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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys / gals ,
I've been browsing this forum for some time but never posted because I've just had so many problems with my 2000 328ci that I've owned from new and I hate to think about the money and time I've wasted on this P.O.S. over the last years ,anywhooo ,sods law dictates that my rear brakes would reach wear limit on the way for inspection !! ,I've put new pads in but really don't want to go to dealer to clear the dash light ,is there any way for it to be done thru the onboard diagnostics ??
 

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no the brake wear light is dictated by a sensor on the brakes. once it reaches that point, the sensor trips the light, once the brake pads have been replaced the light should automatically go out.
is your light still on? or was it ever on?

also dont be shy post up your problems , were here to help you know.

and welcome
 

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When your brake light sensor lights up i would replace the pads and the sensor. the sensor cables are not expensive 15 to 20 dollars there is one in front and one in back. As for your light still on try turning your key were all the warning lights are on do not start car. leave on 1 minute or more than turn off then start car this has worked for some people. I have read it will eventually go off with normal driving. also check your cable connections... :driving if you hate your car so much sell it. :idea2 Most people in these forums like the cars they have even with problems arising. These cars are not perfect no car is.
 

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After replacing the pads and sensors, put the key in the ignition and turn to position 2 and leave on for 10-15 seconds. The brake lining wear indicator light will go off. That's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well ,I guess I don't hate the car ,just the issues I've had with it ,ie.

A/C discharged into cabin 4 times (twice at highway speed!)
Car overheated and left me stranded three times
Door locks have a mind of their own and I have had to climb out of window on several occaisions
Broken rear shock mounts
Faulty VANOS system
Sunroof switch rarely works right
Faulty seatbelt retractor
Blown rear diff
Driveline hum
Faulty front pad wear sensor = new rotors
Lumpy idle and stalling in cold weather
Interior rattles
5th gear shifter gate sticks in cold weather (started 1000 miles after warranty expired!)
I tried to return it under the "lemon" law over the a/c issue but the BMW dealer gave me a compensation package to keep it....
So ,other than that I like the car ,oh BTW ,BMW NA could give two shits about backing their crappy German technology ,I can safely say that next month I shall be shopping for a Lexus ,Benz or Infinity ,no more Beemers in my garage anytime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by EXtech@Feb 4 2004, 11:23 PM
After replacing the pads and sensors, put the key in the ignition and turn to position 2 and leave on for 10-15 seconds. The brake lining wear indicator light will go off. That's it.
DING ,DING ,DING

We have a winner..... Thanks EXtech :thumbs

Oh and I really do like the car ,that's why I hate it so much because I always planned on an M3 or 540 next and now I just can't bear the thought of going through this again
FYI 2000 328ci ,premium package ,MT....grey on silver.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ah crap ! ,wear light just came back on exactly 24hrs after I cleared it and now it's staying on .Anymore suggestions ??
 

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Hmmmm. Are the rear brakes worn to the sensors? or did you replace pads all around? Did you replace the sensors? Maybe the sensor is not securely set in the pad or inserted correctly. That's about the only possibilities.
 

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and btw, sorry you've had so many problems with your bimmer. Unfortunately it does happen that you run into cars like yours. It happens with all car lines and models. You were just the unlucky victim. I know this sounds sacriligeous but I'm seriously considering purchasing an Infiniti G35 coupe. Those cars are sweet. If you go anti-bimmer, buy a G35 !!
 

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wow, i hardly knwo any people with e46's who have many problems. in fact BM<W's r currently one of the top dealers in which your car has the least defects coming from the factory. i beleiev eit placed right behind porsche in 8th place (lexus was #1 and far aahead of the pack)

I have way more problems. mroe than i ever feel liek typing! but thats what you get when you are runnign an old e34, electrical problems seem the weak points of older BMW's
 

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Getting a crappy car happens.

I was comparing notes with my eye doctor the other day. He has a '00 328ci too. He laughed when he said "I complain to my family and friends and they don't understand why I don't sell the car! But with other BMW owners like you, I get to get it off my chest to someone who understands..."

Course, I haven't had nearly the problems he had with his car. I told him "yeah, you were the guinea pig. My car (an '01) doesn't near the problems you've had" Though to be fair, some the problems he's had, I've had also.
 

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I also own a 2000 328ci, and have had some minor problems with it. My locks also seem to be a little random, and i've recently had problems with the stalling in cold weather.

