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#1 (permalink) Old 03-14-2007, 01:51 PM
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PLEASE Help!!! with bmw engine

I have a 2000 BMW 528i and recently started having issues with the car. I've taken it 2 times to an authorized BMW service shop (Herb chambers BMW Boston) and spent about $4500 fixing it as it is out of warranty. Almost all of the problems have been fixed except one! My engine keeps stalling out!!! This is during the wintertime in Boston so it's very cold. I thought perhaps the cold snapped the battery so I changed to a brand new battery. But the very next day, the car stalled out again! I leave the car running in the morning so the engine would warm up but after about 10 minutes of running, the rpm dips so low (about 400) that the car just shuts off. And sometimes I would sit in the car and just watch the rpm go up and down up and down. It would rev very low at like 400 and suddenly correct itself and jump up to about 1000 rpm and comes back down again. The car would do this about once every minute and finally stall out.
Mind you I've taken the car back to the dealership 2X and every time they diagnose it they said they couldn’t find anything pertaining to why the car would just shut off. Last time I replaced a coolant sensor and idle air control valve, which had nothing to do with the car stalling.
My car has low mileage, 2000 car and only 76000 miles. I don't drive that often and not rigorously. I'm just so worried about my car and not to mention all the money I spent fixing it within these two months. The BMW service people said there’s nothing wrong with the starter or alternator. They keep telling me the same things every time: check out your battery, change fuel grade, etc. But everything they told me, I did, and nothing helps. My car's sporadic revving and stalling just got me scratching my head. I even went to Auto Zone and had them check out the starter and alternator and the new battery I replaced. They said everything’s fine.
Nothing and no one can tell me what is going on with the stalling. If you are reading this and you have any idea about what's going on PLEASE HELP me understand. It’s not the starter, not the alternator, and not the battery. So what else can it be? What else should I look into to stop my car from stalling out in the wintertime or am I doomed every winter from now on? And are those BMW service technicians really just full of it???
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#2 (permalink) Old 03-14-2007, 03:39 PM
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I am surprised the dealership technicians have no clue what the problem is.
Were there any codes on the car? Was there a Check Engine Light?

Does this happen only at idle, or when you're moving also??
Does the car accelerate smoothly, or does it hesitates or is jerky or "bubbling"?

Did they check the MAF sensor, or the Idle Control Valve?
Do you have any signs or symptoms of a vaccum leak?
(Any air wooshing or whistling sound, any smoke out the exhaust?)

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#3 (permalink) Old 03-14-2007, 03:58 PM
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my car did the same thing, and it was caused by a vacuum leak
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#4 (permalink) Old 03-14-2007, 04:12 PM
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And did you fix it. My car is out of warranty. Do you have any idea how much a job like that costs?
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#5 (permalink) Old 03-14-2007, 05:50 PM
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Post on bimmerboard, ask for Jim Cash

Quote:
Originally Posted by chenxin1929
And did you fix it. My car is out of warranty. Do you have any idea how much a job like that costs?
Why don't you post your problem on:
The 5 Series E39 Forum

Ask for "Jim Cash", he should be able to help you.

cn
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#6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2007, 06:03 PM
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sounds like vacuum leak.

go under the hood, look at any rubber tubing running from one part of the engine to the other. check for cracks.

also look at Realoem.com for engine diagrams of the vacuum hoses.

if not this then, like cosmos said check the ICV and MAF.
To check the MAF sensor just unplug it. the car will adjust air flow toa default setting, this is only a temporary fix, but if it idles better then you know its the sensor.

Beaware though, MAF sensor is $500+

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#7 (permalink) Old 03-15-2007, 05:21 PM
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Could also be a Vanos issue, if not vacuum leak and or MAF
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#8 (permalink) Old 03-16-2007, 06:39 PM
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Idle troubles

Hello, I'm new to the board and have now had my '99 528i for about 6 months. I am having similar problems and it has been a long winter full of other car troubles.

My car has the same idle issue. I've been searching these boards for some answers. Many people suggest the ICV which I intend to clean this weekend. However, it sounds like it may be a VANOS issue. This post does a great job of explaining what could be happening.
6-cyl double vanos problem assessment - The BMW 5 Series (E39) Message Forum

On a side note, I had my oil seperator valve replaced, most of which was covered under a goodwill warranty. It froze and cracked my valve covers and ruined my exhaust system, along with my O2 sensors. What a headache and quite costly, even with BMW's contribution.

Unfortunately, I have yet to find a local BMW dealership that treats me like a potential repeat customer. I've been shocked at how little has been done to insure I continue to love my car. It seems to me that BMW should take more interest in addressing issues that have become widespread. The oil seperator valve is a good example of a component BMW redesigned due to minor oversights, but has not owned up to all the damage that has been done by one faulty part.

I love my car and I'm trying hard to remain optimistic about its future performance, but I keep reading about problems that seem every 5 series owner is having. Good luck!

