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ok, so my 8'' cvr is not meeting my bass demands, i blame the shitty enclosure
so im gonna throw a sub or two in the trunk, i went to the audio shop and they lent me a 10'' kicker sub (sqaured one in its enclousre) i just threw it in the trunk and cranked it, it sounded pretty good, the bass DOES go into the cabin, so im gonna have a box made in the trunk, i roughly calculated between 2-3 cubic feet, i dont know if i shuld throw in either two 10'' subs or one 12'' sub?
i had two 10'' kicker comps in my old jetta and they thumped real nice, not sure how they would sound in the z3 though, but i could def feel the 10'' squared kicker sub....
im trying to keep my same amplifier, but if i have to i will get another one...
also, do i HAVE to make a full closed enclosure? or could i get away with using the current walls in the trunk and just making a front face/wall and mount the speakers on there?
ok, so ive been looking around and really want to do a 12'' kicker L5, i seem to have the airspace for it, just need to check on the mounting depth since the z3 has a weird shaped trunk
if i cant do a 12'' L5, im either going to do a single 10'' L5 or dual 10'' kicker cvr's
what do you think about my current choices da bull?
also, i came across the kicker CVX, never heard them before, but look like they pack a punch, they seem a bit pricey too, around the same price as the 10'' L5 but with more punch, the 10'' L5 has 900/450 watts while the 10'' cvx has 1200/600
i want to make the right choice and get it right this time, this new system is gonna be a bit pricey so i dont want mess it up, which is why i really want the 12'' L5...i know that fucker will get bass into the cabin
of course, dynamat in the trunk will be a must, but that will come later
I would fly with the 12" if you have the room. A typical 12" will be 3db louder than an equivalent 10" because they noramlly have the same size voice coil and motor structure. That motor is hooked to a larger surface area, so the motor is only going to travel a certain length up and down and the larger cone surface produces more air moving, thus more volume with the same amp.
The design of that top picture is what is called an infinite baffle. You have to make sure the woofer can run in that type of enclosure or it will burn up easily. Basically there is nothing to support the woofers excursion, so it REALLY has to control itself. Your amp needs to have a good damping factor (it should have that measurement somewhere). I'm not familiar enough with the new Kicker stuff to know off the top of my head.
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ok, so i went to check out the 12 L5, yea, no way thats gonna fit, so i need to do a 10'' sub, the guy said i dont have enough room for 2 cvr's and since the 10'' L7 i about 200...im going with a 10'' Kicker CVX
now i have to pick an amplifier, i was looking around and noticed that the kicker amplifiers dont have a peak/rms wattage on them, just a maximum power....also, theyre class d amps...no clue what that means
get the two CVR's friend has 2 12" CVR and those thing hit SOOOOOOOOOO hard......(their also in an ext. cab S-10 right behind the damn seat) I can hear him clearly 2-3 blocks away! other friend has 2 cvx's 12's and they dont hit very hard... not sure if it is the amp or not....
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Originally Posted by drz
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CALL KICKER (# is on their web site!). I did when considering an upgrade last summer and they were very nice and helpful anbd knowledgeable! Also, they did mention as I recall that their amps are hungry F#ckers, so bear in mind you will need lots of amp power for even one of them. Also, try and do the cool amp mounting (under the floor of the trunk - wish mine was like that!) as in the roadstersound site you sent me awhile back so you don't completely fill your trunk with audio stuff and can't carry a screwdriver with you...
Lastly, afetr all my questions, once the amp was broken in (took a good few months), and then adjusted professionally with the crossover properly set on the head unit AND the amp, there was no need at all to change from the 8" Kicker CVR I have. It hit really hard and was SUPER loud without problems. Yes, there are SOME limits at the upper end on very bassy dance or metal music, but pretty much within reason, there is a ton of bang there. Recall, I have 1 x 700 watt Alpine power amp just for the single mono 8" Kicker CVR. I do, however, as you know, have a custom built actual box for it and it works really well. I intend to ask my sound guy why he "wasted".so much extra space on the box and by mounting the sub an extra 3" back into the box near the rear edge rather than putting it right against the front edge and not impeding my space for the top to go down without "clearing" it. He never asked me about this, just did it, along with the placement of the power amp in the trunk. Thing is, it does sound great, which in the end, is most important!
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hey da_bull, so im pretty much set on a 10'' kicker CVX, maybe a 12'' cvx if i can figure out the space for it, ill be putting whatever sub i pick into a sealed box
the 10'' cvx can handle 600 watts rms and 1200 watts peak, i was looking at a sony xplod that pumps out 500 watts RMS...think that would be good enough for the 10'' cvx? or should i try and get some more rms wattage?
obviously i would need more power for the 12'' cvx since that one takes 750 RMS/1500 Peak, just trying to figure out if i can get away with a few RMS watts under
and i finally figured out the whole ohm thing...well at least i think i did, i figured that for either cvx i would need an amp that pumps max power at 2 ohms, so i could either get the 2ohm cvx or the 4ohm cvx and wire it in parallel
also, this weekend i tried out an enclosed xplod sub, the sub position makes a hell of a difference, because of the size of the box, i could only have it in 2 positions, sub face up or sub face down, i noticed with the sub face down, the sub sounded/felt like it was hitting way harder, weird
If the amp is a mono amp, probably the 2ohm sub will work best. If its a stereo amp that you are running "bridged", you'll probably want the 4ohm. Toss me a link to whatever amp you are going to get, and I'll check it out to see which you need. You are on the right track. A stereo amp "bridged" actually takes whatever load (4ohm in this case) and divides the 4ohm in half and runs 2ohm down each L & R channels. So you have to make sure the amp is 2ohm stereo stable. If not it'll burn up. Mono amps are just one channel so if its 2ohm stable, you need a 2ohm speaker for full power, etc. etc.
The sub downfiring should sound better, because you are loading up the sound against the floor. Kinda like in home theater, they tell you to put your sub in a corner, it loads the pressure waves coming from the sub into the corner walls and as long as it doesnt move the walls, it performs better.
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-There are 10 kinds of people. Those who understand binary, and those who do not. -There's no place like 127.0.0.1
this is the amp im considering, its small and i can get a real good price on it, its a monoblock i believe, and throws out 500 watts RMS at 2ohms which SHOULD be enough for a 10'' kicker CVX wich can handle 600 watts RMS?
if i go for the 12'' i dont think that amp would be enough as the 12'' cvx takes 750 watts RMS
i really hope this amp works well, gonna go check to see if i can fit a 12'' cvx in there tomorrow, the 12'' L5 was a hell no, maybe the round sub can squeeze in there, ill build up the face if i have to like in the pic above, im worried about airspace, well, sort of, ive seen the wonders polyfill can do to a sealed box! i think im gonna have the guy start building the box and hold out on the front part so i can see how much airspace im going to actually have and see if i can actually fit a 12'' round sub in
bah, im weak, i just bought a 10'' CVX on ebay, i really doubt i could fit a 12'' sub, the sub in the pic above is a 10'', well, if anything, im sure i could just build the box up like in the pic in order to fit a 12'' later
Amplifier: Check
Subwoofer: Half Check (has to get here first, lol)
Box: will get started on that during the week hopefully