A few E39 problems,cannot solved yet. - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-08-2011, 07:43 PM
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Exclamation A few E39 problems,cannot solved yet.

I own a 97 528i,although i like the car,i feel a little bit tired because of the strange problems.

Although I searched the forum I could not find some exact solutions for the problems I will list below.If you know the solution any help will be very beneficial for me.

1.My remote locking is not working and although central locking works from trunk cylinder and the button inside,sometimes my drivers door does not open the other doors.I checked the fuses,disconnected the fuel door actuator,reinitialize the remote key.(I have only one remote key)but the result is same.I m never able to use remote locking and usually my drivers door does not unlock the others.I scanned with bmw scanner and got errors 87/02 - DWA-Alarm: tailgate contact, 89/02 - DWA-Alarm: hood/bonnet contact, 83/24 - DWA-Alarm: door contact, driver's door.I dont know what to do?Can it be the relays on GM module?

2.My CEL is on,and the cause is the one of these 2 errors

3E/71 - Secondary air injection control valve

32/14 - (3/2 path) Solenoid Valve running losses ,

I want to be sure which valve should I change to avoid secondary air injection control valve error,the electrical one or the other?And what should I do to get rid of solenoid valve running losses error code?

3.Do the Thermal oil-level sensor defect causes my Vanos to jammed?OR the cause of jamming can be the fault gasket/o-rings?

Thanks for everyones interest and replies.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugra View Post
I own a 97 528i,although i like the car,i feel a little bit tired because of the strange problems.

Although I searched the forum I could not find some exact solutions for the problems I will list below.If you know the solution any help will be very beneficial for me.

1.My remote locking is not working and although central locking works from trunk cylinder and the button inside,sometimes my drivers door does not open the other doors.I checked the fuses,disconnected the fuel door actuator,reinitialize the remote key.(I have only one remote key)but the result is same.I m never able to use remote locking and usually my drivers door does not unlock the others.I scanned with bmw scanner and got errors 87/02 - DWA-Alarm: tailgate contact, 89/02 - DWA-Alarm: hood/bonnet contact, 83/24 - DWA-Alarm: door contact, driver's door.I dont know what to do?Can it be the relays on GM module?

2.My CEL is on,and the cause is the one of these 2 errors

3E/71 - Secondary air injection control valve

32/14 - (3/2 path) Solenoid Valve running losses ,

I want to be sure which valve should I change to avoid secondary air injection control valve error,the electrical one or the other?And what should I do to get rid of solenoid valve running losses error code?

3.Do the Thermal oil-level sensor defect causes my Vanos to jammed?OR the cause of jamming can be the fault gasket/o-rings?

Thanks for everyones interest and replies.
1. Could be your remote key fob battery.

2. Can you hear the SAP turn on? Do you have any kind of vacuum at the air valve when first cold start in the morning?

3. Maybe your vanos seals are no good any more. Replace your vanos seals.
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#3 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 02:52 AM
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thanks for the reply.

I have recently changed the battery but the result is same for remote key.

Actually I'm not sure about the noise of SAP,but I guess I hear a short noise at first start-up,do you think is it air pump or only changing the valve is enough?

I will change vanos seals ASAP.
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 05:48 PM
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Thermal oil level sensor faults are just for the oil level sensor. If you can hear the pump activating (its down on the passenger side of the engine bay), then replace just the valve.



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#5 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 02:39 AM
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SAP is secondary air pump, this pump will turn on for a minute or two when it's cold outside.

Sound like your SAP is working that leaves with either the eletric solenoid or the air valve. You can check this by start the car in the morning run to the exhaust manifold where your air valve is, remove the smaller hose and feel for vacuum.

If there vacuum then your air valve is bad.
If there's no vacuum then your electric valve is bad.

BTW, about your vanos. Did you get a code that said your vanos is jammed? where did you get the idea?
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#6 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 03:04 PM
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Also take a look at your vacuum hoses that run to the secondary air valve. There is a small one that runs around the back of the valve cover. Mine had deteriorated to the point that gave me CEL for secondary air system.
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 06:27 PM
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I am located in Venezuela and own a 1998 528 auto wjth just 66K miles.
The last year has been pure grief.

The air pump is located behind the front bumper passenger side. Its function is to pump fresh air to the exhaust manifold, near the exhaust valves, when the engine is first started when cold. This action continues the combuation of the overly rich exhaust gases to reduce contaminants.
This pumping goes on for a minute or so until the fuel enrichment ceases. It produces a diesel like type of sound, so if you open the hood and have someone start your engine(it must be cold!) you should hear it if you crouch by the bumper/fender.
There is a thick hose coming from the pump to a valve attached to the exhaust manifold by a pipe. This valve is operated by vacum. The vacum hose connects to the valve and to a silvery pipe that is routed by the front of the cylinder head to the other side of the engine to connect to another little hose that connects to an actuator just under the intake manifold by fuel injector no. 1

Do replace these vacum hoses, mine crumbled just yesterday. Age and heat destroys them. Recently, I unmounted the intake manifold and replaced every vacum hose, the oil hose that goes from the CCV <(oil separation valve) to the base of the oil dipstick.
While in there, it would be a good idea to replace ALL of the water hoses in sight. It would be a worthwhile preventive investment. Also, unmount the iddle control valve and clean it thith carb cleaner. Also, replace the intake manifold seals, two of them for 3 cylinders each.
Good luck

Last edited by hecgar@gmail.com; 01-13-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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