnt going to repurchase it OR repair it!

I am waiting for a coil spring and a balljoint. But i am having idling trouble, and stalling out.
 

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The idling issue could be the leaking inlet boot upsetting the air fuel mix, its a fairly simple repair from what I know.
Is there a consumer protection agency that you can contact about this dodgy dealer, they usually love taking on companies that refuse to honour their obligations to customers.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I started my plan of removing DISA, ICV, throttle body for cleaning, until i was interrupted by rain, so only managed to clean the DISA.


I have a few questions at this point though.




Does the larger hose connecting to the alternator ASSY supposed to have a metal O-clamp? I can wiggle this connector very easily.




How do i remove the Lower intake boot? The Clamp on the smaller hose connecting to the ICV Is upside down(cannot get flat head in), And the Larger clamp is also out of reach with a flat head.



Now back to the DISA valve, i had cleaned off the flap, but is it supposed to make a clicking noise when the flap moves past 3/4 closed? The flap moves with minimal resistance and pops back in place fast.
What if i were to Remove the top section of the ASSY, labeled noise?

 
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