BMW Werkz banner

Restore Your Scratched Up BMW Dash Console to Factory New for only $6! Pictorial DIY

16K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  nelsonjmbf 
#1 · (Edited)
So after my last retrofit project of installing the DCT Sport Shifter, I found that the new knob made the rest of my console look extra old and worn. My console cubby doors had the usual BMW rubber coating peeling and scuff marks from years of use.
So I went online and found that these things are about $50 (used on ebay) to $150 (brand new at BMW dealership) to replace.

I also came across many DIYs that showed folks using black spray paint on the doors and a few showing the scrubbing off of the worn out rubber coating completely to reveal the bare plastic underneath. I also saw other suggestions for plasti-dip and a DIY for using plasti-dip on the cupholders/armrest.

So long story short I became interested and got a can of Plasti-Dip at my local Home Depot for $5.98 (the paint/home/hardware sections at your local Kmart, Walmart, Target, Sears, etc... will have this or else go find it at Autozone, Pepboys, or any good Hardware store ) and I proceeded to do this DIY.



So far the Black color is the only color that Plasti-Dip seems to come in and I do wish they had BMW hellbeige/tan, or even gray for our non-black cupholders center armrest console sections.

This DIY is easy and the results are astonishing and makes you wonder why people buy these trim pieces out of Salvage Cars for tons of money to replace their worn ones when just a $6 can of Plasti-dip will make the trim new again.





The only tools I used were a razor blade and scotch tape that I found around my apartment. Screw driver and a T10 will aslo be needed to remove the trim pieces. I also used fine 150 grit sand paper on my steptronic plate trim, but found it was not necessary if your trim isn't super pitted and/or you are using more than 2 coats.

The most important tool will be your patience. Plasti-Dip takes a long time to dry-even when it feels dry to the touch-it will be moist and soft for up to 4-5 hours after the last coat goes on and your final coat will easily scratch and scuff if you rush to put it back in your car.

Also waiting 30 full minutes or more between coats is highly recommended. Don't ask me how I learned all this but I learned it the hard way.

Said and done, if you do mess up and the coating comes out wrong you can easily peel the coat right off and start over again. Plasti-Dip isn't super permanent like paint but more like liquid rubber.

Start by removing your console trim and gear plate. This is basic 101 DIY but the pictures below should prevent you from running into any surprises.

NOTE: If the pictures don't all load here is the link to the album:
ImageShack Album - 39 images



















 
See less See more
13
#5 ·
Thanks buddy.

Nice job. What grain of sanding paper is adequate in removing the old coating?
I used fine 150 grain to lightly sand it down. But if you want to completely scrub all the old rubber away get a heavier than 150 grain.

I like how you didn't even bother stripping the original crumbling coating, you just painted over it
lol.:craig:
I din't have time for all that. after I did the step plate and started sanding that trim I realized that sanding to smooth out the lumps was a long tedious process relative to the spraying part of the DIY so I could'nt imagine the time I would have put into sanding off all the old rubber coating on the door.

Also I realize if you are using more than 3-4 coats it just covers over any rough spots.

The important thing is to make sure you are spraying a clean/oil free surface!

Actually Neil I think one of your old pictures or posts may have inspired me to do this. Wasn't it you that used Plasti-Dip or black paint on something or the other? I'm pretty sure but if so, much props to you man. :thumbsup:

One last thing for everyone. Plasti-Dip is NOT Paint. Don't go into this thinking you are repainting the trim. You are in fact just coating it over with a rubberized liquid. Think of chocolate covered starwberries.

 
#10 · (Edited)
Yeah my E36 (rip) had much better quality interior plastic than the E46.
Every surface in the e46 literally wears away because BMW used some sort of soft rubber coating on the surfaces in the E46. So after 4 -5 years it begins peeling away like dried glue.

I hear the 2010 E90 lci are even more horrible since BMW downgraded all the standard parts of the 3 series starting in models built from 9/09.

One guy on e90post who went from E30 to E36 to E46 to a 2007 330i and now 2010 335i said it was the worse interior built quality BMW he has ever sat inside.
BMW took away the seat back nets, the glove box flash light and power outlet, the ashtrays/console pockets lost their lids, the hood lid lost the soft sound proofing lining, the seats come with less cushion stuffed in them and the headrests don't move up/down...etc...
considering his new BMW 335i cost $50,000+
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top