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Can someone please help me identify some of the wires on the ignition harness.
I have a BMW E30 320i 1989.
The wires i have are:
Red = 12V
Black = Start
Purple = Accessory
Green1 = (presuming ignition)
Green2 = (not sure)
white1 = (not sure, constant 12v with DMM)
white2 = (not sure, constant 12v with DMM)
I have hooked up a remote starter and it works how it should, just that i am having only one problem.
The problem i am having is when i remote start the car only, the check light on the cluster that flashes and disapeers when you press the brake pedal does not disapeer as when you start the car with the key, even when i put the key in the ignition and press the pedal it still remains on, just wondering did i miss anything or you guys have any suggestions on what it could be.
The light would disapear if i start the car and press the brake normally but.
On the relay box for the remote starter i have the following wires.
Wire: - Connected to:
12V - Red
Acc - Purple
Ign1 - Green
Ign2 - Green
Start - Black
Still trying to elliminate problem i am having, any suggestions anyone?
I have double checked the wiring, the only problem i am seeing is that the remote start module activates the accessory wire after the car is started( purple wire), can this cause a problem with the onboard diag comp.
As stated above the computer will indicate a fault on the board (brake lights), which normally would disapeer with the brake pedal pressed, but will not disapeer when remote starting it.
You have to diode isolate the brake lights and left and right parking lights when remote starting the car, and you DO have to pulse them when you start the car and have power running to them otherwise the check bulb light for any/all of thsoe will illuminate even though the bulbs themselves are working.
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger BROWN/VIOLET (-) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL AT DOME DELAY RELAY
Trunk Trigger BROWN/BLACK (-) AT TRUNK LIGHT
Hood Trigger N/A
Alarm Disarm N/A
Parking Lights GRAY/YELLOW L (+) GRY/WHT R AT LIGHT SWITCH
ALSO (+) GRAY/WHITE-DIODE ISOLATE
Convenience
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo YELLOW/GREEN (-) AT LIGHT SWITCH
Wipers-Lo BLACK/RED (-) AT WIPER SWITCH
Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 VIOLET (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Descript NONE
Tachometer BLACK (-) AT DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
Speed Sense BROWN/RED (AC) REAR AXLE
Parking Lights GRAY/YELLOW L (+) GRY/WHT R AT LIGHT SWITCH
ALSO (+) GRAY/WHITE-DIODE ISOLATE
Brake Lights GREEN/RED (+) AT BRAKE SWITCH
Reverse Lights BLUE/WHITE (+) AT REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH
Horn BROWN/YELLOW (-) AT STEERING COLUMN
Modules
WIRE LOCATION
Please select another category
Doorlocks/Windows
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Power Unlock GREEN/BLUE (-) NEGATIVE TRIGGER
PowerLock YELLOW/BLUE (-) DRIVER'S KICK SPK "KEEP RELAYS UPRIGHT"
__________________ When you fight, you don't fight for abstract values like the flag, or the nation, or democracy. You fight for your buddy. You fight to keep him alive, and he fights to keep you alive, and you go on that way, day after day, battle after battle. And when one of your buddies dies, something inside you dies as well. But you go on. You fight, so that his death isn't meaningless, his sacrifice isn't for nothing.
-Dick Marcinko
You have to diode isolate the brake lights and left and right parking lights when remote starting the car, and you DO have to pulse them when you start the car and have power running to them otherwise the check bulb light for any/all of thsoe will illuminate even though the bulbs themselves are working.
When you mean diode isolate the connections is that putting a diode in series with the wires from the alarm to the indicator lights?
How does this work on the brake lights as they are not connected to the alarm?
And btw i am pulsing the the brake lights to turn off the warning when remote starting and it wont go away, i think it could be because there is not accessory power going to the switch when remote starting the car, (only when the car has started the relay will give power to the accesory connection), i can not think of another possible alternative unless i rewire the starting relay module for the remote starter to give power when initially starting the car.
If you add a relay to the ignition output of your remote starter and power up your accessory wire in the car, that may take care of it. Have you taken your DMM and checked that wire to make sure its actually accessory and not ignition? Its not common, (especially not on these cars), but I have seen the wiring colors not match what the wiring color codes say they are. I dont think you can just jump the accessory wire and the ignition. You will need to add a relay to keep them seperated from one another, that way the car will function as normal.
__________________
-There are 10 kinds of people. Those who understand binary, and those who do not. -There's no place like 127.0.0.1
If you add a relay to the ignition output of your remote starter and power up your accessory wire in the car, that may take care of it. Have you taken your DMM and checked that wire to make sure its actually accessory and not ignition? Its not common, (especially not on these cars), but I have seen the wiring colors not match what the wiring color codes say they are. I dont think you can just jump the accessory wire and the ignition. You will need to add a relay to keep them seperated from one another, that way the car will function as normal.
Hi,
I just had a look at it again, all connections for the starter have a relay already attached to the wires. The alarm has an connection that detects if a illigal start has occured. I have jumped the accessory wire to see what would happen if the power to accessory is there before starting the car, the problem is that the alarm will go off. The only way around this that i can figure out is to either bypass the illigal start issue or i have to make a module that will time out the illigal start problem when remote starting.
The accessory lead usually is activated after the car is running and the ignition is supposed to come on before. What I am thinking is the accessory lead in the car needs to have power before the car is started. But you will need to add a second relay on the ignition to keep the car operating as normal. Just a thought. Curious to know the outcome. Your car is a very simple circuit under the dash, I cant think why the difficulty. There is no transponder security like the newer ones have.
__________________
-There are 10 kinds of people. Those who understand binary, and those who do not. -There's no place like 127.0.0.1
Yea the car starts and runs perfectly, there is no problem with that.
The only probem was the onboard check board indicates a fault all the time only when remote starting, it will not disapeer like normal when you press the brake.
i will let you know soon when i have solved the problem.
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