Matt
'99 528i
104,000 milesused:
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#9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2007, 09:28 PM
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e39 bmw stalling out

Thanks to everyone for their replies.
Honestly I don't know anything about engines and don't dare to try to fix my bmw, especially now that it's out of warranty. I spent about 1000$ replacing the Idle air control valve, because that's what the bmw technician said is making my car stall out during the wintertime.
I brought to other garages and they said to bring to them when the car stalls so they can check out the check engine light. They don't understand that by the time I get the car there, the engine will have warmed up and I can't prove to them the car stalls. They can only plug in their computers when the check engine light turns on after stalling.
This whole ordeal has really ruined my love for this car. It seems like noone cares and noone can fully solve this problem, especially at the bmw service after having spent so much money there.
I'll keep trying, I will have someone look at
1) any cracks in the valves or any tubing
2) MAF sensor
3) Vanos intake or exhaust solenoid electrical connector.
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#10 (permalink) Old 07-01-2007, 10:25 AM
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My car did the same thing, (1985 635csi) it sounds like you have a vaccum leak. The car would stall out starting in summer. First we suspected a vapor lock, but eventually not even loosening the gas cap would solve the problem.

Then I took a look under the hood, cracked hoses were everywhere. I spent about $200 on replacing every single rubber hose I could under the hood, sure enough, the car fired right up and never stalled out again (until the transmission dumped)
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#11 (permalink) Old 07-15-2007, 10:08 PM
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i had the same problem with my 98 528i, i would start it in the cold mornings, and it would start but would idle very low. and if i tried to tap on the gas gently to rev it up, the engine would shut off, but everytime, after a few starts and good steps on the gas to get the motor warmed up. .it ran fine. but however i took it to BMW of San Diego to have them find out what was wrong and heres how it worked out.

1: they hooked the it up to the cpu and ran a computer dianostic to check if all my systems were running fine and see if the cpu could determine what was wrong with the car ( $120.00/Per hour) it was a 1 hour check and it found nothing wrong
2: they said they would have to manually take apart my engine to determine what was wrong and again the rate would be $120.00/hour and after an hour (them removing my intake) they said they found the problem which was a cracked "cyclone seperator" or something like that, price was 120.00 for the manual checking of the engine
3: they had to replace the *cyclone seperator" and a "leaking oil hose"
parts and labor ran me about $900.00 + 120.00 (cpu diagnostics) + 120.00 to manually find the problem. ran to a total off about $1200.00.

sorry guys, i searched my car and room for 1 1/2 hrs looking for my recipt from bmw so i could name the exact parts, costs, and labor costs for everything but for some reason its the only recipt i cant find lol. ne ways hope this helps. and hope you get your 5er running smoothly. If you are in the san diego area i know several shops that charge decent prices for great quaility work and arent trying to make the quick buck as compared to making loyal customers.
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#12 (permalink) Old 01-04-2010, 08:11 PM
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idle control valve

hi about your problems you say idle controle valve $1000?the price for your car in england isŁ81+17.5 tax! available from gsf e.mail sales@gsfcarpart.com there inothing scary to taking it off & cleaning itfor info and photos on how to do this see bimmerforums.com the only thing i disagee with on this blog is using wd40 to clean use wynns carb cleaner or a carbon tetraflouride contact cleaner then lube with small! amount of brake fluid best of luck & regards david in u.k
Quote:
Originally Posted by chenxin1929 View Post
Thanks to everyone for their replies.
Honestly I don't know anything about engines and don't dare to try to fix my bmw, especially now that it's out of warranty. I spent about 1000$ replacing the Idle air control valve, because that's what the bmw technician said is making my car stall out during the wintertime.
I brought to other garages and they said to bring to them when the car stalls so they can check out the check engine light. They don't understand that by the time I get the car there, the engine will have warmed up and I can't prove to them the car stalls. They can only plug in their computers when the check engine light turns on after stalling.
This whole ordeal has really ruined my love for this car. It seems like noone cares and noone can fully solve this problem, especially at the bmw service after having spent so much money there.
I'll keep trying, I will have someone look at
1) any cracks in the valves or any tubing
2) MAF sensor
3) Vanos intake or exhaust solenoid electrical connector.
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#13 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 09:42 PM
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Seems like the BMW shops would be hip to the problems that these cars have.Dont get
discouraged It really sounds to me like a vacuum leak. The M52 engine is a great motor but a vacuum leak will wreak havoc on idle and accl. I had a simlar problem and fixed it for 120.00 in parts. Get some carb. cleaner (spray) idle the engine ,take your time and spray all vacuum hose connections listening for a change in idle.Dont forget that under the Intake manifold is an air oil seperator,CCV use a flashlight to see this and hit these connections.The hose from your valve cover in front connects to CCV follow that.Try that and see if you find anything and post results. Disclaimer, I do not know what I am talking about. Remeber carb cleaner is combustable.

528imwayne
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#14 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 07:35 PM
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Hello all--I'm new over here but been around on the other Forums for quiet sometime.
I know that this is an old thread but, the problem here is quiet simple--it's happening to most all of the i6 double Vanos engines in our BMW--Vanos seals need to be replaced the following link can set you on the right path to make the fix and make your car run like new again.
Beisan Systems - Procedures - Double Vanos Procedure
This procedure enables the variable timing to work agin the way it was designed by BMW
The new seals will last the life of the car--I was one of the first to make the change over at Christmas 2007---car has performed flawlessly ever since--this will bring back the punch in your engine
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