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5K views 27 replies 7 participants last post by  Snowjob 
#1 ·
I really have tried to figure this out from reading older posts, but I'm still confused. Maybe someone can help me out..

I just got a new (used) car from a guy that's been taking care of it, waxing, etc. It's a 2001 black civic with a dark grey interior, so the dirt shows up quick. what can I do to take care of the car?

For now, I'd like to minimize the amount of work. My dad wants to start taking better care of his new car (Mazda 3) so he'll pay for this cleaning stuff, unless I tell him I'm buying something way too complicated (i.e. tire shine or whatever).

On the outside, what do I use to wash? I have some big sponge that I've been using along with dishwashing soap, and then rinsing down and letting air dry. As you can imagine this leaves some spots. First, can someone give me a link to a place where I can buy a good sponge (and preferably everything else as well) to use while washing? What sort of soap should I be using? How should I dry the car?

After this, I imagine I should wax it. How do I do this? I've never waxed a car or seen it done. How long will the wax last? Do I need to "clay bar" the car? If so, does that literally entail rubbing clay against the paint? Does one wash the car after waxing?

Sorry for such stupid questions.
 
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#2 ·
First off ... You shouldn't be using a sponge to wash your cars (can hold dirt that can scratch your paint). Use a sheepskin mitt whenever possible (rinse before and after you wash your car & occasionally while you are washing).

Next, leave the dishwashing soap in the kitchen! Use Meuigar's or another car washing brand.

As far as the wax ... I have purchased some Zaino products. I have yet to use them on my car, but I have seen the results on my friends' cars and it works great.

Other folks on this board may use other products that work great for them as well.

Also, keep reading through more posts in this forum, there are a lot of great washing suggestions/instructions to help you get your car looking its best!

Good Luck!
~J
 
#4 ·
Local autoparts store will have everything you need. Get a couple good microfiber towels for waxing and drying too.

I recomend the klasse products, but I've never seen them for sale in a store and they're hard to find online.
 
#5 ·
i've found a lot of good advice on this website and autopia.. autopia seems to conveniently recommend all of the products on sale on its site, however.

does the car "shampoo" (soap, right?) matter? I understand I need a (sheepskin) mitt, and towels to dry. Does a squegee work as well as autopia says, or are they just trying to sell products?

as for waxing.. I've noticed that there are liquid and paste waxes. Why would one purchase one over the other? How do I apply these waxes.. I haven't seen any "kits" that sell soem sort of applicator..?
 
#6 ·
Yeah carwash shampoo matters, dishsoap strips the wax and can leave harmful residue on your paint.

The california water blade works great, then you can use a towel to hit up the tights spots and anywhere else you missed.

Paste or liquid is really your preference. I like the paste stuff cause it hazes better and you can see where you put it easier. But the downside is if you let it sit more than like 30 mins it's very hard to rub it off. Most pastes have an aplicator pad in the jar of wax. If not, but some foam aplicator pads from the local autoparts store.

This reminds me, I've got to wax my car.
 
#7 ·
if i get a squegee, while one towel be enough to dry the entire car?

i read on autopia that several applicators are required for waxing, yet waxes come with just one?

lastly, is the pre-wax polishing that's described on autopia really necessary, or can I go straight from washing-drying to waxing?

thanks
 
#8 ·
1 towel will be good plus squegee. But you'll need another towel for buffing off the wax. You can just use bath towels. My personal favorites are the days inn towels, we got a couple running around here, wonder where those came from :drunk

You'll only need one aplicator pad for waxing if you keep it nice if you drop it on the ground by accident don't brush it off, just throw it away. The pads are cheap, and not worth an accidental pebal in your paint.

If it was the first time waxing the car, I say use one of the company's step systems. Zaino has them so does Meguiars. You'll want to use a good paint cleaner, then a polish, then a wax. There is a VERY good write up on the "perfect shine" somewhere in the detail forums. I think it's in the washing FAQ.
 
#10 ·
if you guys have a sams club around you can get like 50 car wash towels... duno how much but they sure are handy for washing... no streaks
if you have a lot of grease on your car you might want to use dishwasher soap (tip from zaino)...
 
#11 ·
thanks for the info and link..

i've looked over the zaino stuff, and it looks like it's a lot more work than i'm goign to be able to do. This is more or less a daily driver - I'll be driving it to and from school, and out on the weekends. The post by L337 has tips for what to do after every outing.. that's definetely not an option.

