How to initiate my 525i after the battery is disconnected? - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 11:54 AM
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How to initiate my 525i after the battery is disconnected?

The battery on my 2005 525i needs to be replaced. However, I saw some words printed on the panel next to the battery apartment "initiate the car after the battery is disconnected...". What does this mean? I thought changing battery is just simple as removing the old one and put the new one. Why should I initiate the car in between? Can any one advice me how to do this step?

Thanks!
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 04:33 PM
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With the E60, theirs a computer module that adjusts the alternator current to the battery type. Give this a read as this will help you:

Battery Replacement in BMW E60 5 series DIY - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums


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#3 (permalink) Old 06-02-2013, 01:40 AM
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Battery change

Thanks for that link, which is very helpful. By the way, the writer mentioned he used "jumping" method to keep those current settings during the replacement process, does it mean you need to use a jump cable, connect it with your BMW from another car's battery terminals and keep the engine of another car running? Or just connect the terminal without starting the other car? Any ideas?

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With the E60, theirs a computer module that adjusts the alternator current to the battery type. Give this a read as this will help you:

Battery Replacement in BMW E60 5 series DIY - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-02-2013, 04:41 AM
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My understanding of the "jumping" process is to keep 12 volts on the cars system whilst you remove the battery. This can usually be done with another battery and a set of jumper leads. It doesn't even need to be a car battery because you aren't trying to run the car from it, its purely to keep the electrical system alive during the change over process.


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#5 (permalink) Old 06-02-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brettski View Post
My understanding of the "jumping" process is to keep 12 volts on the cars system whilst you remove the battery. This can usually be done with another battery and a set of jumper leads. It doesn't even need to be a car battery because you aren't trying to run the car from it, its purely to keep the electrical system alive during the change over process.
I think I got that idea, so, if I use a jumper and connect the leads on my BMW, I need to power on the jumper, right?

Also, any ideas how to identify the type of the battery, AGM or FLA? I can only see the followings on my exisiting one:

850CCA, 205RC, 850A, 110AH, 12V, etc.

The Autozone store closed to my area has H8-AGM and H8-DLG ($25 cheaper), which one I should go with in order to avoid reprogramming the new battery after the change?

Any ideas?

Many thanks!
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#6 (permalink) Old 06-02-2013, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovecd View Post
The Autozone store closed to my area has H8-AGM and H8-DLG ($25 cheaper), which one I should go with in order to avoid reprogramming the new battery after the change?

Any ideas?

Many thanks!
Its not about programming the battery. Its about resetting the computer module for the voltage of the new battery. I would stick with the AGM battery.


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#7 (permalink) Old 06-02-2013, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Vader View Post
Its not about programming the battery. Its about resetting the computer module for the voltage of the new battery. I would stick with the AGM battery.
Thanks!
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#8 (permalink) Old 06-03-2013, 12:57 AM
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After doing further research on this, I noticed that most AGM batteries are in black color and FLA is in white. My exisiting one is in white color, so, should I choose the H8-DLG this time?

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Its not about programming the battery. Its about resetting the computer module for the voltage of the new battery. I would stick with the AGM battery.
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#9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 01:19 AM
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the white 110AH battery is a lead acid battery. The AGM battery is a better battery however it requires "retrofit programming" in order to adapt the vehicles electronics to the AGM style battery. If you were to stick with a 110AH battery then the battery just needs to be "registered" to the vehicle using a diagnostic tool vs being "retrofit programmed" to the vehicle using a programming tool. The programming takes longer, is more expensive and is more invasive. For a professional coder/programmer it is no big deal but if you are taking the car to dealership or independent shop the programming will cost more than just the registration.

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