I'm in the process of upgrading my sound system. I'm looking for advice on speaker upgrades, and mounting options. I'd like to keep the install as stock as possible, but I'm willing open to holes if I need to. I'm considering JL Audio, Dynaudio or Infinity component systems, but with the odd size openings, feel there may be too much modification. While I'm at it, the rear deck panel has faded to a lavender purple color. I'd like to remove it and re-dye it black. Any hints on how to get it out without any damage? Please help !
El Presidente...Thanx for the advice on the Deck panel ! As far as the speaker openings...compared to what I'm used to, the Bimmer has odd size openings. I've had American cars with 6x9 or 6 1/2's in the rear, and 4x6 to 6 1/2's up front.
I like the appeal of the JL Audio subs, then I suppose all I would need is to mount some tweeters in back with them. I would also consider something mounted for the mids in the rear, but not really sure if I'd need them. I already know I'm going with the JL 300/4 amp and I'm thinking JL VR or XR 525CSI's up front, but now that I've seen the Dynaudio's I'm intrigued by them also. I was looking at Diamond Audio components too, but my installer said they're a little harsh and the way he'd go is JL Audio...they're smoother. I'm a hard rocker that likes to hear the full spectrum crystal clear. I'm looking for what others have done for systems ? If I'm gonna drop $1500.00 on a system, I want to make sure I'm happy ! I already have an older Alpine (Of course) head unit I'm building around. Let me know
Personally, I dislike sound coming from the rear. If I'm at a concert, the music is coming from the stage, not behind me. In my car, the balance is almost fully on the front (12 out 15). In the back, I have an Infinity 1230 reference sub and infinity speakers up front. If you choose the same, that will forgo the need for rear speakers and let you focus on the front.
As reccomended, the stealthboxes are are good idea for the back and they will provide great midbass, but may leave you unfulfilled on the low end. it will save you a lot of space though.
If you'd like, Im selling my current box and amp (minus the sub) in the classifieds. Could help you out and save you some cash in the bass area. All you need is a sub. But I see you have your mind pretty much made up on the amp, and the box is made to house the amp. Check it out.
__________________ <span style='color:gray'><span style='font-family:Courier'>1995 e36 3 Series RIP
1999 e46 3 Series BURN IN HELL
2000 MR-S Roadster= Current</span></span>
I also lied. If you seat back has never been removed, there are two bolts that also hold it in place. Nobody ever replaces them, so if the seat has been taken off before you can just pull off. If they are there, you'll need to pull back on the seat around the seatbelt latch. You'll see a bolt. There's one on each side.
__________________ <span style='color:gray'><span style='font-family:Courier'>1995 e36 3 Series RIP
1999 e46 3 Series BURN IN HELL
2000 MR-S Roadster= Current</span></span>
Prez is right on. The stealthboxes are compact and conveinient, but if you are going to shell out the cash, sacrifice a little trunk space and go with a real enclosure. What most don't realize, is that a box is everything. You could take a $20 sub and put it in the perfect box and it will kill a $300 sub in a box too small.
You don't need anything huge, but most subs require .75-2.00 cu.ft. of airspace for an enclosure, and the more of it dispersed directly behind the sub, the better. This is something most stealth boxes lack. I have a 8" Kicker Solobaric L7 sub that lb for lb will outperform most 10" subs. I love it because it is very small (doesn't eat trunk space) but will handle a lot of power and reach very high SPL's.
As for speakers, I would have Dynaudio, Infinity, PolkAudio, or Diamond Audio (these being the most recomended, just pricey) over JL any day of the week...
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