This brings me to my question, do all of you guys with e46's have problems with stalling in cold weather? It only happened once to me, but it sucked. What happened was I was in a parking lot to meet a friend, and i turned my car off and had to turn it on right away cuz we had to go meet another guy. The temp. was like 5 degrees F with a nasty wind chill. Anyhoo, I got it started and it stalled out right away, the rpms just dropped right to zero and it stalled. After a few more tries of me trying to keep the idle up by giving it some gas, I finally got it moving, but it would stall when i put the clutch in. After I finally got out of the parking lot, it felt like my car had lost power from the ordeal, like a cylinder was out or something. It felt like I was driving a 4 cylinder. This continued for the rest of the night, but the next day it ran fine. Even before this happened my rpms would drop below normal idle and rev right back up again in cold weather, like it "saved" itself from stalling.

So, is there anything I can do to help prevent this for next time, or is that just they way it is? The beamer I had before this ('92 318cic) did the same thing only it would do it whenever the temp. dropped below say 25 degrees.

Anyways, sorry for the rambling, but some help, a fix, related stories, or sympathy would help. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by DrewHaHa328ci@Feb 6 2004, 01:32 AM
I also own a 2000 328ci, and have had some minor problems with it. My locks also seem to be a little random, and i've recently had problems with the stalling in cold weather.


So, is there anything I can do to help prevent this for next time, or is that just they way it is?
I complained about the stalling that got progressively worse for a year without the dealer being able to correct it ,eventually they changed the VANOS unit and it's helped a lot although is does still stumble now and again
BTW 2 friends have the 745IL and they are having a lot of problems with them ,to many computers in these damn cars . Saw a new 5 series today ,me like....BUT like I said ,I'm going Acura or Lexus (or maybe G35 or new Maxima)or Benz next week......no propeller emblems in my garage for a while.
 

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Originally posted by IHATEMY328CI+Feb 6 2004, 07:38 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (IHATEMY328CI @ Feb 6 2004, 07:38 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-DrewHaHa328ci@Feb 6 2004, 01:32 AM
I also own a 2000 328ci, and have had some minor problems with it. My locks also seem to be a little random, and i've recently had problems with the stalling in cold weather.


So, is there anything I can do to help prevent this for next time, or is that just they way it is?
I complained about the stalling that got progressively worse for a year without the dealer being able to correct it ,eventually they changed the VANOS unit and it's helped a lot although is does still stumble now and again
BTW 2 friends have the 745IL and they are having a lot of problems with them ,to many computers in these damn cars . Saw a new 5 series today ,me like....BUT like I said ,I'm going Acura or Lexus (or maybe G35 or new Maxima)or Benz next week......no propeller emblems in my garage for a while. [/b][/quote]
I bet you have a camshaft sensor that is on the fritz. There was also at one time a service bulletin for a DME reprogramming. I cannot believe your stumbling/stalling issue hasn't been resolved.
 

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Hello everyone,
New to the forum. Been a lurker for a few days, decided that I needed to introduce myself and ask a question. I had recently just replaced all four brake pads on my 2002 325Ci but not the sensors. My brake light is still on even after turning the ignition to the "on" position well past 15 seconds (did not start the car)recommended by someone on this board to reset the light. I guess I have to replace the two sensors as well for the reset to work correctly? Thanks.


Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Originally posted by EXtech@Feb 6 2004, 08:07 PM
I bet you have a camshaft sensor that is on the fritz. There was also at one time a service bulletin for a DME reprogramming. I cannot believe your stumbling/stalling issue hasn't been resolved.
Honestly ,I think the dealer has written some dodgy warranty R.O.'s on my car to recover the cost of paying me to keep it ,payments ,upgrades etc. They say they replaced the complete VANOS unit ,they had the whole top end open ,this I do know and like I said ,the idle is much better and the car is more responsive thru the rpm's .I never posted here because I know these problems are not "typical" of a beemer but I still won't get another any time soon.....

on another subject ,someone posted about female beemer drivers...
My wife = 5'8" ,blonde ,115lbs ,hot ,will race anything except z06's and wrx sti's (I warned her about them!) in our 328ci stick shift ,yea it is sexy when I pull up next to her on my ninja zx9 and she wants to go... :thumbs
 

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hey Joeblow, yeah you do need to replace the sensors also. You also need to make sure of a secure connection and that the sensor is in the pad correctly.
 
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