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Old 01-14-2005, 10:59 AM   #1 (permalink)
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So I was taking out my subwoofer to lighten up my ride for an auto-x this weekend and as i was taking them out the (+) and (-) terminals that plug into the back of my sub from the amplifier dropped into my wheel well and both terminals touched the (+) terminal of my battery. I heard them spark but didn't think anything of it. However, when i turned my radio on the speakers now emit a loud, extremely loud, pop and there is no music just a very loud screeching/wailing sound that makes you want to pull your hair out coming from the speakers. I'm pretty sure it's my amp as that is the only thing that really could have happened. I have taken out my sub numerous times and this has never happened.

Do you know if this is repairable? or should i start looking into a new amp? Or could this be a different problem all together. Thanks all
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Old 01-15-2005, 08:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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First off, always disconnect your +pos lead on your battery when messing with amps. I know that's not what you want to hear, but maybe this will save someone else reading this in the future.

Does your sub amp stull work? If so, yeah, start shopping for a new amp. Sux, sorry.

This is somewhat suprising though, JL makes ok stuff, I would think you would pop a fuse before it would blow. It might be worth an audio shop to bench test it, just to make sure.
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I actually tried my friends amp, the exact same one, and it caused the same problems so i dont think it's the amp. Here is my new problem with the system, but this all stems from the time i took out the sub.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This problem just started happening. Prior, everything was working perfectly. The last thing i remember doing was taking out my subs before an auto-x, but obviously something else has happened. Everytime I turn on my head unit there is a loud pop coming from all the speakers. Along with a lot of whining and distortion, but some music can be heard. This is all while the engine is off and the key is turned to the accessories on position (halfway).

If I turn the key all the way, but do not crank the engine the whine and distortion gets a little louder. If I start the car the whining/static/distortion is extremely loud and nothing else can be heard, even on the lowest volume setting except 0. When i switch the setting from tuner, to cd, to 6 disk there is a loud pop every time.

I took out the amp and put in a differnt one and I had the same problem, so I don't think it's the amplifier. I used differnt RCA cables and still the same problem. If i unplug the RCA cables from the amp there is no pop or whining (obviously because there is no signal) but i did this to see if i was getting interference from the other wiring. What else can I do before I take apart the entire system, even though I already took apart half of it? Could it be the head unit?

Again, I have never had a problem with my system before but now all i hear is an obnoxiously loud whining and popping sounds and barely any music. if the engine is running i hear absolutely no music just noise. Please help, anything and everything is appreciated.
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Old 01-15-2005, 10:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You have removed the oem amp, right? How is your 4ch amp hooked up. are you using the amp leads from the oem amp location. New speaker wire? Do you have coax in the kicks? How are your 4 channels of amplification divided.
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Old 01-15-2005, 11:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally posted by jllphan@Jan 15 2005, 08:33 PM
You have removed the oem amp, right? How is your 4ch amp hooked up. are you using the amp leads from the oem amp location. New speaker wire? Do you have coax in the kicks? How are your 4 channels of amplification divided.
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OEM amp is gone. the 4 channel amp has 2 channels to the front and 2 to the rear. The components are in the the kick with the tweet in the door and the coax is in the 3.5" mid location. The Diamond Audio has a "rear fill" feature on the crossover that i plug the coaxials into, and total impedance is still 4ohms. I use the preamp outs fromt the headunit -> amp -> speakers. Power is wired from battery -> batcap -> amp. The batcap acts as a distribution block to the two amps, both of which are fused seperatley. All the speaker wire is brand new 12 guage wire. Power wire is all 4 awg. the RCA cables are Monster 401XLN. 3 digital fuse blocks total, 1 from battery to capacitor, and 2 from capacitor to each amp. The HU is also grounded separatley to the firewall.

What else?
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Old 01-15-2005, 11:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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mmmmm....

well, an amp is amp. It's gonna take whatever signal it's being sent, and...amplify it. The way you origionally described the issue, it sounded like your amp was creating some type of noise(created by the origional surge) that was being amplified. But apparently it's getting that horrible noise via the RCA's. If you say you tried different RCA's, then I would have to guess it's originating from the head unit.

