Sorry to see that, hope the fix is painless!
Bummer
I got my 2000 323i last Saturday and have enjoyed the nice ride in it. After work this Friday I was looking forward to a pleasant drive home. Turning the key the engine turned but did not fire up. Any suggestions.I finally called AAA and they towed (on a flatbed) to Little Germany here in Tucson. The mechanic in the shop told me one should hear the fuel-pump
when turning the key and said the pump probably has to be replaced. Now I have to wait until Monday because they were just closing up. What a BUMMER. I also have to replace the OAT (see other thread).
when turning the key and said the pump probably has to be replaced. Now I have to wait until Monday because they were just closing up. What a BUMMER. I also have to replace the OAT (see other thread).
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The fuel pump is a common issue not only with bimmers. What are the main reasons for making this to happen?
Sure, happened to me in a Volvo and one of the two pumps in my Ford F150 also failed.
...running your car constantly on low or on Reserve.The fuel pump is a common issue not only with bimmers. What are the main reasons for making this to happen?
notice that the pump is made up of a small motor that drives the pump; and the motor runs on (composite) plastic bearings. the bearings somehow rely on gasoline(fluid) for lubrication.
Deprive them of lubrication(the gasoline in your tank) and it's just a matter of time before the pump goes bad .
Excellent answer! Thanks once again, darkhorse....running your car constantly on low or on Reserve.
notice that the pump is made up of a small motor that drives the pump; and the motor runs on (composite) plastic bearings. the bearings somehow rely on gasoline(fluid) for lubrication.
Deprive them of lubrication(the gasoline in your tank) and it's just a matter of time before the pump goes bad .
Arco gas out here in Cali will destroy gas tanks and fuel pumps. I only run top grade fuel in my cars because of the better additives and lower general maintainance costs over the life of the vehicle.
It was not the fuel-pump, but a blown fuse related to the power for ENGINE ELECTRONICS. It was located in the engine compartment in a box on the drivers side next to the fire-wall. Problem remains: Why did it blow?? Bill was $200. Seems steep for a fuse but it was not easy to find the problem so I have to bite the bullet.
I now know there are a lot of fuses. Anyone having similar problem??
I now know there are a lot of fuses. Anyone having similar problem??
It may have just been a one-time occurrence. In that case, it is all good -- that is what you want your fuses there for in the first place.
Which fuse blew? This will help us give you some ideas as to why it went out.
Which fuse blew? This will help us give you some ideas as to why it went out.
My Chilton repair manual #18401 refers to the box I mention in post#3 above as the E-box and picture 3.3b on page 12-6 indicates the location of the Engine electronics fuse pack by arrow #2. A 20 amp fuse blew there. Why is the big question?
There is a list on a site called Top Tier Gasoline of the stations that are called "Top Tier" It's more about using those stations gas then it is about the fuel grade. You should buy whatever type of gas your owners manual calls for. This was recommended to me by some mechanics.Arco gas out here in Cali will destroy gas tanks and fuel pumps. I only run top grade fuel in my cars because of the better additives and lower general maintainance costs over the life of the vehicle.
QuikTrip
Chevron
Texaco
MFA Oil Co.
Conoco
Phillips 66
76
Entec Stations
Shell
The Somerset Refinery, Inc.
Kwik Trip / Kwik Star
Aloha Petroleum
Tri-Par Oil Co.
Turkey Hill Minit Markets
Mileage Stations
Road Ranger
Chevron Canada
Shell Canada
Petro-Canada
Sunoco Canada
The only 20 A fuse in the E-box, fuse #3, protects the following circuits:
1. A/C compressor clutch relay
2. camshaft position sensors
3. crankshaft position sensor
4. DME main relay
5. fuel pump relay
6. leakage diagnosis pump (fuel tank)
7. mass air flow sensor
8. secondary air injection pump relay
9. thermostat
So it could be a fuel pump on its way out. I really don't think any of 1 - 4, 7, or 9 is to blame. You would have noticed something earlier. I don't know what 6 and 8 do, but guess they are suspects as well.
Did you notice anything strange that could be related to any of these systems before the fuse blew? Anything strange still going on? Is your CEL on, or has it come on recently?
1. A/C compressor clutch relay
2. camshaft position sensors
3. crankshaft position sensor
4. DME main relay
5. fuel pump relay
6. leakage diagnosis pump (fuel tank)
7. mass air flow sensor
8. secondary air injection pump relay
9. thermostat
So it could be a fuel pump on its way out. I really don't think any of 1 - 4, 7, or 9 is to blame. You would have noticed something earlier. I don't know what 6 and 8 do, but guess they are suspects as well.
Did you notice anything strange that could be related to any of these systems before the fuse blew? Anything strange still going on? Is your CEL on, or has it come on recently?
Thank you DRZ. Before this happened my CHECK ENGINE SOON was on and would come back after being turned off several times. The BMW diagnosis showed:
246-F6 Flow rate secondary air system too low. bank 2
245-F5 Flow rate secondary air system too low. bank 1
126-7E solenoid valve tank leak diagnosis pump, activation.
In addition, the OAT is missing (as well as both splash-guards) and -40F is shown.
The mechanic thought the missing OAT could cause the check engine light to go on.
But now after the fuse is replaced the light is OFF. Maybe the fuse was bad and finally blew???? I appreciate any more comments and/or suggestions.
246-F6 Flow rate secondary air system too low. bank 2
245-F5 Flow rate secondary air system too low. bank 1
126-7E solenoid valve tank leak diagnosis pump, activation.
In addition, the OAT is missing (as well as both splash-guards) and -40F is shown.
The mechanic thought the missing OAT could cause the check engine light to go on.
But now after the fuse is replaced the light is OFF. Maybe the fuse was bad and finally blew???? I appreciate any more comments and/or suggestions.
Hmmm. Is seems like we are on teh right track. Fuses don't generally just go bad. They aren't really wear and tear items. The best course of action is the one you are taking: diagnosing the problem that led to the fuse blowing.
I don't think the outside air temperature sensor has anything to do with the SES light In general the only thing it tends to affect is the reading on the OBC (at least that is how I know it to operate on earlier cars).
The codes you pulled seem to point to two of the issues listed in my last post:
- leakage diagnosis pump (fuel tank)
- secondary air injection pump relay
I don't know much about these systems.I'll check my Bentley manual to see what I can find out. Keep in mind that the fuel pump itself is still not exonerated.
I think that if you can check all three systems and they all check out fine then you should be okay. Maybe you had some sort of a surge at some point and that is why the fuse went out. If you find anything hat may need replacement/repair, then I think you will have found your culprit.
I don't think the outside air temperature sensor has anything to do with the SES light In general the only thing it tends to affect is the reading on the OBC (at least that is how I know it to operate on earlier cars).
The codes you pulled seem to point to two of the issues listed in my last post:
- leakage diagnosis pump (fuel tank)
- secondary air injection pump relay
I don't know much about these systems.I'll check my Bentley manual to see what I can find out. Keep in mind that the fuel pump itself is still not exonerated.
I think that if you can check all three systems and they all check out fine then you should be okay. Maybe you had some sort of a surge at some point and that is why the fuse went out. If you find anything hat may need replacement/repair, then I think you will have found your culprit.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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