5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
So my 528i is going to hit 100k soon and I'm wondering what types of things would be a good idea to have checked out/replaced at this point?
I've noticed it gets a little shakey around 55mph and around 75mph...although the shake at around 55mph started happening more recently...I actually got a flat a few weeks back and think maybe it's something relevant to that.
I managed to dent/scrape up the body piece under the door as well when that happened, I guess from it dragging against the ground (ouch)...as you can imagine i am not too happy about that...any suggestions/similar experiences in regards to that? Probably could use some other body work as well, but this is what concerns me the most in that regard..
I basically want it to be like new without spending a fortune...it drives pretty good for the most part so really the above issues are the main two things that I'm concerned with...(and one's cosmetic at that)
100K is really not that old for an e39. The shaking is 95% likely to be your control arm bushings. I had to replace them on my 97 540i now twice I believe. The design is just bad so they wear fast. Replace them and you'll be smooth as glass. As for under the door, have a body shop take a look and I bet it'll be easier to fix than you think.
my car probably needs alignment as well, I have to keep my steering wheel just a tiny bit to the right to keep the car straight...I always figured it was probably relevant to the same thing causing the shaking...just something worn out...I probably should just get it all fixed at the same time...
so is there really not anything major I should worry about getting checked at 100k?
As for the shaking, if it is the bushings (probably is) then you'll need an alignment after replacement anyway.
If you've kept up on all your regular maintenance and services throughout the years, 100k should be no special mileage. Just drive right through it and keep everything up as soon as you notice something wrong. Since it is a high mileage vehicle, this is important as everything is old - so parts that are wearing can cause accelerated wear on other parts. It can get VERY expensive really fast.
yes, BMW does now say the fluid is life long, but even the dealers say it should still be changed regularly.
I had a 1997 528i and was experiencing transmission problems, had the fluid and filter changed, and the fluid was pretty burnt.
on my 1999 528iT at 90k I had the fluid flushed and filter changed at the recommendation of my mechanic.
BMW changed the fluid to "life long" after they started including regularly scheduled maintenance as part of the new car warranty, nothing changed in the transmission, yet all of a sudden changing the fluid was no longer required?
read Roundel and other technical support websites, they adamantly suggest changing the fluid as well.
"Lifetime" fluid refers only to the lifetime of the transmission, which would be shortened from not changing the fluid. Change the fluid in your trans and differential. Only leave the fluid in there for YOUR lifetime if BMW provides a warranty to cover that time period (and they don't). And if it's been more than 2 years, change your coolant, and change your brake fluid.
I am now at nearly 125K in my 1999 540/6, and fortunately my radiator upper hose was reworked before I bought my car. I've owned many hi-miles cars, and I think you only need to take an incremental approach to preventive maintenance replacement of things, as long as you also address those items specifically called out to be replaced at 100K miles (different items for your car, but in my case included spark plugs and O2 sensors).
Rear ball joints are generally worn out by 100K (I replaced mine at 110), and most front shaking is caused by worn bushings on those front components. Just replace what's needed to stop the vibration. Others may disagree, but to me the incremental approach is better than spending a lot of money replacing everything at once. For instance, wait until a wheel bearing starts to make noise, then just go ahead and replace L & R side bearings, and so on.
Alternatively, there is an e-Bay vendor in CT who sells entire front end rebuild kits. His I-6 E39 kit is $449 and includes both lower wishbone pieces and bushings, tie rod ends, and sway bar end links, for both sides of the car. That's one way to get it all at once and not kill your self too much.
__________________ <span style='colorurple'>Eric S.</span>
2006 Honda Odyssey EXL-RES
2006 Honda Accord V6 EX-L Sedan
1999 BMW 540i 6-Speed (Sold to M3UOND on 9/21/06)
1991 Honda Civic Si - Occasional Beater
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