The only other test you might perform would necessitate you owning a portable CD player, iPod (or some MP3 player), or any other portable device with a headphone out. You can buy a headphone to RCA cable for 5bucks at Radio shack. Power up the amp with the RCA's disconnected from the HU, and jack your portable audio device to it. Of course start with the volume level turned down, as some of these devices will have a relatively high output voltage (your JL amp should be rated @4volt RCA in at least I'm sure).

This will determine if, there is something between the amp location and the speakers that is creating that horrible noise as well as proving that the signal being sent from the HU is the culprit.
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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looks like the first thing tomorrow i'm heading to radio shack to buy a headphone to rca adaptor. I also need to test continuity between the RCA shield and the HU. I'm pretty sure all the wiring is ok, so hopefully with a new HU it will be plug-n-play as long as I stick with Pioneer. Thanks for all your help.

What do you think maybe causing the Poping sound on power up? How can all of this damage be caused by removing a sub or the leads touching a battery? or do you think it was a fluke? Anyays, i'm open to any other suggestions. Thanks again
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, I do stick to the advice I gave on the first line of the first post I made in this thread. Electicity is weird the way it flows, it's like an escape mental patient, it tries to go anywhere it can :P

If indeed it is your headunit I'm still suprised that it didn't pop a fuse first. That's what they're there for, power surges. I guess it would make sense though, due to the smaller power leads to the HU, and the lower amp fuse it posesses, it would probably go before the amp would. Still seems wierd.

BTW, make sure you get the cable not the adaptor. It's usually about a three foot cable that has a headphone jack on one end, and a set of RCA's on the other. This will give you a little room to work.

Lastly, I so dig your whip. I'm very partial to Black, but the more I look at your ride, the more I think silver and BBS is in my future : Silver has always been my second favorite color on a BImmer, it's getting to be a very close second.
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Old 01-19-2005, 12:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the props on my ride jllphan. Before my 325is i used to drive a black on black 540i, but i wanted to move on to a more sportier silver bmw. Now in some ways i regret getting silver because it seems like everyone and their mother drive a silver car. oh well, at least i can say i got it before the silver craze. I really like the look of the new metallic charcoal. I see an M3 or M5 in that color in the near future.

Anyways, I got the adaptor you spoke of earlier and tested my system with my MP3 player and it was music to my ears. Everything worked perfectly. No speaker pop, but more importantly no loud screeching/wailing even while the engine is running. So thank you for your help on that. I think i know what happened. I have four fans total blowing over my various components to keep them cool. They are connected to a relay via remote wire to turn on only when the system is on. Because of the cold weather I unplugged the relay so my fans wouldn't turn on, but I unplugged them from the remote turn on switch. My entire car is lined with dynamat extreme which i'm sure you know has a metal backing. Needless to say the metal backing touches some parts of the chassis therefore making the entire deading material a gound source. So, i believe the remote turn on wire, because it was unplugged, touched the dynamat extreme while the unit was on which completed the (+) to (-) circuit with nothing in between and fried my deck. All I can say is atleast it wasn't my amps. The fuse on the deck is still intact so i'm sure the deck must me repaired or replaced.

My next issue is do you know it it is possible to get my deck repaired? or must I purchase a new one? It is not under warranty as I got the unit from a friend who hooked me up and i obvioulsy can't return it. Also, do shops exist where they repair decks or must i send it to Pioneer?
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Old 01-19-2005, 10:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Honestly, your probably better off replacing the head unit. Pioneer won't touch it if it's out of waranty, so you will left with a local certified repair center. They will charge you roughly $50 to bench test it, and then about that an hour to fix it. You will easily run up a $100+ bill, and could have the same component fail again.

If you wish to make replacemnt easy, I would buy another HU by the same manufacturer.

I'm curious though, is your fuse on the back of your deck, or is it inline on the power lead? If it's inline on the constant lead, that would make sense as to why your deck blew. If it's on the back of the deck, I'm curious as to whether the proper fuse was being used.
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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the fuse is on the back of the unit. I just bought another unit, same exact one, and checked the back of it and it's the same fuse. So, i'm not sure how it failed but it did. I've called a few certified places and they charge $20 just to diagnose and bench test. But, if i get it replaced with them then the $20 goes towards the repairs. I think i'm going to have them check it out so i know what's wrong. If repair costs are more than around $75 then i'm just going to keep the new HU.
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