ASC light and Manufacture alarm - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-15-2004, 12:41 PM
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I just got my 2 front tires put on my 1998 528i. Now the ASC light stay on, pushing the ASC button doesn't turn it off. It drives really heavy, but straight. Do I need alignment to fix it? Did the tire tech accidently cause a loose wire of some kind?
The manufacture alarm keeps going off, all this after 2 front tires change.
I got this car 2 weeks ago and love it. Please advise!!!


"ASC" PROBLEM IS NOW FIXED, SEE BELOW!
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-15-2004, 01:59 PM
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Most likely a sensor was disconnected by accident and pluged in back again causing the light to stay on... Was this a small shop? Did you put same size tires?

You may have to take it to the dealer... As for the alarm, Are you sure they didn't mess with wires causing a short circuit... Anyway, do a search under alarm in this forum. There is a fuse in the back of the car that you can remove to stop the siren from working... IF YOU CAN'T FIND THE THREAD, LET ME KNOW AND I'LL LOOK IT UP TONIGHT AND LET YOU KNOW...


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#3 (permalink) Old 09-15-2004, 06:06 PM
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Yes, I replace them with the same size tires. It has 19" rims on them, very nice. I hope it's something basic that I can do instead of taking it to the dealer.. I just got the car, short on money; taking to the dealer would cost a bit I'm sure. Should I take it to a BMW shop instead? Maybe cheaper.

I'm sure the shop just changed tires and shouldn't have touched anything else other than lifting the car up. I'm hoping with a little driving it would reset itself, but I put maybe 30 miles on it since; and ASC light still lid.

Thanks for your reply!
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-15-2004, 11:25 PM
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This is what I think and I hope this will you out sorting your problem:

LOS's point about tire size is valid, any tire mismatch will get translated by the ASC as an upnormal traction where it may kick in to compensate. Having said that; I don't think this is the case because the ASC is dealing with the rear tires (u said u changed the front ones) since Bimmers are rear wheel drives and that is where they loose traction...now loosing traction (i.e. accelarating on ice, gravle) is a bit different than skidding with front or back wheel (i.e. breaking on ice ) in this case the ABS is the guy your car will be asking for help and correction..that is ABS sensors on all four tires. Changing tires very rearly cause missing up wires..if any changing wheel bearing might (involves pulling down on struts where ABS sensor wires break if not disconnected).

Also the way the ASC system responds to a REAR loss of traction is different from the ABS (break pad pulsing against the rotors) ASC acts by CUTTING DOWN ON THE THROTTLE (more or less chocking the engine) so a bad throttle switch (sets on the top of the throttle body with a retaining clip) will give you a solid orange triangle light in the middle of your dash. You can not turn off by the ASC button. or it may be the ASC button itself is soaked with 7 11 regular coffee, cream and sugar. Notice its proximity to your cupholders. In any case start with the throttle body switch for now.

1st try to disconnect the battery for a while reconnect to reinitialize all your systems then take it from there. If you have the scanner you will know for sure.
Good luck...let us know how u make out
regards
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 02:54 AM
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ASC actually works from your ABS sensors. Yes it only operates on the rear wheels but all four wheels have ABS sensors (for obvious reasons). It may be that the tyre fitter somehow pulled or loosened one of your front ABS sensors which would most probably affect your ASC.

One little test to see if the ASC is actually operational is the following:-

Start the car and DON'T touch the ASC button (ASC is as you probably know activated by default on starting the car). In a safe place clutch in, engage first gear, push the throttle down to the floor and when the revs hit about 6000 just take you foot off the clutch - If ASC is indeed activated you will just hear a lot of noise (like clutch slip) and your car will pull forward without spinning the wheels. If ASC is NOT activated you will just slowly creep forward emitting a rather large and satisfying cloud of rubber smoke from the arse end of the car as your wheels try to lay down 195 horses to the road.

The above should at least let you know if ASC is constantly de-activated.

I don't know your level of car maintenance competence but it might be worth removing the front wheels and just looking to see if there are any un connected wires around the brake caliper area and/or gently reseating any wires which are connected.

Hope this helps

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#6 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 02:58 AM
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OH I forgot to mention have a look at the cars fuse diagram to see if the alarm shares a fuse with the ASC or ABS (you'll be surprised what fuses are shared by somethings) if so this may be why both are giving problems.

Also you say the car feels heavy. This may just be that the new tyres you had fitted behave in a slightly different way to the previous and/or the tyre pressure has been set different to how you previously had it.

Good luck
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 03:16 AM
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Thanks all, I will try all your suggestions. However, I have an automatic; is there a different way. I can fix car somewhat, just don't know much about ASC system. I will check for loose wires and fuses.
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 07:16 AM
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The road surface is dry and visibility is good. Even tight cornering poses no problems. But suddenly things turn nasty when, without any warning, you've hit loose chippings. And that spells trouble.

The car starts to go out of control and rear threatens to break away. You apply brakes carefully and sensitively countersteer, keeping your eyes glued to the oncoming traffic.

It is a situation that demands a whole series of perfectly coordinated reactions which only an experienced rally driver could be expected to execute flawlessly at any time.

The same situation could be mastered without the least bit of effort or stress if you happened to be driving a BMW equipped with ASC+T. This stands for Automatic Stability Control plus Traction, and is a system which prevents the drive wheels from spinning, thereby ensuring that the car stays on course in all conditions.
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#9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2004, 08:01 AM
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You should be able to accomplish the same in an auto by stopping, putting her into a full lock then in 1st gear (or drive I guess)Floor her. If you are now doing a real smokey doughnut with the arse end spinning up the ASC is off.

This might not help with the problem but will allow you to see if you need to take extra caution when driving fast or in the wet due to the loss of ASC (plus it's good fun - might be needing some rear tyres if you do it too often though).

REGS
BLZ
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#10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2004, 01:59 AM
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will try to look for loose wiring and fuses.
I think what ever it is, it might has affected the ABS system as well. Because when I let go of the gal pedal during driving, it seems like the car drag and slow down much more the normal loosing a lot of forward momentum; as if the brakes of transmittion slow it down. If it only the ASC deactivated, it shouldn't do that right? Not when going straight on smooth road, right?
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#11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2004, 03:13 AM
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Obviously I can't tell just how much "drag" you're getting when you let off the gas but odd as it seems the new tyres - particularly the pressure within them can cause drag to a certain extent - A higher pressure within the tyre will allow it to roll much easier than one with low pressure and a massive contact patch with the road.

The tyre design itself can make a difference too - most manufacturers make an economy tyre these days, this doesn't mean it's for the budget conscious but means that it will save you juice by the fact that it rolls easier causing less resistance to the cars forward force.

Have you changed the brand of tyres you use???
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#12 (permalink) Old 09-18-2004, 06:39 PM
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THANKS, ASC constantly lighted on dashboard is fixed!!!!

First, I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the system; this didn't solve the ASC light.

Second, I looked under the wheel areas, but didn't see any loose wiring.

Third, I looked that the cable that connected to the throttle housing; and there it was. The cable was fine, but it had come off the bracket which was loose and didn't have any tension. I reattached the cable and braced; tightened with correct tension, problem went away. I'm very happy to say that everything is back to normal. Just wonder why that happened just after the tire change. sabotage? hmmm.

As for the alarm, has not gone off in the last 2 hours after I unplugged the battery cable. Let's wait and see.

Thanks everyone!! This is an awesome website. It's certainly in my bookmarks!!
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#13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2004, 06:48 PM
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glad to hear that
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#14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2004, 03:58 AM
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Glad you're sorted
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