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5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60) Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)

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Old 03-31-2011, 01:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Need rebuild, need advice please

I have a beautiful '98 528i with a M52B28 engine that needs to be rebuilt; rings seem to have gone. My question is... those of you who have done a complete rebuild (assuming no pistons or camshafts needed), how much are you spending? I see this question many times on this post but don't really see any answer. I can get a used engine for about $1,500. But if I am not going to spend more than about $2k to rebuild, I would rather do it myself and know what I have and get to have the fun. So...just interested what some of you have done and what it cost. Have not torn it down yet, but hear that these have iron sleeves on US product; true? Can they be re-sleeved?

Also, anyone know a good machine shop in Portland, OR that you would recommend?

Where have you gone for good component kits?

Thanks!

Last edited by uppiano002; 03-31-2011 at 01:27 AM. Reason: add to/update content
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't see your mileage listed but are you really sure your rings are gone? I did a head gasket on my 95 525i at about 100K miles - that was quite a bit of work and I never even removed the engine. There was virtually no cylinder ridge and compression was on the money. I should point out I have rebuilt several chevy engines in my day but they were nothing compared to this. If you can get a good used engine for $1500 that you can hear run and trust the seller and can see miles, etc. Do it - my opinion.

Scott
PS - owned my 95 525 and I maintained it for 10 years.

Last edited by ScottC525; 04-02-2011 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the feedback Scott. The vehicle has 187k and I thought I had a head gasket gone, but the compression test showed cyl 1 & 6 at 225 and 217 respectively with cyl 2-5 at 102-135psi. Wet test took them all to 220-227psi. My conclusion is the top end is fine and bottom gone. I pulled the engine out Saturday and am starting the teardown tonight. Right now my plan is to get inside and see what is going on and then evaluate rebuild vs. used. Thanks for your insights!
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Very cool! Let us know what you find. And yes you are correct. ALL US bound BMW's with M52's have always had iron sleeves. This was due to the higher sulfur content fuel used in Americas. This became a problem in the UK when the sulfur content of the fuel rose in the 1990's. Our i6 engines were problematic for quite some time in Europe because they had Nikasil lined aluminum cylinders. Good luck by the way, I hope the BMW Gods smile upon thee...
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the well wishes! All is going well so far. Engine is out and on the stand and I am tearing down the top end now. The instructions for dissassembly on the VANOS is a little vague in the Bently manual so I will be talking to my BMW master mechanic friend tomorrow to keep from putting any pretty bends in a valve!

Also, the Bently manual warns against using the progressive loosening of the camshaft bearing caps and goes as far as calling it an unacceptable method. They suggest using the BMW fixture. Baum tools no longer stocks it and says it isnt necessary. Anyone want to weigh in on this controversy?
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by uppiano002 View Post
Thanks for the well wishes! All is going well so far. Engine is out and on the stand and I am tearing down the top end now. The instructions for dissassembly on the VANOS is a little vague in the Bently manual so I will be talking to my BMW master mechanic friend tomorrow to keep from putting any pretty bends in a valve!

Also, the Bently manual warns against using the progressive loosening of the camshaft bearing caps and goes as far as calling it an unacceptable method. They suggest using the BMW fixture. Baum tools no longer stocks it and says it isnt necessary. Anyone want to weigh in on this controversy?
Strictly a guess - I have not done this... But I would suspect that by loosening the cam bearing caps, you may inadvertently allow enough stress that the cam takes too much of a load and cracks. If you could see what the tool looks like - it might help you decide.

How do the cylinders look?
Scott
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quick update: after my complete teardown, the engine is at the machinist now. Cylinders look perfect (amazing BMW performance, these have 187K on them) no ridge, no scoring; have not mic'd them. Everything looks pristine with the exception of the exhaust CS, slight scoring on a couple journals, engine shop says no problem. I could reuse the This is really a very simple engine to work on. A little dissapointed with the lack of any lower end engine info from the Bentley manuals, actually bought a Haynes and they have a very good lower end section. Question: looking to upgrade on the camshafts. any advice on how far you can go with lift and duration and still have a smooth idle without having to remap the air/fuel? anyone with experience with the Edelbrock cams? Can go Schrick but man they are expensive! I am going with custom forged pistons so clearance shouldn't be a problem. Any input would be very appreciated!!!
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh, dear ! I would've dropped some K-Seal in her 1st, LOL...
That way you would've known for sure if the motor was shot !!!???
I'm a bit late, eh?
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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LOL, ya, a bit late, but no worries I am having a great time. BTW, as for loosing the camshafts w/o the BMW tool, can be done (in fact according to my BMW master mechanic friend, done all the time). Start by loosening each cap working down the camshaft with 1/8 turns on the nuts first time down the camshaft and then 1/4 turn the rest of the way until they are off. My cams are perfectly straight. Be patient, it takes a little time but is way cheaper than the tool.
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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dude thats awesome i kinda want my car to crap some rings or a valve seat or something so i have a reason to tear it apart and do some tweaking but it just wont give up!!
204tousand miles currently
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