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Old 06-24-2004, 01:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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e36 HU/speaker/XM/changer/keyless entry DIY Install:

HU install skip to step 1B2.
Speaker install skip to step 4.
KE install skip to step 2-3B.

Step 1A: Remove Aftermarket HU (skip to 1B for factory):

To install XM/changer into your XM/changer ready HU you need to remove the HU. To do so, remove the face place and trim ring from the HU. You will then be able to acess the retaining pins/screws/whatever your HU uses to stay in place.If you are reading this in an attempt to do it, I assume you will know how to remove your radio. Here's mine dangling out of the dash.

Figure 1


There will be some kind of plug on the back. Plug you new cord into it and move on to step two.

Step 1B1: Factory Radio XM/Changer install:

If you have the factory radio and aren't using a wireless controller, then this is for you. You can mount the controller wherever you please, but most people use the storage area. You will need to remove the OBC (done by sliding a creit card above and/or below and press on it from behind. To do so, put your fingers in the hole underneath it and press it out after the credit cards are in place). The storage area pulls out. Drill a hole in the back for the wires to run through, pull the wire though it, and put it back in place after completing step 2.

Step 1B2: Removing Factory HU.

If you are reading this to install a new HU, this is how you remove the factory one.

Remove the factory unit by unscrewing the allen bolts behind the flaps on the front of the HU with an 8mm hex key, then disconnect harness and antenna lead. Plug the adapter harness (sold separately) into factory harness. The adapter harness connects to your new HU's harness. You can solder the connections between the wires (simply match the colors) or use butt connectors. Attach antenna adapter (sold separately) to antenna lead.

Slide mounting sleeve included with the HU into the dash. Bend the tabs back to secure it in placeand then connect harness and antenna. Slide your new HU into place unitl it clicks and does not move forward. Pop trim ring into place around the faceplate.

You're done.

Step 2: Remove the glovebox:

Removing the glox box is easy. You need to remove 8 screws and a bolt. If you get on the floor, you will see two screws connecting the lower dash and the lower trim. Take them out. Then open the glove box. You will have four screws here. Two are on the top where the door closes, the other at an angle by the bottom of the door. These are hard to get at, so make sure you have a small screwdriver handy. The final screws are located in the upper right and left hand corners of the AC vents. Then, pop out the light in the glove box. There is a bolt above it. I took it out awhile ago and didnt put it back in. Try 10mm, 13mm, or 15mm. Its probably one of those 3. Now simply pull forward. You can disconnect the light and flashlight charger and fully remove the glovebox from the car for more work area. Refer to figure 2 to see what you should see.

Step 3A: Routing your XM/Changer cables:

If you're routing your cable from the HU, slide your hand in the slot and push the cable to the right. There will be a small opening you can get it through that leads to glove box area. If you are mounting from the OBC area, it is the same. Find a suitable gap, and slide the wires though. Pull most of the slack out and reinstall your HU or OBC. Here you can see the Ai-Net cbale coming through from the left.

Figure 2


Continue to route the wire to the other side of the box and run it into the speaker area. Skip to step 4 for trim removal.

Step 3B: Keyless Eentry install:

With the glovebox off, you can see the alarm port. It is the unused port way in the lower back left in figure 2. Your OE or stellar KE/alarm plugs into that port. Make sure you code learn the transmitter. You're done. Reassemble.

Step 4: Removing kick panel trim:

To remove the trim, take a flathead screwdriver and rotate the circle thing with the slot in it (it's a screw, for those of you who might not know what I'm a talking about). Then, grab the trim on the front and pull, while pushing on it from the rear. It takes a big of wiggling, but the trim will come out. The procedure is the same for the driver's side, but you will need to remove the hood latch with a screwdriver.

Figure 3


Step 5A: Removing speakers:

Pretty stright forward. There will be four 6mm hex screws. Reomve them and the speakers come out. Disconnect the spade connectors from the terminals, and attach them to the new speaker. The big one is + and the small one is -. Install speaker and reinstall trim.

For the rear speakers, the grill pops off, giving you access to the screws that hold it in place. You should know what to do from here.

Step 5B: Routing cable:

Also pretty straight forward. Make sure the cable isn't over the speaker and isn't where the trim secures into the body. Reinstall trim.

Step 6: Door sill:

Now you need to run the wire under the dorr sill. You can take it off, or try to stuff the wire underneath. I took mine off. Either pry it up from the side or slide it off, then remove the retaining clips. The piece is designed to slide on the tabs, and isn't hard to remove. See Figure 4 below.



Step 7: Door Column

Pull up on the edges and stuff the cable under. Continue this process until its underneath all the way across.

Figure 5


Step 8: Rear Door Sill:

This pops off in a similar manner as the front.

Step 9: Rear seat:

The rear seat simply lifts off. Give it a good yank up on the left corner and right corner and you can pull it out. The upright portion remove by pulling on it (much harder) in the top right and left corners. Once it pops out, lift up and slide around the seatbelts. you might not have to remove the upright portion, but it makes it easier. Also, if it has never been removed, there may be some 8mm bolts holding it in place behind the seatbelt latch. These have to be removed also.
Now you have plenty of room to work.

Figure 6


Step 10: Cable routing:

In between the seat is a small hole. You can use this to route your cables. Simply lift the flap and remove the rubber seal. Replace the seal after you've put the cables thoughand pulled all the slack out. This also a good spot to run RCAs and remote turn ons.

Figure 7

Figure 8


Step 11: Trunk:

Remove the backtrim in the trunk by pulling on it. You can unscrew it too by turning the plastic retainer things, but that takes too long.

Figure 9


Now plug the end of your cable into the device and power it following the manufacturers reccomendations.

Step 12: XM antenna:

If you are installing an XM device, you need to mount the antenna. Center it on your roof and apply it by peeling back the adhesives. Run the cable in the drain around the rear window. When you come to the trunk area, pull up the weather stripping and cut a small channel for the cable. I used a dremel, but a file will also work. Seal with silicone to prevent leaks and wire chaffing.
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