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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All teh little things wrong w/ my 740il.
Driver window still wont go all the way up.( I have to manually lift it closed )
Freon went empty last summer. ( What kind of freon does it take?)
CD shows disk error...bummer
Strike plate on driver side back door fubard, have duct tape on it so door will stay closed, dont open it!!
Brake light 1 still BING!!!!
Coolant leaks occasionally
CEL light comes and goes especially on cold wet days and runs like crap, then runs like a scalded dog when it goes out.
Have NO extra income to get these minor things fixed.
Having said all that, I still LOVE the freakin car!!! With 187K miles,it hauls arse, cruises down the highway at 80, 90 0r 100+ with ease. Still looks great inside and out and has plenty of room for my big ass. Everytime I think about selling it, she draws me back. No point to this, just saying...
 

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42, The meaning of life
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It sounds like the woman you can't stand to be with, or without. What ever you do your going to feel the pain.
 

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Ich bin der Modifikator
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Baby steps........fix one thing at a time! She will love you back!



jb :)
 

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Yup. Tackle one at a time. Start with the cheapest/easiest so that you can enjoy the success earlier. In any case, I understand what it is like to have car issues, yet being unable to part with the car. Since it is all minor, and you are well aware of it all, I wouldn't worry much. Enjoy the ride!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just paid $20 for chf 11-s.
Recently started leaking coolant.
Weather too crappy to check the pressure release valve thingy on tank.
At least I can read the $80 Bentley Repair book I've barely cracked and set some goals.
Probably need to stop chasing down arseholes in Camaros while I'm at it.
 

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Welcome to my world buddy my 1990 735il dropped a water pump and a distributor cap last week and now im losing a rear wheel bearing. The window sounds like its getting caught in the weatherstripping track that it runs in mines doing the same but i just lift the damn thing up for now or possibly could be some burnt out brushes on your window motor. put some freon stop leak in it and change it over to the new style freon (trust me it makes it so much easier) that fixed my leak as well. Not sure about the cd player considering mine only features cassette however being a guy that designs and builds custom computers i feel like you should try yanking the battery cables off and letting it sit overnight without power (20 minutes is only necessary however overnight will ensure that you can cancel this option out) this will reset the ecu which is the internal computer system and may be your solution. Strike plate sounds like it needs some weld or drill and bolt tlc. Brake light issues can be solved two ways check fuses and relays under hood and rear drivers side seat if you see any burnt out fuses or burnt connections on the relays then replace them. If that isnt the case then check out your contacts on the bulb holsters that pop out of the taillight in the trunk there are two of them that contact a metal plate which gives it ground and power if they are burnt looking then take a piece of sand paper to the contacts and clean them up also bend the contacts forward top ensure proper contact with the metal plate. Also check for any moisture which will short the bulbs out and of course check your bulbs and check to see if they are the right kind of bulb Really you need a volt meter to deal with this issue however it can be solved without one it just takes longer. My coolant used to leak too I used stop leak to fix mine for a while until my water pump bearing blew out and i had to replace it. While replacing it i looked for the water pump gasket-seal and noticed that there was just powder left as remains. Check the water pump seal too. You dont have to remove it just look where the too metals meet and see if there is still rubber there. My CEL light came on when my distributor cap played out. Pull it of and inspect it and see if any moisture is getting in there trust me this is what it sounds like with cold and wet mine did the same shit. also inspect the rotor button and see how badly it is arced up. Moisture inside the cap will caue it to jump plug firing order and can really f some stuff up.
Let me know how it goes man. I have more answers if you need them. If you need parts and bmw is trying to rape you on them check out Autohausaz.com they are in arizona and take a while to ship but they have already saved me several thousand dollars.
Beamers4life
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My main concern is the coolant leak. There is possibly some air in the system, but I have no clue how to get to the pressure release valve. I know it is in there somewhere.
I have the Bentley manual but the weather is too crappy to deal right now. I hate to add any "stop leak" if a pressure release will solve this issue. All things being equel, I don't really miss A/C, it stops the wife from driving it!!! I will DEFFO do the battery cable removal and overnight ECU fix for the "Disk Error" ( fingers crossed). I'll keep plugging away. Thanks!!
 

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Glad to help and as for a pressure release there should be a bleed valve on the top of the thermostat cavity which is near the waterpump. Its a little thumbscrew which might be slightly tighter than hand tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll give it a look see. Recently the coolant has been leaking more than it normally leaks.
I now have some steam coming from back of engine near fire wall. Hose or connection leaking onto exhaust pipes? If it's heater core I'm selling it back to brother in law and driving the 3/4 ton custom van. I can't afford to be w/ out a vehicle, I can't afford to have someone else do it. I have VERY BASIC mechanical skills and just above basic tools.
 

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Help from over the pond
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice...Other than getting her up in the air a bit, I don't reckon there is a way to tell from top side which one could be leaking?
I have replaced the Auxilliary Water Pump. All those hoses and connectors are ok.
 

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Geez amd I thought North American stuff had problems. Like people are saying 1 thing at a time:)
 

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yeah definitely check the coolant hoses then i cant tell you how many times i have had to either replace or cut off the end of the hose and slide it back up on the fitting. These hoses have a bad problem of dry rotting especially near the connectors. I had the same problem with a leak behind trhe motor. Check the hose that hooks to the bottom of the coolant resevoir which is located right in front of the firewall in the middle and runs in front of the starter(under the intake). I have had to cut of ends of this hose many times due to dry rotting. Do not cut off too much because the hose is quite expensive to replace and you should not have to get the car up in the air for this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, sorry I did not get back sooner. I will check this weekend as it is supposed to be remotely sunny.

So here is one more "little thing" that started Yesterday morning.
Turned the key and engine did not turn over. All power was working fine.
After the third turn it cranked right up.
I went to start this morning and the same thing. Turn the key to start and nothing.
It took 5 times to get it to crank.
There was no drag or clicking like you get from a weak battery.
Just a note, I REALLY APPRECIATE THE INPUT AND RESPONSES, It is difficult to check when I get home as it is dark, the past weekends have been rainy and or snowy. Plus my van got stolen and the wife and I are carpooling so I can't go check at lunch. Once again thanks "teh werkz" family!!!!:rule
 

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Help from over the pond
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It may be your ignition switch playing up, not where you put the key in, its situated behind the barrel, to get to it you need to remove the steering column cowling.The contacts get dirty/worn/sticky, some switches you can take apart and clean/lubricate some you cant....
 

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42, The meaning of life
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Its not good when anything get stolen, but it sounds like you are being "got at" by the car gods. Good luck with it all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks for teh sympathy^^ Brettski

Marti5,
I'll take a look.
Battery was not strong enough to crank her up this morning and wont if she sits more than two days w/ out cranking. As I'm down to one vehicle these "little things" are becomming worrysome...
 

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Help from over the pond
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Sounds like you need a new battery, these beasts command a lot of power from the battery and if you are low on battery power loads of things start playing up on these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You are not giving me much encouragement on keeping me 740. My battery is only 7 months old and at $80 US a piece it should last much longer than that. On a previous thread I inquired as to what might be draining my battery and I tried all the suspects to no avail. Don't get me wrong, I love my car but I already have two women in my life that come before ANY vehicle. ( wife and daughter, and a son to boot)... I wish I could put the 740 on a boat to Merry old UK and have you give her a going over.
 

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Help from over the pond
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Give the battery a 24 hr charge with the leads disconnected from the car.
 
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