5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
What year and model car is this? Is this the same car the moonlight mechanic helped you with? Lamda sensors and O2 sensors are the same thing. Lambda was a term used early on by Volvo and others.
When you drive the car the cel comes on and sets a fault code, after the fault (intermittent problem) clears the cel will turn off after about 25miles.....so you are setting a fault then it ..the computer is clearing the code etc. Not likely that both O2 sensors are bad at once. Something is fouling them out. Oil, stuck injector, a bad MAF and other possibilities seen on the above chart.. My bet is still on the MAF, unfortunately it is an expensive part and without plugging a new one in can be very difficult to diagnose.Hope some of these ideas help.
Different car! 1994 530i. Just bought it cheap (I wonder why!). I am going to do what i can to clean up the little problems it has. The guy I bought it from didn't know squat about cars and was scared by all the lights on the console...So I decided to be daring.
Trans Program (trans shifts fine, I am going to get out there and clean the switch on the shifter)
Check Engine Light on at all times (car runs fine, a reset of the computer system extinguished code 1212, now these come up intermittently.)
Wipers didn't run (now they do, search feature is great!)
Upper rear stoplight inop (now it works, just a loose wire)
Check Engine light now comes and goes, showing codes 1213 and 1222, Lambda sensors. It has now been extinguished for about three days.
How about low voltage? I'm on my way to buy a new battery, the one that's in there is weak and will not hold a charge enough to get a green eye...
Thanks for all your thoughts...
Monday I will be calling the gents in at Moonlight mechanic in NC if it comes on again.
The best test for your MAF is to unplug it and run for a week. If the car runs the same your MAF is likely dead. You will know the difference when you plug it back in or get a new one. Big difference. Second thing is a connection to dead MAF and transmission issues. When the MAF is not working the tranny gets changed as do other things. Very soft limp mode. I think of it as the sport switch is turned off. Oil Pressures come down things are softened to allow for a slightly rich engine config.
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