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| Originally posted by jllphan@Feb 27 2005, 07:33 PM |
Yes a new amp would help things out, but I might attack the problem from different direction.
Oem audio systems work well enough, but they don't play well with aftermarket components. You are currently trying to run a factory speaker system, with four channels of aftermarket power. This is not a happy marriage.
As you currnetly have several speakers, you would need one heck of an amp to run them all. Instead, I would recomend aftermarket speakers. This will do several things. First, your head unit will be able to power them better, because they will come with crossovers that will reduce the load currently being place on your indash CD player. Secondly, they will give you the potential to get far better sound compared to what you once had with the stock system. You will also save some money, as an amp and installation can be very pricey. Keep in mind, new speakers and a new amp to power them would be the best of both worlds, but that can get very expensive very quickly. As for speakers, check out Infinity, PolkAUdio, and MBQuart. They all make great stuff for the money.
| Originally posted by gfowler@Mar 11 2005, 11:34 AM |
Thanks for the advice! I meant to post this reply sooner, but have been away.
I'll go the route you suggest, trying the speakers first. As for my speaker situation: From what I gather, there are a total of 8 speakers in my car, two in front (kick panel) two in back, and the midrange & tweeters in the doors. One of my midranges in blown, bad distortion. The tweeters have their outer (grill) rings breaking apart so I feel like ordering new ones from BMW just because they look bad (eyesore). If I get 4 new "main" speakers, should they be single cone or coaxial? Should I still use the door speakers, (have them wired/operational) or just the tweeters or midrangers? I'd have to buy at least one new midranger from BMW if so, because of the blown one. Finally, what amp(s) would be sufficient to power these if I also got an amp, after the new speakers? Final note: My CD player in my new head unit is presently getting very hot (ejected CDs come out VERY warm), so I see what you mean about the need for reducing the load on it. Is this what the "crossovers" you're referring to would correct with new speakers?
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