Overheating Trouble... Please Help!!! - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60) Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-26-2004, 12:39 AM
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Recently I had my Coolant Reservoir replaced on my '89 535i... the gauge always pointed right in the middle (where it is suppose to be)... after the Reservoir change the gauge points to the 3rd line (middle is 2nd line) and sometime it goes a little over the 3rd line. I thought it had an air-bubble inside and did the proper adjustments to try take the cap off and let the engine run on idle with the heater on full blast... and it still does the same thing. I have a feeling that it might be the thermostat... but am unsure. Anyone that can help me with troubleshooting? I hate to blow a headgasket... 2 weeks ago I purchased a new cat. converter for $600.00... because it was stopped up... and thought that the problem was because of it... I guess that was a waste. Please help me with my overheating problem. You're suggestions and recommendations are appreciated.
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-26-2004, 09:49 AM
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M5fanatic

As you said when you changed the reservior a good possibility is the air trapped in the system hampering any circulation of coolant. You saying you did the proper adjustments by idling with the cap open.....I am not sure if this procedure would've helped. In fact that is not it. Let me walk you through it a step by step with different scenarios:

1. Prior to changing the resevior you had a normal range of temp. (half way) this means you cooling system was just working fine. The system includes: Thermostat, water pump; fan clutch (the belt driven one) plus the auxiliary (electrical) the latter usually doe not kick in until either you turn the AC on (you can test it that way) or if your temp. gauge goes over the half way you described in your post.

2. So before going crazy with all possibilities which means alot of $$$ why don't we do this: locate the plastic philips screw (a rather big one) with your engine running feel the upper hose (don't burn yourself) by pressing on it; if it is hard to press you know the system is building pressure and it has to be purged. Now loosen the plastic screw (be gentle or you will break it) if there is air trapped you will hear hissing noice while air is escaping out of the system...keep it loose till you see a solid flow of coolant then tighten. This means no more air. feel the upper hose again it should have gotten softer by now. Take a look at you gauges if it was climbing high it should drop to half. Again I am assuming a good working system. Add coolant as requered and enjoy.

Now working with this can be dangerous if you are not familiar with it have someone do it for you. That is someone who knows his BMWs.

P.s. Some cars have one screw some have 2 screws. Usually one right after the thermostat housing; the second always sits on top of reservior. As such if u have 2 start at the housing screw then do the same for the 2nd.
good luck
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-26-2004, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by billB@Sep 26 2004, 08:49 AM
M5fanatic

1. Prior to changing the resevior you had a normal range of temp. (half way) this means you cooling system was just working fine. The system includes: Thermostat, water pump; fan clutch (the belt driven one) plus the auxiliary (electrical) the latter usually doe not kick in until either you turn the AC on (you can test it that way) or if your temp. gauge goes over the half way you described in your post.

2. So before going crazy with all possibilities which means alot of $$$ why don't we do this: locate the plastic philips screw (a rather big one) with your engine running feel the upper hose (don't burn yourself) by pressing on it; if it is hard to press you know the system is building pressure and it has to be purged. Now loosen the plastic screw (be gentle or you will break it) if there is air trapped you will hear hissing noice while air is escaping out of the system...keep it loose till you see a solid flow of coolant then tighten. This means no more air. feel the upper hose again it should have gotten softer by now. Take a look at you gauges if it was climbing high it should drop to half. Again I am assuming a good working system. Add coolant as requered and enjoy.

P.s. Some cars have one screw some have 2 screws. Usually one right after the thermostat housing; the second always sits on top of reservior. As such if u have 2 start at the housing screw then do the same for the 2nd.
good luck
regards
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[snapback]199265[/snapback]
Hello Bill...

Thank you for the reply. As you mentioned in #1, my recent repairs were:
Water-Pump, Fan-Blade, Fan-Cluth & new Hoses. The thermostat has not
been replaced. Could that still be the problem???
Ok, I am halfway familair with these cars (not an expert), but the screw(s)
you are referring to... well, I don't seem to find anything with a "Philips-Screw".
The only thing I find on the Thermostat Housing is a little (size 5 or 6) screw on
top... but don't want to touch it, since I have no idea if that is the right one. I
left you an Email sometime this morning... I hate to be a bother, but I do not
want to blow a headgasket... Is it possible you can give me a ring? I will send
you a personal message with my # in a few. Thank you in advance.