What I want is to be able to take care of my car, say every weekend, and to not have the process last longer than about 2-3 hours. 3 hours really is a maximum, for now.

So far, it seems that this is what I'll need to do:

1. I wash the car twice with a high concentration of car wash.
# After the wash and dry, I examine the paint with my hand. If I find rough areas, I use a good detailing clay and lubricant to remove the contaminants. I finish the cleaning process by going over all of the painted surfaces with a quality pre-wax cleaner. To get the best cleaning action, I use a quality cotton terrycloth applicator to apply and a plush microfiber buffing towel to remove the residue and buff.
# After using the clay bar and the pre-wax cleaner, your paint will literally squeak. You will also be able to see all of the paint defects, which means it's time to get out your polish and treat each area of damaged paint. If I find heavy scuffs or surface scratches that I can feel with my fingernail, I repair these areas with an good scratch remover formula or fine rubbing compound. Swirl marks and other minor blemishes I polish out using a swirl-remover polish formula. Any polish designed to remove 1200 to 2000 grit sanding marks will handle swirl marks. I also use the same polish to go over any area where I used a rubbing compound to restore the full luster of the paint.
# Once perfectly polished, it’s time to seal the paint and lock in the beauty. Even the best wax is no match against pollution, road salt, and other contamination. Use a synthetic formula that does not contain abrasives. You already did all of your polish work in the steps above. Also, if you use an abrasive formula (any formula containing polishes or cleaners), you won't be able to apply more than one coat. I recommend two or three coats. Each coat should be allowed to cure (dry) for at least 12 hours before applying the next coat.

For the last step, can I use a wax instead? I'm not going to have 12 hours to let the car sit and dry before I can reapply another coat.

What's a pre-wax cleaner? Is that the same as a detailing spray? Ahh there are so many terms.. how is this applied, it seems to come in spray bottles?

Lastly, you mentioned that it would make sense to purchase a step thing. I was looking around online and noticed that Meguiars has a 3 step system that includes paint cleaner (Meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner), polish (deep crystal paint polish), and wax (deep crystal carnauba liquid wax). If I buy these three things, the applicators/towels, etc. needed for them, will I be all set? Why isn't a clay bar included in this step system?

Thanks again
 
#12 ·
Some more questions (sorry - maybe this will be a post you can link newbs to):

What do you guys do in the winter? Same routine as all other times of year?

I've been reading that it's not necessary to wax more than once every month/couple of months. Don't the first 3 steps (above) strip old wax off of the car, exposing the paint? So once you've done the 4 steps and waxed your car, what's the procedure for every weekend? Just wash and dry?

Thaaaanks
 
#13 ·
what is the condition of your paint? Do you park your car outside?

If you park your ride outside, putting a cover on it will reduce your detailing work by 75%.

Checkout Proper Autocare.com for some good wash/detail combo packages<--click here.

What they list for their exterior "bare essentials" package is the following:
Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo (16 oz.)
Chenille Wash Pad
Water Sprite Plus
Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity Cleaner (32 oz. spray)
Short Handle Tire & Wheel Brush
Lexol Vinylex (16 oz. spray)
BLACKFIRE PolyClay (2 3 oz. bars)
BLACKFIRE Clay Lubricant (16 oz. spray)
Microfiber Power Scrubber Cloth
Klasse All-In-One (16 oz.)
Microfiber Applicator Pad
Perfect Shine Buffing Cloth

Their interior "bare essentials" includes:
--------------------------------------------------
Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision (32 oz. spray)
Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth
Eimann Fabrik Spot Remover (32 oz. spray)
Leather & Vinyl Scrub Brush
Terry Applicator/Wipe Pad
Klasse Vinyl, Leather, Rubber & Plastic Cleaner & Protectant
Microfiber Applicator Pad.

If you don't buy their stuff, at least you can see what they put in their packages.
My advice is to keep things simple, then add things as needed.

As far as using "high concentrations" of anything, just follow the manufacturer's instructions on the products you buy and modify as necessary for your situation.

It's really not that complicated to get a great shine and keep it that way.

btw, I mix my own Quick Detailer spray.
I use 1) 16-20oz of distilled/deionized/soft water. Any of the home delivery waters will do fine. 2) a couple of drops of good car soap 3) a cap of rubbing alcohol.

