Originally Posted by z06bigbird
Likely charges are $135 per hour at many BMW, Mercedes dealers, etc. Dealers charge Corvette owners a special "Corvette tax" for parts and labor.
do it yourself without putting the jack thru the floor or the underbody panels. Rear end on newer models is alum. Floor jacks and alum rears do not mix well. But then another rear can be bought for just a few grand plus labor and incidentals.
Jiffy Lube type. Please ask mgr there if they will cover little mistakes like the tech failing the tighten the oil plug? Those plugs have been known to fall out if not properly tightened. If that shop agrees it was their fault, they will pay the first few thou out of their pocket. Then the ins kicks in--if they have not cancelled the ins. Also, they might claim that you should have noticed the RED oil light on the panel and immediately stopped driving. If you admit that you continued to drive with the RED light on, you just might be cooked. If they do replace the engine, they will try to locate the cheapest engine they can find. You don't mind them saving a few $$, do you?
Boy, I am in rare form today.
After your warning one would think that driving up onto ramps or jacking up a car and placing jack stands is rocket science. There is a good jack point on the front end frame cross member that makes it easy to raise the front end if you have a low-profile floor jack or use a plank or two to pick up a few inches of clearance.
Don't know why you mention raising the rear with the subject being changing engine oil and I don't understand your reference to "aluminum rear end". Are you referring to suspension parts? Using the differential to lift the rear is safe as long as the weight is spread evenly across the differential cover (2X4 works well) so there is no danger of breaking cooling fins off the cover. The differential is solidly connected to the frame through a several points cushioned by bushings. While lifting the rear using the differential does put pressure on these bushings, a short time on the jack while you position jack stands won't damage the bushings, and in no way stresses the rear suspension.
Yes, I too am afraid of turning my BMW engine over to some pimply-faced kid at a quick lube place which is why I do my own oil changes. I buy Mobil 1 0W-40 for $7 per quart and a Hengst (OE) filter for $10. I usually pull the front belly pan off (even though it is not necessary to get at the sump drain plug or filter housing) so I can go over the bottom of the engine looking for leaks or other problems and listen closely underneath the car when I restart it.
I make it a practice to check oil, water and power steering fluid levels once per week and then start the cold engine and listen in the engine bay for a few minutes for any changes in the sounds of the engine. Only by listening regularly can you tell when the sound of the engine changes.
I feel sorry for those who have zero mechanical aptitude and have to go to a shop for an oil change. For those who have the time and at least a little mechanical skill I advise changing your own oil to stay in touch with the mechanical condition of your car.