5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
hello all, I'm new here and I've come with a problem, (actually a few problems) We had a torrential rainfall a few days ago ans after that i went out to move my car. Starting was a little rough but I chaulked it up to humidity in the ignition system. I moved the car all seemed well, but when I went out to leave for work it would'nt start, It turns over but acts like no gas or no spark. I disconnected one end of the fuel rail and had pressure there. Now I'm at a loss, Is there a way to check for spark without disconnecting the spark packs? I dont have a Peake reader and most of the mechanics in my area are asking like $150 just to read the codes. It's an ODB-1 and for some reason the stomp test doesn't work on this car. Looking for advice if any of you have any it would be appreciated.
I would check the E-box which is the black box on the passenger side of the engine compartment against the firewall. you can remove the cover with 4 screws. Under the cover is where the engine control module is. Check to see if it took on any water.
Thanks for the advice however I've been in there looking around and so far nothing. I've checked the coil pack voltage, it's good, Ive exchanged the main relay with one from the other fuse box (same part#) no change. i puuled on e of the plugs to take a look and it was a little black but not fouled nor was it wet with gas, which makes me tend to think it's a fuel issue even though it appeared to have pressure. I still have to look at the pressure regulator and the injector circuits
Well as an update to my original post. i discovered that my compression is only 60psi instaed of the 122psi minimum. his means I will have to tear the front end of the engine down. In addition that requires a few speacial tools and I was wondering if anyone knows where I might be able to purchase these special tools: 11 2 300 crankshaft locking pin, 11 3 240 camshaft locking tool, and the 11 3 290 chain tensioner locking pin.
I've got at least two on the drivers side that are the same. i would think it highly unlikely that two valves bent to the same degree and affected the compression indentically. It's more likely that the master timing chain jumped a tooth and all the valves are out of time by the same amount
If the timing chain jumped a tooth all cylinders would be low by equal amounts, assuming no valves are bent. An engine with low compression on a couple of cylinders will usually start fine,unless you are pushing air backwards; this throws the computer system off and fuel does not charge the cylinder correctly.You could have bent or out of sync valves. Could be one is hanging up in the guide.Lots of coulds here! Have you squirt oil down the spark plug holes and rechecked the compression? I am suspious about the water issue. Could some have gotten in the intake system? Keep us posted.
I bought a set of those camshaft tools from ZDmak and was pleased with them. It was a good price and the tools are good quality and work well. I agree with fastshivy that you should squirt some oil in the cylinders and re-do the compression test. It doesnt make sense that you would park the car, wash it and then all of a sudden you have low compression on all cylinders. Maybe the cylinders are washed down due to flooding (with fuel). I'd do at least 1 more compression test this time with oil in the cylinders before condemning the engine. Also if possible do a leakdown test to try and get an idea of where the problem is before just tearing in to things.
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