-Jon-
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-26-2004, 07:04 PM
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Smile

Ok... this is what I did today. Found the Thermostat Housing... removed all 4 screws... took the housing aside and tried taking out the Thermostat... had to grab some pliers to take the unit out... when the unit popped out... I broke the bottom half of the Thermostat housing... I know what you're thinking, "what an idiot"... but there is a first time for eveything... learn from your mistakes, right? So, tomorrow I will take a trip to the dealer and hopefully they will have that housing, so I can finish what I started today. I guess that "bleeding screw" you were referring to... was the little scew on top of that housing. Any other suggestions before attempting to put it back together? That little rubber seal that goes around the Thermostat (when installed)... does it need be tight in there, or will it eventually be tight once the housing is back on it? I know... I know... many silly questions... but I want to do it right. Get back with me... anyone?

-Jon-
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-26-2004, 10:03 PM
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I disagree with you and not quite we all make mistakes!. Isn't that we call a learning process? If not then we all idiots.

A word of caution though you must be very/very carefull with this job if you've decided to do it youself; here is why:
1. The classic warning: the cooling system builds up so much pressure and hot coolant. You may hurt youself. Never open/loosen caps/screws when hot.

2. The housing is made of plastic; although you had a fair warning but I guess it is too late. It is already broken; but again may be just may be, it was cracked already and when you took it a part it simply split in half. So do you think you had a small leak already from a cracked housing and thus overheating?

3. Changing the thermostat is not a big deal $$ wise at worst you are eliminating the possibility of bad thermos.

As I said earlier some cars have 2 plastic screws/ some have only one. Those housings come in a variety. Some don't have it at all. Remember it is plastic philips screw not used to hold anything in place. It functions as a purging valve-- if you wish-- to get air bubbles out of the system. The second screw sits to the right/front of the cap of the resevior. I can send you some pics if a need arises.
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#6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2004, 09:42 AM
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Hi,

My car has been overheating a bunch of times too (E34 525)... i finally replaced the water pump which was crazy.. I do not want to do it again.. But only about 2 weeeks later it overheated again!! I was pretty upset.. I put the car in the garage and replaced the thermostat (cut my finger open while doing that too.. oops!) which was rather easy to do. BUt it turned out to be the thermostat. Runs pretty good now! Good luck with yours!!

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#7 (permalink) Old 09-27-2004, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by numberthree_@Sep 27 2004, 08:42 AM
Hi,

My car has been overheating a bunch of times too (E34 525)... i finally replaced the water pump which was crazy.. I do not want to do it again.. But only about 2 weeeks later it overheated again!! I was pretty upset.. I put the car in the garage and replaced the thermostat (cut my finger open while doing that too.. oops!) which was rather easy to do. BUt it turned out to be the thermostat. Runs pretty good now! Good luck with yours!!
[snapback]199881[/snapback]

Bill & NumberThree...

Well... looks like I solved the overheating problem. This morning I called BMW of Nashville and they didn't have the Thermostat Housing in stock... I was a little disappointed because I really don't want to miss 2 days of work. Called around and a Salvage Yard that said they didn't have it, did have it... I drove by and told them it interchanged with some of the 7-Series... and yes, they had it... the unit
looks brand new... and even had the thermostat in it. Installed the unit... put the coolant fluid in the reservoir... started the car, coolant drained out of the tank... then topped it off... started the car, with the heater on high... and cool air turned into hot air... and the gauge stays in the middle (little below the middle). Bill, I like to thank you especially for all advice and recommendations... and #3, thank you for replying... I am extremely happy now. Bill? please do call me today, like to thank you personally and ask you something else related to my BMW. ... this Forum is fantastic!!! ....off to work!!!

-Jon-
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-27-2004, 05:49 PM
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Glad to hear this
Best luck of all
regards
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#9 (permalink) Old 09-27-2004, 05:53 PM
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Glad to hear everything is ok too.. enjoy it!

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