After u-turn, 530i check engine light - running rough - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60) Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)

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#1 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 02:47 PM
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After u-turn, 530i check engine light - running rough

Hi,

I have a 1994 530i.

I recently drove it from Tennessee to Texas. On the last part of the trip (about 30 miles from destination) I go off at an exit for gas. I had 1/4 tank and figured I'd fill it up.

After getting off the exit, I saw two gas stations on the other side of the road but there was a concrete divider and I traveled down the road until I found an opening in the divider.

I made a u-turn and started heading back to the gas stations. After making the u-turn... the check engine light came on and the engine began to run rough and getting worse.

I was able to limp into the parking lot of one of the gas stations and the car stopped running.

I tried starting but it would try running for a second or two and then stop. After a couple of tries, the only thing that would happen is the starter would crank and that's all.

I had to have it towed to my destination.

Upon arrival I tried starting it again. The starter cranked.. nothing else.

The next day I tried starting it again. It started but the check engine light is on and it is running rough and barely idles.

Is this a fuel pump problem?

-James
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 01:18 PM
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Have you pulled codes? It sounds like MAF sensor died.
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#3 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 08:01 PM
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Get the codes scanned at an auto parts store or a mechanic. The codes displayed by the OBD system will help identify the problem.


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#4 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 11:18 AM
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Codes

After making my original post, I found out about the foot pedal check engine light readout and the number it gives me is 1213: Lambda Control #2
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 05:29 PM
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My understanding is it's caused anytime there's mixture deviation from what the DME is "expecting" the O2 sensor to report under a certain set of conditions on the computer's map. ie, the fuel isn't getting delivered properly, air is leaking in, the car isn't burning the mixture well or one of the DME inputs is wrong.

Quote:
Lambda Control 2

This code is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked, Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak, Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by mechanical failure (Spark plugs, compression, intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.)
Odds are its probably a sensor. But run some Chevron Technron thru it, and check your MAF and O2 sensors. Check your battery connections and grounds as well. Especially at the DME.


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#6 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 12:30 PM
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Still not running right

Hi,

I recently had some time to work on the car. Luckily I'm within walking distance of my job and they have kept me busy.

I put Chevron Technron in the tank and checked all the connections as suggested and there were a couple of things on the electronics under the back seat that were loose. One was a coax cable.

I noticed that when I disconnected the connector to the MAF, the engine would run almost normal... even idle (roughly) so I got a new MAF and installed it.

It started and was running a bit rough but it would idle and then the check coolant came on.

While the car was running I checked things under the hood. There is a plastic hose that runs from the top of the radiator to the firewall and connects where coolant is added.

The first 12 inches or so coming from the radiator isn't plastic but a rubber hose. I noticed where the hose slid over the plastic one, there are two clamps and I could see bubbles coming out of the connection. The clamps had been put on too tight and they caused the plastic to crack allowing light leakage.

I cut the plastic so it didn't have a crack anymore, slid the hose back over it and tightened the clamps (not as tight).

I cranked the car and pumped the gas a bit and it started. Ran rough for and bit and then started running smoother and it would now idle. I checked the clamps to make sure there wasn't bubbles or leakage.

I turned it off and re-cranked it and it started immediately. Didn't even have to touch the gas.

It was running smoother and idling ok. The check engine light was still on.

From time to time the rpm's would increase for a moment without me doing anything and then go back down.

It was running fairly normal but I could tell that something was still not right.

After 15 minutes or so it began running rough again and soon after that, stopped running.

When I tried starting it again I had to pump the gas and it hacked and coughed like a engine trying to backfire.
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#7 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 12:53 PM
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Well, I am no expert, but I had something very similar with my M5. Running rough. Back fire. Stalling while driving. Etc.
However after I installed new MAF's (M5 has 2), car became alive again. One thing I did before installing new MAF's is cleaned the connectors. After install, I left the car idle for about 10 min so MAF's adapt. (I live at a high altitude).
Before new MAF's I was getting all kind of odd codes. I would get up to 10 to 12 codes. (I can find a list of codes I was getting, if that helps in any way).
Just out of curiosity, did you use OEM BMW MAF or after-market?
Also you may want to try BG. I've been using BG products (http://www.bgprod.com/) since mid 90's and I would not put anything else in my car.

Best of Luck with your car and please keep updating.
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#8 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 10:18 PM
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I cleaned the connectors and then sprayed them and the plug with maf cleaner.

I let them dry and then re-connected. I purchased a bosch maf.

I disconnected the positive terminal on the battery and connected it to the negative terminal with a jumper cable then waited a couple of minutes.

