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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there - I own a 325i 1994 model right hand drive bmw. I got this problem, car started fine, pulled it out. Got back in, engine turns, no firing up. Read a couple of forums, checked and listened if i can hear the fuel pump kicking in on turning ignition, no sound can be heard. Checked the fuse box in engine, fuse is fine, checked and listened for relay clicking, all seems well. I would like to remove the fuel pump and put 12v directly onto it...does anyone know where its located? Some vechiles mostly 5 and 7 series seems to be in the trunk, only battery is there and spare wheel. Help please, am i on the right track here, got a quote for a new pump in the meantime, R 4570.00 Thanks - awaiting to hear from you. :)
 

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Have you removed the back seat and looked (carefully) through an inspection port on the fuel tank? Personally, I'd only have a qualified tech remove it and test it if you find it there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Removed the back seat, only a bunch of wire was found in the one corner, suppose it's for the tail lights and all. Will take pictures tomorrow and post it. It's not perhaps located behind the back wheel where the tank should be, i think its a E30 Series or E36 Dolphin shape bmw. Help.
 

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If its anything like the 318is, it will be under the rear seat. There should be a small patch looking thing, the same color as the surrounding. Four screws holding it in place, unscrew them and the top of the tank where the sending unit is located.

Before you go doing that why don't you pressure test the fuel rail. Have it hooked up, turn the key on should be around 35-45psi and should get up there real fast. If pressure then un hook the coil so the car won't get spark, crank the motor and watch the guage. If I do recall correctly it should drop, but not more than like 5 psi.

Havn't done this in a while so don't quote me on it.
If I missed any steps, let him know what one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Found the pump under the rear seat

:eek:hnoes Hey, i found the pump under the rear seat, it was there all along covered with black foam/rubbery carpet thingy mbob..LOL, removed the cap enclosure, got 2 sepate plugs going onto the pump.

(A:) 1 plug connector is white with Yellow wire and a Brown wire...it has a number on the side 1378400. I found that the white plug carries 12v when the ignition is turned only once to position 1, thats when the radio comes on.

(B:) Then the other plug is black, it has a purple/green and brown wire...a bit thicker than the white plug/connector cables..it also has a number on the side 1378400...this only received 12volts when the engine is turning.

Is this normal? The reason me asking is...shouldn't (B:) be receiving power when the ignition is turned to option 3 i think? What im trying to say it before the engine turns on ignition position 3, one should hear the pump priming. Im only getting power for priming once the engine is turning instead of on ignition setting 3. Anyway, english is my second language please excuse if my sentence is confusing...

Does anybody now what the left cap under the rear seat is for, there is also two thin wires running into that cap, can it be the fuel gage thingy?
 

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hey not sure if youve fixed it yet or not. but the pelican tech article is really good just follow that. There are 2 caps under the seat, both have sending units to the fuel gauge and the driver side one has the pump too.

I did it to my 94 325i last summer...saw power like you did and sure enough it was the pump. My advice: siphon as much fuel out as you can, and work outside or in a well ventilated area. I took a plastic bag and covered up the cap while i was working on the pump to limit the fumes from the tank. be careful with the whole assembly when it comes out...its just plastic and the pump is metal. Also try to keep the area clean as possible.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Kylek 325i, thanks for clearing out those other plugs for me, I had a suspision it was for the fuel gage.

I've tested the fuel pump by applying 12v directly from the battery tot the pump, i can hear the pump running but it doesn't sound like it use to...like when the pump was priming..don't know anymore. :help

I think i should remove the hose clamps and pipes and apply power then to see if fuel actually pumps...but ive postponed that due to not having replacements clamps...will check tomorrow and give feedback.

Just strange...like i said...when i apply power directly from battery to pump, i can hear it...but then it should pump fuel and prime when i turn the ignition on and all the dash lights come on...it aint happening..

Any other advice...keep it coming...feedback from Kyle would be appreciated again..thanks. :rule
 

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pump is bound to go out anytime now if it hasn't already. So is the relay. Their life/duty cycle times are about up. (Electrical parts don't last forever. For that matter neither does plastic or rubber.) Replacing them both with new components now will not only buy another 10 years of trouble-free operation, but will eliminate them as possible suspects when the next set of problems crop up, as they inevitably will on a car of this age.
 

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I have a 1994 325is. I know my fuel pump is working because the car runs, matter of fact it's running way too fast. The idle is surging up to 3000 rpm. I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. Pump pressure is supposed to be just under fifty psi gauge(tested on fuel rail, with gauge)and not drop .5 bar after 20 minutes, for an M50 like mine. When you disconnect the small vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, the book says the pressure should increase. I wonder if the rpms go up. The book dosen't clarify this. Does yours? I'm trying the smaller hose on the front side of the valve cover, the one connected to the part (fuel pressure regulator, I assume) inside the valve cover. Post when your done with the fuel pump replacement. Sounds like your on the right track.
 

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The E36 fuel tank has 2 lobes, this is to accomodate the propeller shaft. It also has two fuel guage sending units, the ECU takes an average of both readings and gives that as fuel level. the right side houses the pump and sending unit.

You should be able to test the resistivity of the pump motor, not sure of the values now. Also if you are changing the fuel pump, it would be a good idea to change the filter attatched to it(black net bag) or simply blast it with carburretor cleaner. You should see dirt wash off. If fuel quality is anything like it is in Nigeria, you should do that.

Whats the latest news Spook?
 

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Does your fuel rail have a cap same as a tyre-valve? If it does then open it and purge the air-lock until fuel spills... Fixed my pressure issue immediately !!!
 
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