5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
This might be a lil lengthy bc Im thinking I have multiple issues but here it goes. Started my '02 530i 115k mi to warm up and when I went back out 5 min later the car was off and wouldn't start back up. Also got the trasmission failsafe message and key in ignition lock on the dash. Batter was old and had low voltage which I have read can cause the transmission message. Got a new battery that day installed it and still nothing other then multiple clicks from the starter. The next day the new battery was almost completly dead. Today I just replaced the starter thinking that was the problem but nope. Im geting 1 louder click but the engine just doesnt want to roll over. Tried to turn the flywheel from underneath the car but it seems to be locked up and doesnt want to turn at all. Any ideas out there??? Im completly lost on what it could be.
Side note of previous work/problems since ive had the car at 108k. Guy I bought it from had new alternator put in at 105k. Blower moter resistor went bad and heater wouldnt work after pressing defrost. New one I found online for $35 went bad after a month causing fan to stay on and drained the old battery (y I bought a new one after car wouldnt start). Latest resistor still working well but only had it in for 2weeks. New NGK laser platnum plugs at 110k. New battery and bosch starter 115k.
1) One problem seems to be the ignition switch- it appears to stay in AUX, even after you remove the key. The heater resister only adds load to the heater motor "when it's on", to change the speed. If the switch is off, the heater should be off. Unless someone rewired something, I'd guess the ignition switch isn't turning everything off.
2) How did oil get to the tops of the pistons? Did this ever happen before? Try turning the crankcase nut clockwise with a large wrench, and see if the engine moves. Pull the battery, charge it up, reinstall it and try to start it again right away.
If you live in a cold climate the delaership is probably right, what happens is that the crankcase vent valve freezes from excessive condesation in the crankcase, once this happens it starts to pull oil up from the crankcase in to the intake system then it hydrolocks the engine. The good new is that this is a common problem and more than likely no engine damage. You will have to get a crankcase vent valve "kit" which comes with new lines to the valve that are insullated and also the valve will be. Secondly you will have to get the oil out of the cylinders, this is done by pulling out the spark plugs and cover the valve cover with some towels that you don't care about and put something heavy on them because they will get blown off from the compression of the cylinders. Next pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the enigne over, this will push all the oil out of the cylinders, it will get messy bust this is the easiest ways. Once you clean up the mess replace the plugs and reassemble. When you start hte car for the first time make sure it is in a well ventilated area, it will smoke BAD for a good 10-20 minutes, because it has to burn off the oil leftover in the cylinders and the oil that got into the exhaust mainifold. Hope this helps
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