I then unconnected the jumper cable and re-connected the positive terminal to the battery.

As I was doing this, I heard a loud sound that came from the electronics in the back seat that startled me.

After everything was secure I tried starting the car and all it does is crank. Not even a hint of starting.
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#9 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 12:44 PM
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Again, just our of curiosity. Why did you disconnected the battery? Also why connecting POSITIVE to NEGATIVE via jumper cable?
I guess I'm trying to understand the logic, plus maybe learn something new.
Thanks.
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#10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 02:56 PM
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Reset

Connecting positive to negative apparently re-boots the car.
Here is a video that shows a procedure to clear error codes/reset
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1txfvI0jxs

Last edited by jblish; 08-07-2013 at 03:01 PM.
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#11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 04:58 PM
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OK. I understand now. I never had to do that, since I have BavAuto SR-300 scanner.
Seems harmless, but I don't think I would have use this method in my M5 or any other car of mine. I've heard a lot of horror stories from other bimmer drivers that went the "creative" way to clear codes / etc., and ended up screwing up the car. But thank you for the link. It was actually very interesting.

So what was that loud sound your heard? Did happen to figure out what it was?
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#12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E39m5 View Post
So what was that loud sound your heard? Did happen to figure out what it was?
No idea what made the sound. It only lasted a moment.

I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body and it started right up so I'll be checking: fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, fuel pump

At this point I'm betting it is the fuel filter but I'm going to need a way to get the car in the air so I can take a look and know what to order. Since I'm new in town and don't know many people... this may prove to be difficult.

On another note: There is something on the engine on the driver's side next to the firewall that hums when I turn the key on. When I touch the top of it, it is hot and almost burns my finger. Don't know what it is but it looks like it is connected to a line that goes down under the motor.
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#13 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblish View Post
No idea what made the sound. It only lasted a moment.

I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body and it started right up so I'll be checking: fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, fuel pump

At this point I'm betting it is the fuel filter but I'm going to need a way to get the car in the air so I can take a look and know what to order. Since I'm new in town and don't know many people... this may prove to be difficult.

On another note: There is something on the engine on the driver's side next to the firewall that hums when I turn the key on. When I touch the top of it, it is hot and almost burns my finger. Don't know what it is but it looks like it is connected to a line that goes down under the motor.
sorry to hear hope you get it fixed soon
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#14 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 07:12 PM
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I know in my E39, when I put the key in to ON position, there is some humming, but its barely noticeable. I can only hear it when I'm in the garage. But I think that just computers are booting up or NAVI is coming on line. (My M-Benz C300 does it too).
However there is nothing that's so hot under the hood.................at least nothing that I can think of at the moment.

Are you able to take a picutre to show the part that is getting hot? If you can not, don't worry about. I am just very curios.
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#15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2013, 11:43 PM
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Twilight zone

I haven't had a chance to post an update. Been busy at work.

George Carlin has a skit on losing things... "Do you ever keep going back to the place where the thing you lost should be and say, "Nope, not back yet".

That is what I was doing with the car... "Nope, not starting yet".

Well.. a couple of days after doing the battery jumper cable thing and having the starter turning over with no hint of starting... I went down to the car on my daily test.

I put the key in, cranked the engine without touching the pedal and it started.

Idling perfectly.

Cue the Twilight Zone music.

I let it idle for about ten minutes to see if it would hang in there and it did.

I decided to push down on the accelerator to see what happens.

It responded well.

I got the rpm gauge up to 2 for several seconds.. no problems. When I let off on the pedal it returned to idle then revved up a bit on it's own for a second and then returned to normal idle.

I decided to drive around the neighborhood (staying within walking distance if the engine died) and it ran properly with no issues.

I took it out on the 4 lane next to the house and quickly got it up to 40 mph. I didn't hesitate and responded like the car I was used to.

I got back to the parking lot and parked. I've started it every evening without giving it any gas and it starts and idles like it used to.

The check engine light has been on during all this. When I do the stomp code I get 1215 which is the MAF. This makes sense because I had to disconnect the air flow tube going to the throttle body so I could spray starter fluid into it and during that time there was no air flow going through the MAF.

I've read that the check engine light can be reset. After getting initial code, press five times to get the next code. There aren't any other codes. The check engine light goes off for a bit... then flashes once, then stays on for a bit and then repeats. Not sure what that is.

If there aren't any other codes... pressing the accelerator to the floor for 10 seconds is supposed to reset it so it reads 1444 when you stomp test again. Mine goes back to 1215.

"E39m5" - I'll get a picture for you after I get the camera charged.

I've attached an image of my BMW that was taken before the trip that started this adventure.
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