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#1 (permalink) Old 04-11-2005, 11:18 AM
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hello all,
last night i had my first real problem with my 5er. i started overheating bad. stopped for about an hour to let the carr cool off. started going again when the temp was in the blue. made it less than 5 miles and it was overheating again. the andifreeze was full and so id the motor oil. im guessing the thermostat is bad. i ended up blowing the radiator as well in my efforts to make it home. i found a radiator already and i know i can replace that on my own but i am not sure how to replace the thermostat and even where it is located. the car is a 525 with an m50 motor. if anyone can let me know where and how to change the thermostat i would be greatly appreciative. pics would be even better if at all possible.
thanks in advance
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-11-2005, 02:19 PM
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[attachmentid=20981]driver side of cylinder head, top hose going to it, bleeder screw on top. Also check the fan clutch.
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by njtech@Apr 11 2005, 02:19 PM
[attachmentid=20981]driver side of cylinder head, top hose going to it, bleeder screw on top. Also check the fan clutch.
[snapback]330135[/snapback]
mine looks nothing like that. i didnt see a bleeder valve on mine. that pic looks like a 3 series motor to me. i did find the thermostat. i replaced my therm and my radiator. just got finished actually. long day. i filled up the fluid and let the car run for a while and it started overheating again after about 15 minutes at idle. ghead you mentioned checking the fan clutch. how do you do that? what do you look for? im trying really hard not to have to bring it to the dealership cuz im pretty broke... especially after paying for the new radiator. thanks a lot for your help
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#4 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 01:14 AM
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the fan clutch is failry easy to check. start the car when it is cold and see if the clutch is disengauged. you should be able to stop the fan with your hand but be careful with that. and let it warm up and make sure that the ckutch engauges when it gets hot. however if the thermostat isn't opening then the clutch won't engauge because it goes off the air temp from the rad. you might check that you have flow in the system from the water pump. and also make sure ther are no air pockets in the cooling system. did you take all the bleeder screws out when you filled up the engine after the rad. install?

another thing, i don't mean to sound like i'm insulting your inteligence but did you make sure to install the thermosta correctly if it was put in backwards it would not open. and on some there is actualla top and bottom, they usually have arrows to show top and bottom.
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bryan1970@Apr 12 2005, 01:14 AM
the fan clutch is failry easy to check. start the car when it is cold and see if the clutch is disengauged. you should be able to stop the fan with your hand but be careful with that. and let it warm up and make sure that the ckutch engauges when it gets hot. however if the thermostat isn't opening then the clutch won't engauge because it goes off the air temp from the rad. you might check that you have flow in the system from the water pump. and also make sure ther are no air pockets in the cooling system. did you take all the bleeder screws out when you filled up the engine after the rad. install?

another thing, i don't mean to sound like i'm insulting your inteligence but did you make sure to install the thermosta correctly if it was put in backwards it would not open. and on some there is actualla top and bottom, they usually have arrows to show top and bottom.
[snapback]330594[/snapback]
noi didnt even think there would be a top and bottom to the thermostat. it was not put in backwards i put it in just as the other one came out. it was dark and late when i did it. how much difference will it make if it is upsideown? also i did not open any bleeder because i didnt see any bleeder valve. the pic showed it onm the top of the therm housing but there is not one on mine. where would they be located? also how do you check that there is flow in the system? thanks again for all the help. i really appreciate it
jonny b
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 11:25 AM
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ok i checked the old therm and there is no marlking on it as to up or down so im hoping that is the case with the new one. i also checked the fan clutch. it is disengaged when cold and its disengaged hot as well. but i dont thing theres any flow because the coolant temp in the radiator is cold so that may be why the fan clutch wont engage
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#7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2005, 01:39 PM
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for some reason i'm having a case of brain fade i can't remember exactly where the bleeder screws are on that engine. but there is usually one on the radiator. do you fill the cooling sytem in the expansion tank up near the windshield or is it actually on the rad? sometimes there is a bleeder screw/s on the thermostat housing.

you can check for flow at, where ever it is on your car, the expansion tank where you fill the engine will coolant. take the cap off and start the engine. run the engine at about 2000-3000RPM and there should be a stream of coolant shooting from the opening of the expansion tank into the tank. that is how you bleed the system too. even if you didn't take the bleeder screws out when you filled it you can get the air out by just running the engine at the RPM i said above untill no more air shoots out of the hole where the coolant is spraying out.
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