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That amp's about 42 USD right, at 29 euro? If so thats pretty cheap. I am thinking that power rating is a little overrated. Its probably about 100 RMS. Tha amp should retail around 100 bucks USD. So less than half, is pretty good, probably below cost. Do some research, check some reviews, and listen to them locally if you can.
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-There are 10 kinds of people. Those who understand binary, and those who do not. -There's no place like 127.0.0.1
Yeah, maybe a bit underpowered. The RMS is really what you should be concerned with. Peak/Max/etc. are just usually made up numbers, or this is what the amp did about .2 seconds before it blew up.
This is why I like the name brands. A lot of them went to a CEA-2006 rating. Its a lot better rating system than in the past. Alpine, JBL, JL Audio, Pioneer, Kenwood, Memphis and a host of others pretty much decided they were going to go to this standard of measurement. It keeps the playing field more consistant.
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-There are 10 kinds of people. Those who understand binary, and those who do not. -There's no place like 127.0.0.1
I've been thinking this through for some time and I think I'm on to something now. I don't want to sell the Basslink it cost £46 which is nothing and postage is enormous so I think I'm going to canabalise it and stick it behind here
i bought this for a few quid on ebay and im going to cut a large hole in it and see if i can put the controls in it too. the space behind is ample if i remove the brackets that held the old cd changer. i need to make a box shell at the back and make it rigid and sealed...fiberglass best?
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Last edited by 320de46m47 : 12-09-2007 at 05:57 PM.
Look at the specs for the basslink. I think it may require more space than you have back there. Its a type of free-air woofer, basically meaning it doesnt require a box. It uses the trunk as its enclosure. A typical trunk is around 40 cubic feet. I would think behind that panel you would only have 2-3 cubic feet to make an enclosure, not really sure. If you could get a few wood panels in there (for strength) and fiberglass the curves. You'll have to make sure its stiff enough so it wont rattle your outside panels.
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-There are 10 kinds of people. Those who understand binary, and those who do not. -There's no place like 127.0.0.1
bit confused... the basslink is its own box (plastic) . I opened it up and it has one 10" (i think) speaker in there and on the other side is a thick and equal sized rubber membrane/ flange. the amp sits next to it and dangerously over exposed of course if taken out apart from the controls.
if i took the speaker out of the basslink plastic shell and mounted it on the back of the black carpeted panel, then glued and screwed some 2" x 1" wooden strips around to form a rigid frame behind onto which I build a box would that not work? if the body flaps around i could use some sound deadening material ? the basslink amp will have to sit in the box next to the speaker. so in other words i will have rebuilt the basslink a new case except it wont have the rubber flange at the back...yes i can see that the body panel there would act like the rubber flange if i dont fully enclose it. the thing about this is i would be able to make this new box so that it does fit the space available. the complete basslink would never fit in there of course
Last edited by 320de46m47 : 12-10-2007 at 04:24 AM.
Oh ok, I just went a read a little more about this woofer. It has a 10" woofer and a 10" passive radiator. The radiator is where it gets its deep bass from. It fools the speaker into thinking its in a larger box than it really is. You will want to match the box size .75 cubic feet, and also include that passive radiator in the enclosure somewhere. I am afraid you wont get the same sound if you dont. Thats part of the design. I dont know how it would sound if it werent there.
i tried to see if i could switch speaker with rubber diaphragm (radiator?) but the mating surfaces are different so not possible
ill be doing this in the next few days and posting pics
thanks for all the advice!
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