Noob Question - Reliablity And Cost - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
M-Series (M1, M3, M5, M6) General M-Series Discussion - If it does not fit into a more specific M Category above, please place it in here. In addition, previously archived M-Series discussion is located in this section.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
#1 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 01:26 AM
n00b
 
DLogic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
DLogic is an unknown quantity at this point
(Thread Starter)
Ladies and Gentlemen...

I am the current owner of a 02 Subaru WRX Wagon. After a long haul with this and many other sport compacts I am now looking towards an M3 (still deciding on a year).

My question to anyone who is willing is this:

a) How reliable are BMWs in general and the M3 specifically?

- and -

B) Are parts so dramatically expensive (OEM and aftermarket) that the cost is an undue burden on the owner?

So, please feel free to throw your thoughts out and avoid flaming me for my obvious inexperience.

Thanks in advance.
DLogic is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 07:34 PM
5th Gear Member
 
billB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,635
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute billB has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via Yahoo to billB
To avoid flaming I say the the following GENERAL REMARKS:

1. For the reliability issue? it all depends on the condition of the car you pick/year/mileage/history of ex owners for the obvious reasons. New vs. old and the 25K miles vs. the 250K!! Anyone can tell you which is more reliable.

As to maintenance? well BMWs are classified as luxury cars which carries with it a predetermined price/cost! slightly higher than average but there are ways around it as you may know. OEM parts over the net/plenty of after market parts as good as OEMs in fact in some cases these parts do exceed OEM specifications.

Finally if you are one of those DIYs you can save good $$$ by simply doing it yourself when both time and the nature of the problems allows you to do so.

Good luck a year from now
regards
billb
billB is offline  
#3 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 08:24 PM
1st Gear Member
 
MadBMW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
MadBMW is an unknown quantity at this point
I am new to this forum too, and what I have found; is that if you have a compression test (test bad piston/values) done and have a pressure test (test cooling system) done you should be alright. You need to ask yourself a few questions first before we can help you.

Q. Are you looking for a daily driver that you will not beat on or are you looking for something to race on the track.

A. Depending on what you use the car for, will depend on how long the parts and the car will hold up. Things to look into is how much it will cost to maintain the car (tires, brakes,clutch,etc). Call around and see if anyone will give you a rough estimate for the model that you are interested in.

Q. How much money are you looking to spend?

A. The ///M series are more valued in the auto market due to the performance upgrades. If you can't afford the car, you are not going to be able to afford the maintaince to it and you might want to look into the 328,325 or 318.

Q. What area do you live in?

A. Depending on the area and what they put down on the road (salt) the car could have a lot of hidden rust damage.

Q. Are you willing to put in the time?

A. This question has two answers:
1. Research, Research, Research; the longer you can study what model you want, and options that you what, will give you a better idea where to start your hunt. Then find the car and have it checked by a certified dealership.

2. How much time do you have to take care of the car? Are you willing to wax it and have it washed when the salt goes down (if you are in the north). Also you can find less expensive ways to have a BMW, you just have to figure out what you will do and what you have to pay someone else to do?

I have a jeep, Harely and a boat. The ///M3 that I will buy will have high miles on it and I will be able to let it sit if it has a problem. What I have found on this board as far as problems is far less than a lot of the cars on the road. There is a list of known issues and recalls, I just can't remember what it was posted under.

I recommend searching the board for keywords and you will get the answers that you need.

Don't worry about being a Noobie on this board, all the guys are great. I would watch what you post on M3forum.net, if you haven't been there yet. Those guys can be kind of nasty.

MADBMW

2002 Bmw X5 4.4I
1997 Bmw M3 3.2L
1988 Sunbird Eurosport SLC 5.7L
MadBMW is offline  
#4 (permalink) Old 02-01-2005, 10:45 PM
n00b
 
DLogic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
DLogic is an unknown quantity at this point
(Thread Starter)
Thanks for the responses.

MadBMW, to answer some of your answers:

I live in Northern California, road salt will not be an issue. Thank god.

