e39 vibration and noise at 65mph (help) - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-10-2007, 11:26 AM
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Question e39 vibration and noise at 65mph (help)

hello everyone.

ok. this just happened yesterday, while driving to work at 65mph (its the law), the car began vibrating. this is not a steering or wheel vibration. its more like
exhust, it kinda reminds me of retard brake on a truck, but much quiter. it only does it at very light excelaration. when the gas is released then the vibration is fallowed by a clunking sound,, more like two beer cans hitting eachother.
i checked the exhust and its not loose what so ever. the car doesnt seem to loose power, but today the vibration and clunking is more noticable.. what ever
it is, its getting worse.
i need to figure out the problem before it becomes something major.
im throwing guesses here: cats, timing.
also ive heard synthetic oil will change timing? is this true, and could it be related.???
thank you

((erjan))
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-10-2007, 12:55 PM
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Could be the drive shaft...?
Inspect the drive shaft and joints to look for any clues.

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#3 (permalink) Old 02-10-2007, 07:36 PM
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Yeah Cosmos is right..it could be a CV joint in one of the rear drive shafts, although they usually just click. Check the joints in the main driveshaft as well. Get it up in the air and have someone rock the wheels back and forth to see if you can reproduce any clunking or clicking.

I would make sure the exhaust system is totally mounted in rubber and there is no metal to metal contact anywhere.....like a broken hanger or mount, it can appear tight, but if there is metal to metal contact you can get a vibration or resonance.

The cats can also rattle internally, but I think you would get an engine code if they are failing. Loose heat shields would be another spot to check.

Just some ideas...

Happy hunting
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#4 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 10:00 AM
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Balkan, I agree with Cosmos. Have the driveshaft visually inspected. It could be the flex disc, center bearing or CV joins. In either case, you're better off off replacing the whole unit. Also while at it, replace the transmission mounts if you can.
I'm doing some research on driveshafts. I may have to do the same thing on my 840.

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#5 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 04:19 PM
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wow. you guys are awsome. I just had a good friend of mine, that works at a import car shop test drive the car. Right-a-way he suggested the driveshaft u-joints. The clicking noise is what gives it away, vibration usaully begins after reaching 65mph, Im guessing its because of flexing. Anyways the car is going in shop wednsday for a complete diagnosis.
Now the burning question is The Cost? He mentioned the amount of labor it takes only to remove the driveshaft, exhaust and shields must all be removed from car.
Ill keep this thread going, reporting the findings and cost of everything.

till next time...
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#6 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 05:11 PM
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Two possibilities

Quote:
Originally Posted by BALKAN
wow. you guys are awsome. I just had a good friend of mine, that works at a import car shop test drive the car. Right-a-way he suggested the driveshaft u-joints. The clicking noise is what gives it away, vibration usaully begins after reaching 65mph, Im guessing its because of flexing. Anyways the car is going in shop wednsday for a complete diagnosis.
Now the burning question is The Cost? He mentioned the amount of labor it takes only to remove the driveshaft, exhaust and shields must all be removed from car.
Ill keep this thread going, reporting the findings and cost of everything.

till next time...
1. Check cat shield, sometimes loose can cause rattling.
I posted this "coat-hanger" tip recently:
Free Fix for Loose Heat Shields (cats)


2. If driveshaft, then the Whole driveshaft needs to be replaced, something like $350-600 etc. + labor.
Do not forget to replace aslo the center bearing and the guibo while you are there replacing the driveshaft:

Replacement Driveshaft for Cars Such as BMW, Nissan, Mazda, Toyota, Audi, Mercedes and Many More.
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 08:57 AM
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Balkan, I have decided to replace mine as well on my 840... I just ordered it from the dealer ($815) but I'll get a discount since I know someone who works there. I'll take the car to the shop on Monday (19th) and have it installed.
You may want to consider replacing the transmission mounts while at it. Also, if you do get the whole driveshaft, it comes with the center bearing and flex disc already, no need to purchase separately. I'll find out the labor cost later next week!
Check out this site. You can also purchase a rebuilt unit...

Driveline Service - BMW Driveshafts

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#8 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 10:19 PM
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Thanks CNN and LOS.
CNN thats a neat fix for cat shields, but unfortunately its not the case (i wish).
Infact the car is going in the shop on thursday. The mechanic is 90% sure that its only the driveshaft cv/u-joint and posibly/including flex disk. But to replace these items requires lots of labor and removal of other parts. It will also require new diff. seal and trans. seal, new mounts, diff. fluid and he also suggests exaust mount bushings depending on condition. At this moment he doesnt think that ill need a new driveshaft (hope not). The vibration is very minimal and clicking is only noticable when slowing down of while in reverse. Also clicking is consistent with the speed, meaning while slowing down clicking the clicking whines down. Definately driveline related.

I found a place on the internet where i can purchase a used (from a wreck) driveshaft and all needed parts at a fraction of the cost $120 - $200. They have a lifetime warranty (item replacement) with return at buyers expense. Im not buying it. lol
Im not about the free replacement, its the labor cost im conserned about.
Like i said ill keep this going, reporting everthing. Maybe it'll help someone else down the road. I may even copy the repair invoice.

take care everyone, im going to bed.. Its snowing/sleet outside and i gots to get up early in the morning, fire up the snowblower and have me some fun...
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 08:05 PM
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UPDATE:
Ok, the car is in the shop. They will be installing a used driveshaft from wrecked 528i with 80k miles. The price on the driveshaft is $215 (not bad) and labor is $130. I also told the mech. to service the trans. while in the shop. New trans oil and filter plus labor is $215. After the all this Im having the radiator flushed, thats another $60. Overall, the repairs are quite inexpensive, in my opinion. The used driveshaft comes with 30day garantee, and the shop promised to test it before installing. The problem was wornout rear u-joints and a bad bearing.
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#10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2007, 09:49 AM
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Damn! You're getting a good deal on labor to replace the driveshaft. I hope they're putting the reight fluid in the tranny. I spent $180 for the fluid alone.
I still have not replaced the driveshaft on mine yet but maybe this week or next. Let us the know the final results... Good luck

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#11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2007, 07:04 PM
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alright, the car is back. The entire bill was $657 and some change.
The car recieved a used (80k mile) driveshaft, and it was a simple unbolt and bolt procedure. The repair was $370 including unit.
Since the repair was inexpensive i told the mechanic to service the trans, replace fluid and filter, which was another $220. Total of $657. after tax...
Now the results. Ive had the car since tuesday and it runs like the day i purchased it. Very happy with the repairs and i piece of mind with the trans. being serviced. The mechanic said the u-joints were severly worn, bearings were shot and the flex disk coming apart like hair.
Next on the schedule is rad. flush. Same mechanic (good friend now is only charging $60. The trans. fluid is the bmw recommended.
Noticed some deference in trans. shifting, low gears dont take as long to shift, and shifts are more firm.
I think i got lucky with the cheap repair only because of the used piece, and only hope IT holds up longer.
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#12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2007, 12:23 PM
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Good to hear that. Get the flushing done before summer. What year is your car? miles?
I just came from the shop and had mine replaced as well.
I actually bought the whole entired unit from the dealer, $640 including tax.
It took an hour to replace. I was only charged $50 for labor (I know the owner).
Anyway, my car used to vibrate around around 25-30 miles an hour all the time. I was told the center bearing was beginning to fail along with the flex disk. The 840 feels like a rocket!
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#13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2007, 07:23 PM
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I've been checking in on BALKAN's problem from time to time because I noticed a vibration at around 40 mph myself a while ago. Brought it up to my mechanic ( a BMW specialist ) when I replaced my struts. He said he could find nothing and the size of my wheels were to blame. I still had the problem running stock wheels for the winter.The sound is like a grumble, alot of people say they can't hear it, but it's louder than my stereo to me. I now think I have the same problem, but how could this guy not have found it. I had the problem before replacing the struts, and thought that was a contributing factor.
I also feel a lack of power kind of. Another problem is my mpg gauge seems to be on some weird delay or something. I press the gas and the needle reacts on a delay, and then gets pinned like I gunned it ( 8mpg).
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#14 (permalink) Old 03-06-2007, 09:09 AM
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I had a couple of issues with vibrations on my car. The first thing I did was to replace the control arm bushings. I could no longer feel the vibration on the steering wheel but I could steel feel the vibration on the whole car. There is a difference here. If it is the steering, it's has to do with the suspension. If the whole car vibrates, it's related to the powertrain. I hope this gives you an idea.
Post a new thread and list the symtoms, year of the car, mileage, and we'll try it figure it out.

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#15 (permalink) Old 03-06-2007, 11:43 AM
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E39, read this post as well. Maybe this is your problem!
http://www.bimmerwerkz.com/forum/5-s...bad-51080.html
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