Mix in a good spray bottle and use a wet Microfiber cloth to apply, dry/polish with another microfiber cloth. You can also use this to pre-spray bird droppings so they will come off with minimal rubbing during your washing.

Another tip is to fill your wash bucket with very warm water so that any contaminants that are on your car that will melt,soften or disolve will come off with little effort.

I also use Solar Polish on my ride. One application is about as thick as 3 or 4 applications of other polishs. You ride will be silky smooth and be as shiny as a mirror in the sunlight. Check it out here<---. If you buy it, be sure to shake for several minutes before you use it.

I also use Gel-gloss from Home Depot to remove light scratches from just about everything. It a gentle abrasive (like 3000 sandpaper). I use it on glass, plastic, chrome and light colored paint. Always test a new product on an inconspicuous place first.

Good luck.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for all the advice.

I do park my car outside (cringe), and under a tree at that. It's a pine tree, so there aren't any leaves or anything, and not too many bird droppings either. There are however a few, and I'll mix that solution that you spoke of to remove them - thanks for the advice.

I'll be driving this car once/a few times a day, so it's not really practical to put a cover on it.

As you (silver) mentioned, I'd like to keep this process as simple as possible, especially since I'm new to the whole cleaning scene. Right now I'm thinking these are the things that I'll purchase:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kit-washtrio.html
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/meg-g-7116.html
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/cha-3016.html
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/cha-2116.html (If I don't like it I'll get the one that you recommended, I'm just trying to minimize shipping costs)
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/rodi/cha-2216.html

I'll wash and dry the car, use the paint cleaner, then the polish, then the wax. I'll do that I'm guessing once every few months (correct me if I'm wrong) and then just wash and dry the car weekly.

Is that about right?

One more question... when I'm going through the entire process and polishing, waxing, etc., which step strips old excess wax from the car?

Thanks.
 
#15 ·
I ussually at the begining of the summer go through and do a VERY good job off cleaning and polishing and waxing the car. Then at the end of the summer I do it again. In between I just give another good coat of wax ever couple of months or so.

Then during the rest of the time, wash every couple of weeks or if the car looks kinda dirty. I use a car brush to get rid of the dust and if I don't have time to wash I use some quick detailer to shine it up.

The paint cleaner is the part that will strip wax unless you're washing with dish soap.
 
#16 ·
Got it. I think I'll buy those things that I mentioned. I know it's not good to wash in the sun. Is it ever too hot for washing? What about waxing, what sort of conditions are favorable?

Also, the website I'm buying everything from has a bunch of applicators. I'm buying a drying towel and wax applicators. What sort of applicators do I need for the polish and paint cleaner? Do I need buffing towels or rags or cloths or what?

Thanks
 
#17 ·
A good mircofiber towel or terry cloth will be perfect for wiping off the wax with. Use the foam aplicator pads (wax aplicators) to apply the polish and such. I don't know if it's bad to mix them or not, but I have separate ones for everything.

It's not too hot to wash if you're in the shade and your car is cool. A general rule of thumb is if you can put you hand on the car without it feeling too hot, you're good to wax it. The hotter the car is the more spots you'll see because the water will dry faster.
 
#18 ·
If you have to wash in the sun, try Mr. Clean or RainX products that eliminate/reduce spots. When you rinse your car before washing, if the water dries before you start, it's too hot to wash. Best thing to do is rinse/wash/rinse small areas.

Solar Polish car wax can be used in the sun w/o problems.
 
#19 ·
ok, I really think this might be the last quesiton.

If I plan to wash and dry the car, paint clean, polish, and wax, how many applicators and towels will I need?

Here are my estimates:

Washing & Drying: one microfiber towel (in conjunction with a squeegee should do it, right?)

Paint cleaning: Not sure how to use it... I've read online that it can be applied by hand. Is that with more wax applicator pads? Once I apply it is it rinsed or buffed off, if so with what?

Polishing: I want to get some terry cloth.. cloths, but I'm not sure how many I need. like how many of these http://store.yahoo.com/rodi/actw-52.html ? And then I need another microfiber towel for this. Just one?

Waxing: About how many applicators will I need? Are they reusable (can I use the same ones 3 months later)? Will one buffing towel be enough?

