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Originally posted by Wil524@Jul 4 2004, 11:33 PM Clubin, use what is recommended by factory.* I believe the M52 or M54 is the dual VANOS one, might have my numbers mixed up there.* Putting 2 pronged plugs into an engine that had 4 pronged plugs will cause it to miss fire and flood, encountered that same problem many times.* BTW, jllphan, I am a BMW mechanic.
Your a BMW mechanic? Than how do you not know that the M52 2.8L is a single VANOS engine? The double vanos wasn't introduced until the release of the M54. And the oem spark plug is a twin copper diode Bosch Super F 8 LDCR. And I am not a mechanic, merely someone who knows what they are talking about.
Tmac: That is age. It could be a lot of things. The aforementioned VANOS unit can fail at 80,000 or 200,000. Anyone who knows how this unit works, knows at it begins to fail, depending on the postion when it begins to do so, can rob you of low end torque and acceleration. So can plugs in need of changing. So can a host of other parts. The best thing you can do, is start with the cheap replacement parts and work your way up. At worst, you are replacing parts that are worn anyway. :wink
My car does that, it's called a torque curve (wups that was mean :P ) If anyone complains about the 6 cylinder engine it's the flat spot int he torque curve at 2500-3500 that's most noticable at 3k. It's likely it's just normal and nothing to worry about.
If I were you I'd replace the plugs just so I knew when they were replaced.
I also think you're just being paranoid, calm down .
Kevin
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"WAAAAAAARRRRRIORS, come out to plaaaaay."
And there you go. Yes, but when new, there is a seamless acceleration throughout the RPM range, not in just the powerband. I recall this from the past.
When I received my current whip I noticed the lagg in the 1600-2900RPM range as well. It has partially subsided based on some of the following I've changed and or added...
New Plugs (OEM Bosch Super F 8 LDCR)
Air Filter (Debafled AirBox, made new not restored with regards to power)
RedLine Fully Synthetic Racing Oil (10W-40)
RedLine Water Wetter
Lucus Oil Stablizer
Octane Booster/ Injector Cleaner (every third tank)
Originally posted by jllphan@Jul 5 2004, 02:31 AM New Plugs (OEM Bosch Super F 8 LDCR)
Air Filter (Debafled AirBox, made new not restored with regards to power)
RedLine Fully Synthetic Racing Oil (10W-40)
RedLine Water Wetter
Lucus Oil Stablizer
Octane Booster/ Injector Cleaner (every third tank)
I like how you make sure to say RACING OIL
If your climate is warm enough, you could try a straight 40 weight oil from them.
Kevin
__________________ Kevin (President TBEA)
"WAAAAAAARRRRRIORS, come out to plaaaaay."
when I bought my car it had bosch +4 plugs in it. I don't notice a problem under 3k, but my accleration drops off (flat spots if it were graphed) after about 4.25 k rpm and then kicks back in after 5k. You can feel it if your just riding. Ya'll think that this is because of the spark plugs?
Copper plugs actually outlast the +2's or +4's. I agree with jllphan. I had a really rough idle with the +4's, and when I switched to the +2's I had some really bad hesistation occasionally at 3000RPM+, it was really annoying.
A long long time ago I used the NGK platinum plugs, no complaints. However, OEM BMW copper plugs are definitely more consistant as jllphan mentioned. Most BMW Mechanics will recommend sticking with OEM copper core plugs.
Bry
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Copper will *always* give better, more efficient sparks. The *only* reason for going with platinum or iridium is if you're obsessed with only changing the plugs once every 100k miles. Copper electrodes wear out much quicker, as the copper is much softer. This creates a larger plug gap which will sometimes cause misfires or stumbling when the spark gets blown out. If you don't mind changing them a bit more, copper is 100% the best option.
Originally posted by uiuc240@Oct 12 2004, 12:53 PM Copper will *always* give better, more efficient sparks. The *only* reason for going with platinum or iridium is if you're obsessed with only changing the plugs once every 100k miles. Copper electrodes wear out much quicker, as the copper is much softer. This creates a larger plug gap which will sometimes cause misfires or stumbling when the spark gets blown out. If you don't mind changing them a bit more, copper is 100% the best option.
Eric
[snapback]209940[/snapback]
you know its funny, i've put the bosch 4 platimun set on my car, and i have to say i love them, i have no problems wahtsoever, the car runs smooth and veyr nice, i have no startup problem or idling, everything works great..
and even on BMW TiS they have a bulleting about this spark plugs, they say that it is approved to use them and that is pretty much what they have been usgin lately..
what i velieve is that when you put those plgus and you have some problems, is dues to the fact that those plugs require that the air fuel ratio mxi to be good, meaning that in case your intake system has some issues that fdid not show up, with the new plugs it will most likely show up..
i think this happens because the 4+ plugs work on a hoger energy and temperature, and so if the intake system has some weaknesses it will not make the burn good.
so make sure your intake system has good gastkets, good vacuum hoses, no leaks etc, clean ICV>
i've had the plugs since day one, and never had problems, and after i took the intake manifold and replaced all gastkets and hoses and all, the engine runs like a dream, very smooth, great on startups and all, even when is very cold out there, the engine starts fine, with no hesitation anyting..
well this is just my 1 cent about his topic..
o yeah, the other reason BMW decided to turn to platimun sparks is due to the fact that they last longer since they dont get eating with time due to the spark. they also burn hotter and more intense, meaning full gas combustion.. better fuel comsuption etc..
they have a whole article explaining bosch 4 platimun on the net..
have a good one
__________________ You are a BMW driver when you become part of the "Ultimate Driving Machine"
My 318ti (M44) came with NGK 2 prong BMW OEM fitted, I changed them for NGK aftermarket versions (the same) and it was exactly the same although maybe idled a little smoother, just recently mainly just for the sake of it and I was bored I put in a set of Bosch +4 (which are the high powered version that BMW fit and recommend in the M cars) and it immediately felt smoother all the way through the rev range, and idles very very smooth with no occassional lumpiness I felt with the NGK's.
I will wait to see what the fuel consumption gives with these, as I beleive that is a very good indication of how well the mixture is being burnt and the efficiency of the engine.
Both these types of plugs are approved for my car though.
I got these plugs int here as well. I dont want ot change my plugs often so I bought these out of peace of mind that they will last a very long time and be more than sufficient. It was a peace of mind option and a very easy to pop in, so I dropped a few more dollars into it. I cant remember how long ago i did them but I think the total came out like $35 for six of the +4's.
The bosch +4 are only good if you gap them so that the 4 prongs are all equal distance. The place that i bought them from does this to all +4 plugs because if any of them are slightly closer the spark will only hit one leed everytime, but if there equaly they will perform as advertised.
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