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|M-Series (M1, M3, M5, M6) General M-Series Discussion - If it does not fit into a more specific M Category above, please place it in here. In addition, previously archived M-Series discussion is located in this section.|
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| Originally posted by KingScare@Jan 15 2004, 12:07 PM |
I also run a 98 m3...
and lets say i arrive at a light or a stop and i put the clutch in... the revs drop because obviously i'm not adding gas anymore and yes...the rpm needle drops "slightly" below the idle point and my car sounds like its gonna stall...but it jumps right back up to idle and runs perfectly.
It's just when i'm getting ready to stop and the rpms drop from like 1.5 or 2 to the idle. Like you said, the needle just slightly passes the idle point and the motor sort of "flutters" like its gonna stall but doesnt.
i think it's normal.
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| Originally posted by KingScare@Jan 15 2004, 12:36 PM |
It happened this summer and it's happening during the winter.
It basically manifests when i put the clutch in getting ready for a full stop and the needle gets the chance to hit the idle point. It just slips by real quick, i hear my motor flutter and then it comes right back up and idles fine.
It never really died on me though. That never happened.
| Originally posted by Furious@Jan 15 2004, 03:01 PM |
this is a very common problem with all e36's the so called "idle bounce" as we dubed it back in the day of BMWplanet. id like to hear what tech has to say, because there has been so many different theories as to why this happens. mine turned out to be the ICV was sticking a bit. but since has come back, (a year in between) and i know that the sticking ICV isnt always the problem for this particular issue.
| Originally posted by TECH@Jan 16 2004, 12:25 AM |
The most common problem would be the idle air control valve as mentioned by Furious. In many makes of cars, like BMW's, the valve gets carboned up and sticks, so that when the valve is trying to open, there is a delay in it's movement, and the engine stumbles, and sometimes dies. If it's really bad, the engine may start, and simply stall. Most of the time it will surge as it tries to correct. You can take it off, and attempt to clean it with brake clean, or carb cleaner, but there is no guarantee that will work. We always replace them, simply so we don't have to do the same work twice, once to clean, and then again to replace it.
You can also check for any vacuum leaks around the intake boot/hoses, but a leak should set a check engine light.
Other than that, M3's have been finicky about idling when they are cold. There was a software program update for the E36 M3, and there is also one for the e46 M3.
I'd look into those 2 areas.
| Originally posted by KingScare@Jan 16 2004, 10:12 AM |
Those software upgrades are available at the stealer right??
And i bet they can tell if it's already installed right? So if i bring it in and it's already on...i won't get charged right??
How much is it if i do need to upgrade?
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