5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
Not sure if this has been posted before apologies if it has I'v just joined the forum.
I've just bought a new set of 18" M parallel wheels and they are very cool there fitted with 235/40R18 at the front mounted on a 18x8 and 265/35R18 at the rear mounted on 18x9.5 All zr rated.
Problem I have when I was driving on the motorway I noticed strong vibrations at 50mph and 70mph only (other speeds was smooth) through the steering rack and on the seats. First thing I thought was balancing.
So I took it to my local garage and they re-did the balancing. It went fine 50mph was smooth with no steering rack vibrations but when I went to 70 mph the strong vibrations is still felt through the seats and felt like the car is juddering.
Is it to do with the different tires sizes I have? ie 235/40front and 265/35rear
Someone please help cause this is driving me insane.
E39s have notoriously hard-to-balance wheels, and the larger wheel/tire combo only exacerbates the problem. That said I can suggest exploring a couple of things:
1) I've read that a worn control arm bushing (particularly the large, pressed-in one in front lower control arm on the I-6) can cause a shimmy at certain speeds (check 540i6.com "Common Problems & Fixes")
2) Many aftermarket rims can be lug-centric, whereas OEM wheels are often hub-centric, resulting in impossible-to-balance rims. The only solution I know to this one is to purchase hub adapter rings to make your aftermarket rims essentially hub-centric. I've checked and I know that Summit Racing sells these, but you will need to know the O.D. of your car's hubs and the I.D. of each wheels' hub. Fortunately they're cheap, but not everyone owns vernier calipers for such fine measurements.
3) Also, make sure your hub and rim mating surfaces are completely cleaned off and rust-free, using brake cleaner and fine sandpaper. Then apply a fine film of CV joint or axle grease to your hub surface prior to re-mounting the rim. This will give you the best fit and facilitate removal of the rim next time.
__________________ <span style='colorurple'>Eric S.</span>
2006 Honda Odyssey EXL-RES
2006 Honda Accord V6 EX-L Sedan
1999 BMW 540i 6-Speed (Sold to M3UOND on 9/21/06)
1991 Honda Civic Si - Occasional Beater
Eric, I don't know if you know this but I read somewhere that the torque apply to mount the tires has been increased in some cases to fix this problem. I'm looking for it on the net... Anyway, thought I would share this with you guys.
I put my old wheels back on, the standard turbine alloys with 225/55/16 all round luckily I haven't sold them yet.
Then went on the motorway and cruised at 70mph no problem it was as smooth as silk as you would expect from a BMW. So this eliminates any problems with the cars suspension, control arms, bushes, cv joints, springs, dampers etc.
It cant be the alloys cause there brand new got them 3 days ago and I saw them beeing assembled out of the box they came in and the tyres are brand new as well.
And I've had it balanced twice first time when they assembled the wheels and second time when I took it the a local garage.
So next port of call. Can anybody recommend tyre pressures for 235/40/18 and 265/35/18 I got a sneaky suspicion that they are the same all round. I've looked in the car manual but it only gives figures for upto 17".
If that fails then the only problem would be the lug nuts. My car is 1999 reg which I think, might of used heavier lug nuts back then than they do today. And cause I'm re-using my old locking nuts ( saves me having to pay for another set ) which originally came with the car, there mixed with the brand new lug nuts that came with the wheels. Which could be chucking the wheels off balance.
So when I get some tyre psi figures I'll try that, then if it doesn't work I'll put on my old lug nuts.
yeah that is possible, but he could have purchased the same aftermarket OEM replicas rims I have, which are hub-centric. Mine, however, are smooth all the way to 120+mph....: uh, i meant 70mph, that is the speed limit, right?
Not all aftermarket wheels are manufactured to the same quality.
So it doesn't mean if they are brand new out of the box, they will run straight. That's why I was asking winters how his ran, good for him he got a set of good quality aftermarket's. I've heard stories of poorly manufactured aftermarket wheels.
So, what I'm saying is it could "possibly" be the new wheels.
It's lowered by 30mm not 40mm because here in the UK we have some massive speed bumps enough to break your back, also light blue smoke tints, a superchip has been added giving an extra 14bhp not that it needs it but I do find the flats spots at 1000rpm are annoying and this sorts it out.
Hope you guys like it.
Last edited by monkeyman54; 05-27-2006 at 11:37 AM.
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