From another forum I have found the info below. Seems to match?
The DME Relay is the blue one in the ECU compartment (passenger side, behind the strut). This relay is turned on by the main DME ECU. The ECU has several power suplies to make sure it's always watching but the DME relay is the power switch for all the sensors in/on the engine (well most anyway), on failure it will stop your engine.
The DME relay is turned on by the ECU by internally switching it to ground, it has a constant live feed from the junction box. The junction is about the size of a pound coin and has red cables going to it. Both cables are quite large. The junction box has normally two to three pins on it and is located in the same ecu compartment near the relays.
Also inside the ecu box you'll see a small collection of fuses, the fuse we are interested in is fuse 3. Find a good place to test with your multimetre. Next turn on the ignition and test both sides of the fuse (to ground) while everything is fitted. You should get 12v on both occasions, if you dont and get it only one side - change the 20A fuse. If you get nothing close to 12v then change the relay, but let me know first and i'll show you where to test for wiring faults.
Using scan gear:
These faults will indicate a failing DME Relay:
(019) 13 - Activation, VANOS solenoid valve, outlet
(021) 15 - Activation, VANOS solenoid valve, inlet
(027) 1B - Activation, idle actuator/closing coil
(053) 35 - Activation, idle actuator/opening coil
(068) 44 - Activation, solenoid valve, fuel tank ventilation
(110) 6E - Signal, driver's request sensor, potentiometer1
(112) 70 - Signal, throttle position sensor, potentiometer1
115) 73 - Reference voltage, voltage regulator 1
(170) AA - Control unit self-test, motor-driven throttle valve or internal fault
(171) AB - System plausibility, motor-driven throttle valve
These fault codes are entered in the above list if the system voltage was too low due to battery discharge or due to failure or contact fault of the DME main relay.