Quote:
Originally posted by hocuzanden@Apr 27 2005, 10:09 PM
i have a 10" nakamichi subwoofer and an aura force 250-A amp. on one side there is a power in with ground, REM (idk what that is), and +12V; a 30A fuse; and a "bridged" speaker output with L and R, but there are four connections (i'm guessing for two separate subs?). and on the opposite side of the amp is an RCA "low imput" with L and R; a level dial; and something for the crossover--a three position switch with low, flat and high; and another dial with frequency (50Hz-200Hz); and one more dial for bass boost (55Hz) form 0dB to +8dB.
is this a good amp, cause i really have no idea. all i'm looking for is to enhance my listening experience, not have the best system in the world.
thanks for the help. i hope i'm not wasting your time with what i'm sure seem like non-issues.
-zach
[snapback]338633[/snapback] |
I'm not sure of the quality of the amplifier, but it should work. It sounds to me like you are just starting out. The best thing to do for now is to head to an audio store you can trust, tell them you need an amp install kit. This kit will include a set of RCA cables, power, ground, fuse holder, etc. and a relatively easy set of instructions to follow. You will also need a line level convertor.
There will probably be a number of sizes to choose from. An 8 ga. kit is what you need. It may be a tad bigger than what you need for that amplifier, but you wont have to buy it again when you want to upgrade the amplifier later on down the road.
First things first, dont ever install one of these without the included fuse holder. This is REALLY cheap insurance for you car. If something happens to the wire, it will just blow the fuse. Without the fuse, the wire can actually get hot enough to burn your carpet, possibly even catch on fire.
The main power wire will go to the positive post on the battery. AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS POSSIBLE, install the fuse holder. On the back side of the fuse, run it to the amplifiers positive lead (12V, BATT, etc.).
The ground needs to be a short as possible, and you probably want to scrape some paint away from a hidden spot and screw the ground wire down. Make sure there is nothing underneath, that you will be drilling through. Dont use a factory bolt, unless it has its own ground wires coming off of it. Any other bolts are probably painted, or have a sealer on the threads that wont allow a good ground through. This is where the ground screw on your amplifier goes.
The REM (or remote) lead goes to a place in the fuse panel that turns on/off with the key. An aftermarket radio has a blue/white wire (typically) that turns on/off with the radio. The factory radio has this as well, but I dont like using that, because your amplifier may or may not draw too much current for that circuit on the factory radio.
Whatever line level convertor that shop carries will have instructions. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Look at the back of the speaker and see if says something about 4 ohms (not dual 4 ohms, or 2). If it is you can use the bridged output of the amp, and dont hook anything to the remaining 2 speaker leads. If it is 2ohms, hook it to either the left or the right channels (it doesnt matter which one). Set the crossover to about 80hz, and the gain to about 2/3. Thats kind of a good start and you can fine tune it from there.
Hope that helps.....
-SOLD..
Linear Mode
