CABIN MICROFILTERS - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60) Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)

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#1 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 07:41 AM
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HERE ARE PHOTOS OF THE DYI CABIN FILTERS
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#2 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 07:43 AM
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MORE PHOTOS - HOW DO YOU ATTACH MORE THAN ONE SHOT AT A TIME ON THIS SITE
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#3 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 07:44 AM
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STILL ANOTHER SHOT
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#4 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 07:53 AM
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AND ANOTHER VIEW
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#5 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 03:48 PM
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Cheers!! so how is car performance?
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#6 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 06:34 PM
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That's not for your car's performance, Wiseman!!!
It's more for your breathing instead!

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#7 (permalink) Old 12-07-2003, 11:51 PM
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excellent work

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#8 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CosmosBlack@Dec 7 2003, 07:14 PM
That's not for your car's performance, Wiseman!!!
It's more for your breathing instead!

It improves the quality of airflow to your nose, not your car.

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#9 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 02:53 AM
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see post from DEC 6th re:Cabin Microfilters (brokenbat) I go through the procedure about removing the old filter material from the frames.

there was an arrow on the furnace filter to show the airflow direction but by the time I disected it I forgot what layer of the plastic gauze was on what side of the foam. Since they said on the package that it was electrostacticly charged I'm wondering if the plastic layers have to be facing any particular direction. The plastic gauze material seems to be the same on both sides and foam is foam so I don't know what sets up the electrostatic charge (I missed science class that day) or whether this is a BS selling point to make it sound more HiTech than it really is.

Performance? The blower is quieter and the temps seem to change faster when going from one extreme to another. My old filters had 56,000 on them so they were probably plugged a bit. My 0-60 times have dropped by 2.5 seconds and the wheel wobble at 100-110MPH has gone away. The only downside is the brakes which will be helped by the 'chute I'm installing


I think the real test is going to see if there is any dust that develops on the vents in the dash. On my old car with no cabin filters a thin layer of dust would develop after about a week on the adjustable vent blades and then out came the q tips if I had nothing better to do. I'm sure the passageways to these were clogged pretty good (after 256,000) and the blower motor was probably groaning with all the crud on it too. If I start to see dust develop, I'll slap another layer of foam in there.

Happy motoring- Remember that the frequency of pit stops is determined by the person with the strongest bladder, not the weakest.
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#10 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 04:18 AM
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ghead :nana

LOL!! I feel duh!!!

This info really help.. if you need to get a replacement from the dealer it cost you around $150.00 - $200.00
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#11 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 05:13 AM
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That's right Wiseman! I think the filters cost like over $30 plus a piece, that's 2 pieces...and labor at the dealer would be around $78. Damn slit-throats! Same thing with the batteries, if you get it from Douglas, it's like $80-$90. If you go to the dealer to replace your battery, it's over $200!!! I would like to see how they explain that! They'll probably tell you they have to run a full test and check the whole car's electrical system!

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#12 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 03:09 PM
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Can I pick those up from Home Depo? or somewhere online?
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#13 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 04:03 PM
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brokenbat,
Where did you get that plastic mesh/frame that hold the filter material in between?

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#14 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 04:18 PM
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I got this one at OSH--- Home Depot should have something as well.

there were about 4 different kinds that were in the 12-15 dollar range. The rest are the spun fiberglass kind like I have here in the house furnace for a couple of bucks. Some had allergy
protection etc.

The thing about these is that they have the plastic grid which can be cut to
fit snug in the old frames and hold the filter material. Most of the other filters are made of a pleated
material like the orginal cabin filters but not as many pleats and were surrounded by cardboard
and had a thin wire grid on both sides just to keep the thing from flapping. I'm sure these could be cut up as well but with the foam/plastic gauze and plastic grid it makes a really neat looking intallation. It seems to be a much more free flowing setup as well which may or may not be a concern. I don't know what the micron/particle size the original filters go down to. I'm relying on the "electrostatic" part of this experiment to do it's thing. I'll swab out the dash vents real good with a Qtip in AM and see what 56000 miles of factory filtering has let slip through (I doub't very much as these are pretty thick looking for a filter). I'll run the vents and fan with these DIY filters for a week and then give it another swab and see if I get any dusty residue. I'll report back.
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#15 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 04:36 PM
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I knew I should have shot pic of thing out of package before I ripped it apart

The filter comes in a black plastic frame with the grids on both sides of the foam and gauze.
It looks like a larger version of what I have in my hand. You just pry away the plastic frame and you are left with 2 sheets of plastic grid, 2 sheets of plastic gauze and 1 sheet of thin foam

I used snips to cut down the grid (a big toenail clipper will work) and scissors to do the foam and gauze. Just cut the grid so it fits snug in your old filter frame. Place one piece on bottom (it will catch on a lip or the ridges that held the old filter material then a layer of gauze- then the foam- another gauze and another piece of cut grid. No glue- just press fit everything. will be easy to dismantle and wash out and reinstall.
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