This will be my daily driver and it will also participate in a variety of local track days. Currently my WRX has done both without any adverse problems from the ritual flogging on the track. That is the kind of reliablity I am looking for.

I am a DIY kind, although I do understand what is over my head.

I am a driving instructor by trade. So being in the education industy doesn't do much for the pocketbook. I want something that can hold up, retain value and won't have any catastrophic engine, transmission or drivetrain issues. That has been my biggest concern.

Time is always an issue, however, having owned a variety of older cars (510s and other Datsuns) I normally find the time to do what is needed. As far as research is concerned, I am a nut for it. Which brings me to your comments about the 328, 325 and 318. I'll start looking into it further.

billB:

I have done a good bit of looking around and have purchased a multitude of cars in my lifetime (a short one though). When it comes to looking at used and second hand vehicles I prefer to stay away from dealers, as they are not allowed to produce any documents on the car's previous life. I've found that dealing with private sellers always is the better way to go. If the previous owner comes out with a folder that hits the table with a thud and has every replaced part, torqued lug and oil change since it was purchased, I know I've got a winner and a guy after my own heart.

Thanks again to both of you.
DLogic is offline  
#5 (permalink) Old 02-02-2005, 08:37 PM
1st Gear Member
 
MadBMW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
MadBMW is an unknown quantity at this point
Quote:
Originally posted by DLogic@Feb 1 2005, 10:45 PM
Thanks for the responses.

MadBMW, to answer some of your answers:

I live in Northern California, road salt will not be an issue. Thank god.

This will be my daily driver and it will also participate in a variety of local track days. Currently my WRX has done both without any adverse problems from the ritual flogging on the track. That is the kind of reliablity I am looking for.

I am a DIY kind, although I do understand what is over my head.

I am a driving instructor by trade. So being in the education industy doesn't do much for the pocketbook. I want something that can hold up, retain value and won't have any catastrophic engine, transmission or drivetrain issues. That has been my biggest concern.

Time is always an issue, however, having owned a variety of older cars (510s and other Datsuns) I normally find the time to do what is needed. As far as research is concerned, I am a nut for it. Which brings me to your comments about the 328, 325 and 318. I'll start looking into it further.

billB:

I have done a good bit of looking around and have purchased a multitude of cars in my lifetime (a short one though). When it comes to looking at used and second hand vehicles I prefer to stay away from dealers, as they are not allowed to produce any documents on the car's previous life. I've found that dealing with private sellers always is the better way to go. If the previous owner comes out with a folder that hits the table with a thud and has every replaced part, torqued lug and oil change since it was purchased, I know I've got a winner and a guy after my own heart.

Thanks again to both of you.
[snapback]284448[/snapback]
I found this for you.
Reliability:Well, I just bought the car, but with 100k miles, the compression test showed 150psi across the board. Rear suspension items were recently replaced and so was the thermostat housing and water pump. Otherwise it seems to be solid. Lets hope it stays that way, or at least if something breaks I hope I can fix it..

Reliability:i only had to replace a couple of cables because they were not giving me full eletric power. but that was not to much money. not engine wise. i love this car and i will for sure buy anther bmw someday..

Reliability:I suppose you really want to know how reliable this car is. In my oppinion, it is more reliable than a Kia, but not as good as an Accura. The reason I say this, is because in a consumer guide survey of repirs per 100 cars, Acura turned in the best. That said, I would never own a Honda product. Here is something that I do tell people, "They are all machines". At some point something will go wrong. What does matter to me, is that I am happy in what I drive. And it sure isn't a Kia. The E36 is a reliable machine. With proper maintenance it should last you for several decades. And at the end of that time, anyone can easily tell you what it is you drive. I'm sold on this car. Should some earthshaking event should occur to change my mind, I'll be writing about it. In the meantime, this car gets my thumbs up!.

2002 Bmw X5 4.4I
1997 Bmw M3 3.2L
1988 Sunbird Eurosport SLC 5.7L
MadBMW is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > M-Series (M1, M3, M5, M6)


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome