5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
My '97 525tds with over 300th km's has a rough and shaky idle on some occasions. When the engine is hot, it often starts to shake when I put it in neutral or use the clutch when heading to a stop. When I come to a stop, it disappears, or by adding a little gas. There is no lack in power and it's never with a cold engine.
The car has a full inspection history from 0 untill now, last two inspections (I and II) I have done myself using the TIS inspection manual.
I have looked for vacuum leaks, changed the dieselfilter once more, cleaned the AGR valve and read out the computer with my carsoft interface, no faults detected.
I am planning on checking the injectors and timing, but can't do it myself. So to save costs, does anybody have an idea what this could be?
I would say possibly the camshaft sensor, even though carsoft didnt pick this up...it wouldnt as its not totally gone, ive heard of this before and it was the camshaft sensor failing at certain times/points especially when the engine is warm/hot....
__________________ VELVET BLUE UK INDIVIDUAL , IM THE LAST UNITED WE STAND DIVIDED WE FALL
I stepped in a plate of Pasta the other day - now I have to worry about my Carbonara footprint!
Change of plan the TDS doesnt seem to have a camshaft sensor, I worked on a 530d which did although you have two temp sensors in the side of the head, Iknow one of these communicates with the ECU, so it maybe one of these thats playing up,but which one I dont know:
TDS RealOEM.com BMW E39 525tds Cylinder Head Attached Parts
The AIR temperature sensor or IAT (in my case on my e34 caused misfire across the rev range,sensor was £7 new and fits in my inlet manifold).
Your e39 has a maf sensor which is a lot more expensive but dodgy maf will give more than a bad tick over and you can unplug it and the car will run default and run smoother albeit at reduced power if it is bad.
Two temps sensors in the cylinder head,one for the ecu and one for the temp gauge and I think the one nearest the front is for the ecu.
If it is the pot then the problem will occur when the tick over reaches a certain spot.
Lets say it is shaking about at tick over and then you put main beam on and the rear window demister and the fan on full,well this may be enough load on the engine for the ecu to raise the revs and then the pot has to move off the bad spot or it may induce worse tick over.
But when mine went at first there was a window of 100rpm that it would do it in.
Some days it would not do it and others it was constant,but raising revs would see it go away,the pot is like a needle on a record player.When it is worn it finds and then loses the signal hence the ecu gets conflicting data as to what revs to tick over at.
If you find the lights and fan etc make a difference to it then to pin point it to the pot you can try different grades of diesel.
Tesco diesel is rough so if you are using it then switch to say Bp and note the difference,the Bp gives more power for less pedal and this because of the 'more energy' in the fuel needs less throttle and hence pot position for given tick over.
I noticed this in mine when it went bad as I used veg oil and often biodiesel so my symptoms would come and go.
i'll begin with changing the tempsensor, then see what's the result. Then the next step I think would be to let the injectors and pumptiming be checked. They tell me it is a very common cause for these kinds of complaints.
Well, this morning a Bosch diesel service has read out the computer and checked the timing of the pump. Injectors were no possibility according to him.
Conclusion, worn fuelpump, replacing with a new bosch pump incl labour € 1850 (1650 BP or 2750$).
First thing to do right now is check if this conclusion is the right one. Second, decide whether or not to change it and when. Third, find out if I really want a brand new pump instead of a revised or used one and see if I can do it myself.
I checked the TIS for doing it myself, and conclude that it's not for me. To much special tools and to complicated. I called a company specialised in diesel engines, they told me it probably is indeed the pump, or maybe worn injectors. They could check it, but with replacing injectors, it would cost € 500.- Then, I still would need to check the pump. And checking is about 150euro's. If that's the problem, they could replace it with a revised one, for a total of € 1700,-.
I found some used ones on the internet, around € 350, but that's just delaying the problem.
Also, I've discussed with both people possible other solutions, but they however simply stated that all possible solutions had to be seeked around injetors and pump...
I had my pump reconditioned by P.B.ASHER who are in Southampton.
I paid £500 and had a complete rebuild electrical and mechanical although you can have either and then it will cost only half that,or specific parts changed.
Don't waste money changing the injectors unless it is for a used set that are cheap enough to warrant a try,I did injectors on mine and they made no difference.
Now the pumps are coded to the ecu with 3 different numbers so you need the same number pump if buying used otherwise it will not work.
993 or 994 or 995 are the numbers and these are on the side of injector pump.
Second or third line down is a line of numbers that starts with '0406 and then another 8 numbers after that,you need the last 3 numbers on that line and they will be one of those mentioned above.
Make a new throttle stop at the foot pedal and bolt it to the floor and then fix it so you can raise the idle to avoid the rough running is one way around the problem.
Have a look at how the pedal connects to the throttle potentiometer and work something out,the throttle pot has a very strong return spring so it will need some work to make something strong enough but it will sort it out cheaply .
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.