Mmkay, update, just drove it the 30 miles home from work, she runs...uhm.. rough.
Feels like its going to just randomly die around 1000rpm, then it bogs right up to around 2k rpm, then it takes off like a nuclear bomb exploded under the hood.
I think I just need to put a different pressure disc in my vortech FMU.. any recommendations anyone? I'm running a t3 off a 524td euro.
Tiny lil restrictive turbo, might be why its bogging below that rpm, more then likely simply cant flow when the thing isnt spooling so the motor isnt getting the air it needs.. or its just running so rich the thing cant do anythign with itself but sputter and act like its gunna die.
I'll put a diff disc in the FMU tomorrow and see how she runs.
For now, heres some pics:
Suede (pigskin) steering wheel I sewed:
The view hopefully most people will be seeing soon:
The install isnt even close to done, I was told I had to stop parking/working on it @ work(it was parked there the last 6 months).
Factory bosch tuning, 24# bosch injectors. Ran perfect when stock, I'll get 'er right. If not, Ill just , start again. I'm addicted now. I forgot how, connected, driving an e30 feels(esp. with the solid bushings and tokico suspension system)
Spark control box(for setting spark retard), lighting control module for the cluster guage, audiovox remote start/alarm, wiring for various electrical things under the hood (dual electric fans, methanol injection remote turn on, etc)
then the fuse box and 2 relays i have on the pass. side under the hood tword the firewall are fuses for the crane Hi-6, one for the methanol injector motor, one for the front pusher fan, one for the puller fan.
The list for the whole shebang is as follows:
524td ported /notched manifold
bosch o2 sensor
Crane Hi-6 digital ignition controler w/ TRC-2 spark retard w/ boost porportional control module
Remote dual oil filters
Oil cooler from a h2 supercharger kit
Stock rebuild motor using factory headgasket
Metric blue non-stretch head bolts for superior head holding
methanol injection system w/ boost activation and switch activation
relocated AFM w/ K&N filter
dual electric fans
Full limo tint
17" Complite wheels
General UHP tires
The main cause of your running problems are from the draw through setup, I used to run a draw though and found that it's really only good for 1/4 mile but sucks for daily driver. Because of the plumbing from the AFM to throttle body their action is delayed causing poor throttle response and crappy off idle power plus during spool up the AFM is open while the boost is being built causing a high rich condition until boost hits the cylinders. This makes the idle system acts crazy too. I also noticed that I had to crank longer to start.
To retain low end power and have better throttle response the AFM must be as close to the throttle body as possible. If you are going to run a draw through setup, a blow off valve ducted back into the intake just before the turbo, this will prevent the AFM from staying open while the blow off valve is open preventing a rich condition once off the gas. Since your car is an auto an external blow off (noise maker) is useless. Over all I like your build, reminds me of my late turbocharged 325i
Once I find a new compressor wheel for my T3/T4 I'll post my 325es build up too.
P.S. Put a one way check valve in the PCV hose or block it off at the intake and run a mini filter off from the valve cover, at boost over 5psi you'll blow oil out every oil seal and weak gasket in the motor, been there done that....
a blow off valve ducted back into the intake just before the turbo,
I too was wondering where his recirc BOV was. From the looks of it, nuke doesnt have any room to play post hfm, pre turbo. As he said the project is not complete, but once he does get his bypass valve i'm sure it should alleviate some of the idle problems.
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