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Old 12-04-2011, 11:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi Guys

Looking to beg borrow or hire tools to remove and replace rear sub frame bushings on 1989 E34 525i

The puller is 008550 but there seem to be many other bits too.

Are these tools absolutely necessary?

Any alternative ideas for this job?
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Dabsy can probably give you some tricks on some generic suitable tools for what you are doing.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Lol, I would try a heavy hammer and large socket to "drift" it out... Really depends on how much room you have to work in... And get a friend to help. ;-)
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Old 12-07-2011, 01:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dabsy View Post
Lol, I would try a heavy hammer and large socket to "drift" it out... Really depends on how much room you have to work in... And get a friend to help. ;-)
Yes I like that. Quite practical!

I was thinking I might try to put something between the body and the axle carrier then jack the axle carrier up to push out the bush

I don't know how much room I can get between the body and carrier once I get the bolt out. I will let you know how I get on.

I have a friend with a hoist in his garage at home. Very handy. (Yes it's a big garage)
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Good luck and keep us informed... Take some progress pics too !!
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Special Tools HaHaHaHaHa!

Hi all

Long time since last post

Got zero pics 'coz all were done on son's phone which apparently pooped itself. Pity I quite liked the (special) tool we made out of some 8 mm aluminium plate, a threaded rod and some nuts to replace the rear sub-frame bushes

Can't remember if I replied somewhere else (getting old)

Special tools used were
To compress spring on pcv tube ------- 2 cable ties
To remove rear sub-frame bushes ------- Right angle compressed air drill, hacksaw blade in holder, chisel and big hammer (thanks Dabsy)
Dog bones were easy
Since then with extreme confidence in the above method have replaced
Lower control arms (pickle fork GOOD)
Torque links (on end of torsion bar on front end) --- needed a thin spanner to avoid damaging boots
Radius arm bushes ---------- hacksaw etc again
Steering idler bush ----------same same
(Although we have a mate with a garage and a 10 ton press which helped)

and finally outer tie rod ends -------- actually borrowed a proper tie rod end breaker for this.

To all the people who told me you had to hit the mounting to break the taper out --- It didn't seem too effective after 23 years in place.

I actually found some dust boots locally which almost fit on the radius arm ends. Had to use wire to fasten them in place as the old springs were too tight and the new ones too loose.

Car now drives like it is on rails and the wheel aligner is happy (couldn't do it last time as the struts kept moving when the weight went on them)

Son seems happy only he can't afford to register it at the moment

My own car had some problems which seem to have gone away after replacing crank and cam sensors (but I can't prove that was the problem)

Hope all is well and you motors are running well

Mal
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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What can't be fixed with fencing wire is truly beyond repair!
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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What can't be fixed with fencing wire is truly beyond repair!
LOL Have to be an Aussie to get that one!

There is a great deal of info out on the web about the E34, and the fact that they are not complicated helps too
I would hate to have one of the new ones.
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