5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
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every morning i wake up and start the car dashboard lights up like a christmas tree!!
Warning lights for dynamic stability control failure (dsc) active steerting control failure (asc) tire pressure monitoring failure , spedometer goes to zero, and maybe one other.
Dealer had car for a week and a half- said a battery i put in was not initialized to car, therefore being over charged and a cell bad,
they replaced battery and gave car back ($550)
next morning the problem happened again
brought the car back a few days later
the dealer had the car for another week and half & they replaced negative battery cable and some sort of relay from the charging system ($285)
very next day i go car back same issues--
i am at wits end here-- really troubled dealer cant figure this out as they are supposed to be the experts
seems when car is warmed after a few miles, i can shut off and then restart, computer shows ok--
Similar problem with my '05 525: gradual onset of various system failures (restraint system, drive control system, electric water pump, lights). Fault codes point to a low voltage problem, replaced battery, no change, replaced battery negative, no change, disconnected, cleaned and reconnected all high current positive and negative connections, "Check Engine" light then illuminated, cooling fan ran at full speed and car in limp mode, now car won't start at all (cranks but doesn't fire).
I have now suffered a catastrophic sense of humour failure
It sounds like some sort of grounding issue which could be causing a potential difference between some of the control modules. That's only a guess though.
1) Write the factory complaining about the ineffective inadequate dealership, with a copy of the receipts, and request a refund 'cause the guy is not a mechanic, just a parts changer. BTW, the f'n battery doesn't need to "initialize" to the car: that's called second hand hay.
2) The odds are it's the (ECU) computer. Get thee to a junkyard.
C) Try turning the key on, and then wait a few seconds before starting the car. I had a Ford Taurus POS that if you started "too fast" it wouldn't always recognize the radio- I'd have to "reboot" (pull over, turn off, restart) the car to get the radio to work. It also took a few seconds for the fuel pump to repressure the lines, so that also helped it start easier.
4) AND ... sometimes it's more than one thing. Trust no one. Check everything.
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