97 528i rack,and pinion problem!

[prmoorman1]

97E39, on a different subject, "Programming the remote", I have a 97 BMW with a
99 manual. Helpful in a lot of areas, but I can't get both remotes to work,I have
one for me, and one for my wife". I can get either,or, but not both. I have tried
numerous times,I can only attribute it to the difference in 97 to 99. Would you be
so kind as to look in your 97 book an give me some guidance? What i'm trying to say
is, using the procedure from the 99 manual, I can set one,but not the other. then
I can first set the other, but won't set the other one. Thanx

[winters97E39]

Sure - I will take a look at it and get back with you later tonight, unless someone else has a 97 e39 manual that can answer before me...

[prmoorman1]

Originally Posted by winters97E39

Sure - I will take a look at it and get back with you later tonight, unless someone else has a 97 e39 manual that can answer before me...

NO, I just asked you, I didn't put it in the forum.
If you want, you can e-mail it to me at prm357@hotmail.com.

Thanx.

[winters97E39]

ok -

From my manual:

"Whenever you replace the batteries, you will need to reinitialize the transmitter (exception: if you finish replacing the batteries within one minute without pressing any of the unit's buttons). You must also initialize new transmitters (e.g., replacement units for defective transmitters) prior to use:
1. Enter the vehicle and close the driver's door.
2. Briefly (max 5 seconds) turn the ignition key to position 1 in the steering lock, then return it to position 0.
3. Press and hold down button 1 (the unlock button) on the transmitter. Maintain pressure on button 1 while rapidly pressing button 2 (the lock button) three times in succession within a period of ten seconds.
4. Release button 1.
5. The central locking system activates and releases all lock mechanisms in rapid succession to indicate that the initialization procedure has been successfully completed.

Should the central locking system fail to respond as described above, the initialization procedure will have to be repeated.

If you possess additional transmitters for your vehicle (up to a maximum of four units), you must now initialize these as well. Ensure that no more than 30 seconds are allowed to elapse between the individual initialization procedures. Leave the ignition key in position 0 until the procedure has been completed.

In the even of a system malfunction, please contact your authorized BMW Dealer, who can also provide you with replacement transmitters."

Hope that helps! Pay attention to the line I put in Bold, because that could be why you can initialize either one, but not both at the same time.

[prmoorman1]

Thanx 97E39, I will copy this and try it soon, if it works, I'll let you know.

[97_528i_03_330xi]

OK I want to bring this thread back on subject.

I own a 1997 528I that started leaking power steering fluid out the left side boot about 4 months ago. At first it was just a small leak and only a few drops. It has now progressed to being a spout. I lose the entire reservoir in one day especially if the car sits which means it leaks more with no pressure than it does pressurized. As far as leaks go its very bad. The next thing to say is it isn't a hose connection. All those are dry as a bone. It is a seal leak thats coming out of the left side of the rack, thru the boot and onto the floor. So for the guy who said hes never had to fix one well here's one now. I have purchased a reman and it was reasonable.

Here's the reason for my post. I strongly considered doing this job myself. In fact I wanted to do it myself. But the problem is, even though it isnt a very hard job it's a little tricky because I don't want to screw up the outer tie-rods. Also, I don't have a winch to raise the engine and I'm skeptical of jacking it. Therefore, I started looking around for a shop to do it. What I found is that the professional big name shops will try to gouge the @#$%^ out of you on this one. But the good news is there are plenty of respectable private mechanics who are out there willing to do work for a reasonable price. But you have to ask around for them. I found my guy simply by talking to guys in the auto parts store and making a few calls to shops that I KNEW DIDN'T WORK ON BMW'S. Why? Because they're gonna know who the good guys are that do that are fair. And they did. The guy I ended up getting referred to works exclusively on foreign jobs and does outsourcing work in town for some of the other private shops. He came highly recommended. And very reasonable. The entire job including parts and alignment will cost me about $700. Half the quote of several shops I approached. Yes its a rebuild, but it has a lifetime guarantee. I'm in Texas where the straight shooters are so that may be part of it. But the installer guy got me the referral on the alignment guy too so I'm happy about that as well.

And oh yeah. I love my BMW's but this one has given me a real headache.

[prmoorman1]

That is fair, I bought mine from carsteering.com for $360,and this guy was going to
charge me $200 to install,and alignment $60. This one came with the inner tie rods.
After getting it here, found out it was the clamps were loose. By the way, shipping
is free from this company.

[arose4mb]

Got it in the shop now and went searching for info after realizing couldn't get it out without jacking up the engine.Where did you place the jack/wood to raise the engine that 2"? The choices all seem scary if something slips. Did you remove engine mounts or just remove bolts?

[prmoorman1]

I didn't do the repair, or, wasn't intending to, I had a guy who had done this
before, and what he was telling me was he has a motor lift jack that he puts
in front of the car, and over the front of the engine, it has a place for a hook
up to lift an engine from the car, and that is what he uses, and swears that it
is a simple removal. If one doesn't have the proper equipment, then I can see
where it can, and would be contentious.