Greetings. It's been a while since my last post, but I've been busy sourcing parts and preparing for the build stage. Several complications have prevented the 2.9l stroker from happening, and instead I am building an S50 from an M50. Don't worry, it's still a frankenmotor to me. Many parts are at my machinist and I am eager to post pictures of the new parts. I drop off the impossible to find last piston tomorrow and I will pick up parts and probably build the motor next weekend.
As for this installment, I will be dropping a pair of S50 camshafts into my camshaft trays and completing the reassembly of the cylinder head. I have replaced all of the valves for cylinder 6, as well as all of the valvestem seals. Sorry I don't have pictures, but I will describe the process:
First you need to remove the valve and the valvespring from the cylinder head as seen here in step one of the frankenmotor build. Then, using a pair of channel lock pliers you squeeze the valvestem seal and twist, releasing and clamping it alternating in 90 degrees so that it deforms and weakens the metal. Be careful not to scar the valve guides as you do this. Once the valvestem seal is off, use a soft cloth to remove any rubber debris from the valve guide and press the new valvestem seal on until it is flush. A barbed lip on the guide holds the seal on by cutting into the rubber against the metal housing. This makes them difficult to get off so do it slowly and carefully. It took Joe (IamJoe) and I nearly two and a half hours to replace the full set.
I have also cleaned, polished, lubricated and reassembled the cup tappets and the camshaft trays. They were kept wrapped in foil until the head was ready to be reassembled, and once the valves and valvestem seals were finished, Joe and I placed the trays inside of the cylinder head. We also put on the VANOS unit and the new valve cover gasket to keep dust out, and just for vanity, added something else...
Also, I have prepared the camshafts by coating the lobes and bearings with assembly lube:
We will be off to the garage in a moment to install the camshafts using the Pelican Parts method. I have tested the theory by placing the camshaft on the cam tray and turning it to find the sweet spot. More pictures will follow detailing our installation. Stay tuned!
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Addicted to Speed Since 1997 Founding member of the GreenDragon Poo Flingers Club
Founder and Double Member of the 150mph club
thats great! I like the steps you post here. As far as S50 cams I am still debating on getting them. Are they that aggressive compared to M50 cams, or is it mainly getting the cam software that helps? Granted used S50 cams are wayy less than schricks, or sunbelts.
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member and partial creator of pimpin the auto club
thats great! I like the steps you post here. As far as S50 cams I am still debating on getting them. Are they that aggressive compared to M50 cams, or is it mainly getting the cam software that helps? Granted used S50 cams are wayy less than schricks, or sunbelts.
The camshafts themselves don't make much of a difference without the software, but yes, they do make a very large difference. The car will have a more aggressive midrange and top end from the S50 camshafts, and will also dump quite a bit more fuel. The major difference in horsepower between the M50 and S50US is the camshafts and fuel injectors. The main difference in torque comes from the extra bore and stroke.
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Addicted to Speed Since 1997 Founding member of the GreenDragon Poo Flingers Club
Founder and Double Member of the 150mph club
Alright, we're done!! It actually didn't take long once we got downstairs to do it, and our procedure for S50 cams was slightly different from the pelican article, which was written with M50 cams.
This photo shows the correct orientation of the cam as you place it into the cylinder head. In this position, the lobe for cylinder 1 is at an angle, and cylinder 4 is making slight contact with it's respective lifter. This initial angle is only for threading the nuts and is temporary.
After eight quarter turns on each nut, alternating top and bottom after each quarter turn, you can turn the camshaft to the sweet spot where cylinder 1's lobes are straight perpendicular to the cam tray and parallel with the studs that hold the tray in place, cylinder 6's lobe should be straight up and the rest should be all at angles that have no contact. This is the position that your partner will hold while you tighten the nuts onto the studs. I used a torque wrench the whole time (set to 11lbs/ft) so that it would just click when it was torqued. The second angle should look like this:
At this point, the nuts for cylinder 1 should be torqued. Now we put on the nuts for all the other cylinders. Quarter turns are no longer necessary, you can use half turns. Follow the same pattern for tightening these as for tightening the head to the block. Same number of nuts, same need for even pressure. Skip the ones for cylinder 1, since they are already torqued. (duh)
Once that's done, repeat the process until the other side is also done. In this photo, the vanos unit is back on because it's going to seal the front from dust while the head is stored pending my block and bottom end components' return from the machine shop. Keen observers will note a missing nut on E1. This is because my parts guy is a fucktard and gave me an open bag with one missing. I'm going to stop at a local BMW shop tomorrow to get one from a kind mechanic who keeps alot of spares.
To protect against dust, I now put the valve cover on. I will probably drink a beer and celebrate, for not a camshaft did break. Thanks Pelican Parts!
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Addicted to Speed Since 1997 Founding member of the GreenDragon Poo Flingers Club
Founder and Double Member of the 150mph club
did you slap a new vanos unit on too? its going to go out soon anyway lol
__________________ Kyle Sutherland
1995 BMW 540i/6: The Calypso Beast Vid 0-70ish 1987 BMW 325es: Face & Butt Lifted/M50tu Swapped*Sold* 1985 VW Scirocco: Too many mods, money pit*Sold* E34 Plate Filler Wanted!
__________________ Kyle Sutherland
1995 BMW 540i/6: The Calypso Beast Vid 0-70ish 1987 BMW 325es: Face & Butt Lifted/M50tu Swapped*Sold* 1985 VW Scirocco: Too many mods, money pit*Sold* E34 Plate Filler Wanted!
can you tell me what are two numbers that actually shows on the camshafts itself?? because some people said that the S50B30US & M50B25 got the same number on camshafts.
can you tell me what are two numbers that actually shows on the camshafts itself?? because some people said that the S50B30US & M50B25 got the same number on camshafts.
that may be the case but the cam profiles are way different i have seen them side by side...
of you are asking if the S50 cams fit in an M50tu the answer is yes....
__________________ Kyle Sutherland
1995 BMW 540i/6: The Calypso Beast Vid 0-70ish 1987 BMW 325es: Face & Butt Lifted/M50tu Swapped*Sold* 1985 VW Scirocco: Too many mods, money pit*Sold* E34 Plate Filler Wanted!
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