Thaaaanks again
 
#20 ·
first off ... autopia is great, and one of a kind, and i'm not sure what you read, but autopia and the forum there will not blink to recomment a product that they don't have, the reason they recommend a lot of the stuff they sell is ... a) they sell good stuff and carfully choose their inventory to be useful stuff and B) you will not find the stuff talked about in the 'net in a hardware store, or walmart ... but you will on autopia ... so naturally, there's one option to buy it from, but also you could choose autogeek.net or detailersparadise.com ...

as for how many towels and stuff to buy ... you can NEVER have too many MF towels and applicators. Wax: you will prob. only need one (maybe too if you prefer to keep the applicator faily clean)

Polishing: maybe 2-3 applicators and towels -- that's good for most other steps as well ... don't limit yourself to just one, keep an extra on hand if its not going on/coming off easily.

i would def. recomment the Einszett Polishes ... they are amazing by hand. other products are great ... but made for use w/ a machine ... the Einszett polishes are made to break down with your hand and will give great results.

if you wanna do it right ... you're most likely gonna have to order from the 'net. there are only a handful of great products on store shelves ... like meg's NXT sealant for example. or another recommended wax ... S100 Carnauba ... you can get it at a local Harley Store

alex
 
#21 ·
ps: i would HIGHLY recomment downloading the Autopian Guide to Detailing from autopia.org ... its a great, free book you can download and it has a ton of great stuff ... its a great reference tool and may just answer some of you questions.
 
#22 ·
Washing & Drying: one microfiber towel (in conjunction with a squeegee should do it, right?) ONE BIG TOWEL. IF YOU HAVE A SHOP VAC YOU CAN PUT THE HOSE ON THE OUTLET AND BLOW THE DOOR JAMBS AND ALL THE OTHER TIGHT SPOTS DRY.

Paint cleaning: Not sure how to use it... I've read online that it can be applied by hand. I'D HAVE SEVERAL CLOTHS AVAILABLE TO APPLY IT. GOT TO RUB IT TO GET THE JUNK OFF. THE CLOTHS GET A LOT OF JUNK ON THEM.

Once I apply it is it rinsed or buffed off, if so with what? LET IT DRY(USUALLY) THEN REMOVE IT/RUB IT OFF WITH ANOTHER CLOTH.

Waxing: About how many applicators will I need? ONE

Are they reusable YES

(can I use the same ones 3 months later)? THROW THEM IN THE WASHER/DRYER.

Will one buffing towel be enough? PROBABLY TWO OR THREE 'CAUSE THEY GET A LOT OF JUNK ON THEM.


You can get the best polishing/cleaning cloths cheap HERE.

24 FOR $16. This is the best deal I've seen. You'll always need more cloths. You'll drop one during the polishing and it will get dirty or you'll rub a tire or a wheel wheel or an edge with a lot of dirt on it.

So basiscally you can get one applicator for the wax and use some of the 24 cloths for everything else. Some of the products will come with additional applicators. Try them out too to see what works best for you.


NOTE: CAPS USED FOR EMPHASIS ONLY.
 
#23 ·
ahh one more question, as usual. maybe i should just stop saying that.

i was driving last night and it was barely raining, mostly foggy. I had to use the windshield wiper every say 8 seconds, and when I'd wipe the glass it would cover up with a sort of fog. It's not relaly a fog, it seemed more like very fine beads of water that wouldn't go away.

I remember when I first got this car (used) and it rained heavily the water beaded up very quickly on hte windshield, yet was still fairly difficult to remove completely via the wipers.

In my infinite ignorance I assumed that this was regular car wax, yet recently found out that this can't be so. I read the other thread on this forum about Rain-X and Rain Away and the other product, yet there doesn't seem to be a consensus about how effective they are.

Is that what's currently on the car? If so, why do people use it? I felt like visibility was almost worst as a result of it.

Thanks
 
#25 ·
I've used my shop vac to dry the cracks/crevices after using a Cal Water Blade and microfiber towel. Check out my review on the vacuum cleaner/blower here<---.

I've read other posts that rave about using a leaf blower. They mention the Toro 215 mph model and how fast/easy it is to dry their ride.
 
#26 ·
Originally posted by Snowjob@Jul 29 2004, 06:13 PM
It's not relaly a fog, it seemed more like very fine beads of water that wouldn't go away.

I use Gel-gloss on my windshield. This will let the water sheet off and make it easier for your wipers to work because of reduced friction.
 
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