5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
well, i got the TPS fixed finally, thanks guys
Now, the idle is still causing problems, there are the 2 plugs that go into my idle control valve, one of the wires came off; i saudedered it back on there and there are still idle problems. any idea of where i can get these new wires at? i went to the junk yard but all the engines were missing
Now another question i have, is could my Idle Control Module be out? what it does is when it starts and is supposed to be idling it just dies. and keeps doing it. it'll buck when i first start to go and everything. but its horrible. i have to keep the gas down somewhat to keep the car on. Could this be the Idle Control Module? or is it those wires that i tried to reconnect?? any help is great, thanks!
it could be the idle control module or the idle control valve.
What you need to do first is to check the resistance of the pins on the idle control valve, and if those check out OK, then you need to next move on to the idle control module and see if enough current is coming through the wires (assuming you have an ammeter)
I'll have to get back to you in a bit on what the correct resistances are for the ICV and the correct current for the ICM.
Looks like you are having a lot of problems. I would check the idle valve also. I think only the cars up to 84 have the idle control module. Check for vaccum leaks and worn out vaccum lines. I will consult with my Bentley and see what I come up with and let you know.
I was wrong. Your car does have an idle control module. Only motronic 1.1 has the idle controlled by the ECU.
Haynes says that for engine starts but stops immediately check the ff:
1. electrical connectors at distributor, coil or altenator.
2. insufficient fuel reaching injectors.
3. injector speed sensors
4. injector relays.
Bentley says check idle switch before performing idle troubleshooting.
On your car the idle and full throttle switch are combined. This should be a 3 pin switch on the throttle body. With harness connector disconnected and ignition off test for continuity. The pin in the middle is 18 and 2(left) & 3(right).
Throttle closed 2&18 continuity
throttle partially open 2&18 AND 3&18 no continuity.
throttle fully open 3&18 continuity.
Now if this is not the case, with the throttle closed loosen the switch mounting screws and rotate the switch just until there is continuity. Tighten the screws.
Check all vaccum lines and fuel injector seals and hoses going to the idle valve and large intake duct and the thin hose between the intake manifold and the pressure regulator.
Now Bentley says the same.
1. check speed sensors
2. check fuel pump relay
3. vaccum leaks
4. clogged fuel injectors or operating at low pressure.
well, i think it could be the idle control valve. because when it was connected it wouldn't idle, and when it was disconnected it didn't change, im going to get new wires for it tomorrow. But, another thing thats been happening is when it reaches about 1k or below even when i hit the gas the car will still die, like the gas pedal isn't even in effect. and when i start driving it'll buck ALOT and then die, it took me about 5 tries to get out of the parking lot today, i felt like an ass. ghead
but yeah i think it could be something with the fuel injectors along with my idle control valve, could the IDV effect my accelleration and cause that bucking that keeps happening? its horrible it'll just stand there and die if it gets under 1k rpms. im thinking theres something with the gas in this too. When i drive, the car will start bucking a little and my exhaust is horrible because it'll sound like BRO_O_O_O_O_O_m (the _ are the spaces of no noise in the exhaust sound) it does it really fast though, mostly whenever it bucks or when i hit the gas..have any ideaS? i have new spark plugs, new wires, new distributor cap and rotor, new vaccum leaks and fuel lines. sorry that its kinda long but i really appreciate the help. saves me hundreds from having to take it to the shop
disconnecting the idle control valve and seeing if it still happens or not doesnt tell you that the idle control module is ok, since the ICM is what controls the ICV, just want to make sure you know that before you replace costly parts. I'd find a friend with a similar bmw and see ifyou can borrow his ICV.
as for your other questions , im not really sure what to say.
i was just saying the ICV wires that go up to it are a little messed up, one of them became disconnected and i tried to sauder it back but did a bad job, what i meant by testing it was that it ran the same when it was disconnected and connected, tehre was no difference. so im thinking theres a problem with the connection. so im going to try to find a place to get some new wires, which is not gonna be easy to find
anything to say about the bucking that is happening to the car??
What iw as trying to say is that it WOULD run the same if it were disconnected or connected if the ICV was bad, regardless of the connection that you soldered. The two components go hand in hand together, without one, the other doesnt function. (if that makes any sense) but... i would also look into other things, because once you give it gas it should go above idle just fine and stay smooth.
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