>>>i figure i shorted the temp sending unit and now i need to replace the temp gauge sending unit. what input voltage does it hook up too???
<<< voltage to make the temperature circuit work is provided at the guage end. There is no need to input a voltage(if u do, your temp guage will blow and you do not want that)
the temp sender is what we call a THERMISTOR. It is designed to provide resistance when cold, and offer little or no resistance when hot.
The false or "lesser" readings u get on your guage almost always ponts to a faulty sender ;-)
>>>also on a different note... does the idle control module have an ignition supply control??
<<< idle control module gets it's voltage from the ECU/ECM(injection brain).
* Temp GUAGE alone has nothing to do with idle, believe me... it works on an independent circuit.
HERE's WHAT YOU CAN DO: (if u still havent lost patience)
Disconnect ALL the sensors on the thermostat head.
Disconnect your IDLE CONTROL VALVE(the cylindrical one)
Disconnect your Throttle Switch(that black thingie under your throttle body)
start the car. WITHOUT any electrics connected, your idle should be 750RPM (warm engine) In any case your idle IS NOT in the 750RPM range, your problem is mechanical & not electronic...
mechanical meaning... adjust the idle screw until you achieve 750 rpm & if you cannot achieve a stable 750... then start looking for vacuum leaks.
***so you are thinking of going back to the 5 series?... if you are looking pre-92 models.. you'll be surprised. engine and electrics are virtually the same ;-)
__________________ ay sino caddi ububblaem?   Heaven won't take me; and Hell just knows I'll take over...! | 
