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Folks i just started noticing one thing about my 99 540i, when i put it in Reverse, it responds after i press the gas in some sluggish way and than goes fine. Is this delay normal? Other gear shifts are normal. Though i sometimes get a slight jerk when putting in reverse but not often. My car has automatic tranny and has done 85k.
It sounds like it might be time to look at a fluid change. I didn't have that exact issue but others have. My symptoms were quite difficult to pinpoint, the car when under very light load in top (5th) would drop 50 - 100 rpm for a seond and then recover with a droning noise associated in time with the drop and recovery. After having the oil and filter changed by a Auto Trans specialist who ran diagnostics and visually inspected the gear box as part of the service (no faults found) the problem disappeared totally. The guy was surprised when I rang him back the next day because he told me that he thought that the issue was ECU or engine related and that he hadn't been able to fault the transmission. All I know is that a fluid and filter change made a difference and my car had done 137000km when I bought it, and its got 170000km on it now.
Some of the other folks that have had similar issues have resolved their respective issues with additional or fresh oil and filter. Good luck
Thanks for the advice. I will have it checked with my mechanic. Yes it might need oil and filter change. But one thing is that maybe the whole tranny oil wont go out in one shot. I heard it takes 4 to 5 times to drain all old oil. Is this true and how to remove the old oil.
A specialist Auto Trans shop will have a device that joins the oil flow path at the return line from the transmission cooler, by disconnecting the return line and then starting the car the oil pumps out of the car via the torque converter, then fresh oil is pumped back in. It might not get it all, but its better than 90%. The other option without using this method is to drain the pan and then remove it (which you still need to do with the afore mentioned method) to access the filter, but the pan method alone leaves the torque converter full of old oil, which I think holds roughly the same amount as the gearbox and pan. Find a good specialist shop with the right tools and they should be able to do a good job for you. Mine did the change, oil and filter for under $250 AUS, and that was using the correct synthetic oil which isn't cheap.
Had the same job done on my Mitsi HSGR with similar symptoms. The oil was turning orange so was on the way out. I'm not sure if the local guys did a complete flush but it has made a difference.
I used the particular recommended Mitsubishi SP3 oil. Apparently Dexron destroys Mitsi auto boxes.
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