Hi, just found this forum while looking for some E36 wiring diagrams - it sure looks helpful. I'm Dave from London, UK, and I got my first BMW (a 323i Coupe) in summer this year. For a 10 year old car I was surprised what I had been missing - a friend had been pestering me to get one for years. I fixed the common 'bouncy windows' problem, put on a new dent-free bootlid and am now hooked on doing my own fixes after years of paying someone else. So, I guess I'll be asking for lots of !
i use to hate bimmers... and their drivers.... then I drove my friends 325ci that was modded by allison bmw and though hmmmm this it fun.... the she told me do go for it and with traction control of that thing was a monster. shortly later I was givin my e30and ever since I have been stuck...... these cars are addicting....
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
I had two problems - the clips that hold the support bar at the bottom of the window to the 'scissors' had started to break, so I replaced them and loaded them with grease. The other problem was that the scissors were pushing the glass outwards at the bottom, so when the window tried to go up, the friction would build up until it bounced back down. To fix this (very scientific) I loosened all the bolts that hold the support bar to the vertical runner at the back of the door, so it could flop in and out a little, then wound the window up and down a few times, so the mechanism moved where it wanted to. Then I just tightened the bolts again. So far it's been fine on both doors!
Heh, I only gave you half the story... I managed to get most of the clips off intact, and I had a few spares. First I took out the mirror switch, and the two small covers to take out the screws holding on the middle of the door card.
Then for the clips, I found a special tool, basically a piece of metal about 3/4 inch across, fairly thin, with a square notch cut in the end, and bent slightly about 2 inches from the end. Slide the tool behind the card at the edge. Once you get the clip in the notch, you use it like a crowbar and it pops out without ripping it from the card. I suppose a strong blunt knife would work as well, so long as it was right next to the clip..
The problem I had was the top of the card. There's a plastic moulding under it which reinforces the top, and holds it to the door via some different shaped metal clips. This basically fell off the card, so I used my mini-crowbar to pop it free afterwards, then used some strong epoxy glue to remount it on the card, and it's been fine since.
There's also a foam rubber shield under the card, which is glued on with some sticky stuff that never dries out, a bit like well-chewed gum. Remove it carefully in one piece, and you can just press it back on afterwards. Then you can get to the window components.
Greetings,
just joined... name's Mark, So Cal native, one of my cars is an '82 Polaris Metallic 320i 5spd. w/148,000 miles, and all original. Nice site!
__________________ Cheers,
Mark
1982 320i 5spd.
1987 Volvo 245DL Estate 5spd.
1967 Volkswagen Beetle 4spd.
Too many surfboards & skateboards to count.
Thanks for the welcome and the kind words, Da Bull.
That IS a snazzy car (LOL snazzy ) how long you had her/him?
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
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