5-Series (E12,E28, E34, E39, E60)Chat relating to the BMW 5-Series of all generations. Specific models include: BMW 518, BMW 520, BMW 520i, BMW 530i, BMW 528i, BMW 530i, BMW 518i, BMW 524d, BMW 525i, BMW 525e, BMW 528e, BMW 540i, BMW 535i, BMW 520d, BMW 525td, BMW 525d, BMW 530d, BMW 525i/xi, BMW 530i/xi. (BMW 5-Series Forum)
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Hi guys please don't hang me out to dry but up until now I have been an MB guy.. (still own 1997 E320) I am looking for some tips on buying a BMW 525i touring. First off I am buying the car for local driving and I am not looking for anything perfect, because I don't want the price tag of perfect. However I would like it to run for at least a year!! : )
About the car:
Good:
Black on Black wagon with functioning full roof sunroof. Body is in pretty good shape but could use a good buffing. Interior is nice also, wood with no visible high wear spots. Looks good!
The Bad:
Right front window is off track ? (was told), AC doesn't work because the belt that runs the AC has sheered off. The rest of the belts are in place and look fine. (doesn't bother me much). The car has a slight intermitten miss, he said he just changed the plugs, and Im pretty sure he is not mechanically inclined. Tranmission shifts smooth as silk.(thats good!) He has been putting lower octane fuel in the car...Ican hear it! He has driven the car cross country twice and lots of other long distance trips ta boot. car has 227K he will let me have it for $2,000.
My biggest concern are with the slight miss, though he has been driving it as is for a while I think ( I felt the car shutter once on my test drive, appr. 5 miles) and with pulley belt missing, from what I can tell the belt only opperates the AC. Correct?
The window can be fixed easily. The AC is probably shredding its belt because of a messed up pulley, which is again not some giant repair.
As for the miss ... he changed the plugs, but what about the coils? That car has individual coils for every plug -- at that mileage, they are probably needing replacement. Also, fuel filter, air filter and it should get back to normal.
Also, it's supposed to run on premium so that might be helping it with the miss.
Either way, for 2 grand I think it's a good deal -- if you decide to do the things I wrote above, that should run you another ... 5-6 hundred probaly ... or just drive as is, and part it out once you don't want it any longer.
Body panels (such as bumpers, sideskirts, trunk, hood etc) can bring in some money if sold. There are always people looking for the engines to rebuild and turbo, so that could probably be sold ...
I guess what I'm trying to say is: Get it, because even if you can't get it in good running order, you can always part it out and break even or possibly make some money.
Good luck either way, and welcome to bimmerwerkz.
PS. What year is the car? Im guessing a e34 (89-95) given the price. Do yourself a favor and also check out www.bmwe34.net for help with getting it perfect. Also download the Bentley Service Manual at the top of the 5 series forum here (it is very useful and costs 65 dollars if you want to buy it).
With that said, I hope you stick around; and give us pictures once you get it. We love pictures here.
Thanks for taking the time to reply! You guess correct it is a 1993! I'm with you on this, I don't see how I can lose, especially since the touring models are so rare.. I'll post some pics as soon as I get her home!!
ok so I just purchased her! I will be able to pick her up on Wed. next week after which I'll post some photos. The window is indeed off track and the motor works fine! I think all the ac needs is a belt and some freon. Is it true that these things have 134A instead of R12? I heard 1993 was the first year for 134A on these cars?!?! if so that is great news too! The temp gage was running just under the halfway mark. Is that where it's suppose to be? I opened the radiator cap just after a short jount at 60 plust mph and she didn't spew and didn't seem hot at all. Though the level looks fine the on board comp is asking to add coolant? Also will one of the reverse lights or license plate lamps being out trigger the "brake lamp" out warning?
sorry for the twenty questions...but appreciate your help,
ok so I just purchased her! I will be able to pick her up on Wed. next week after which I'll post some photos. The window is indeed off track and the motor works fine! I think all the ac needs is a belt and some freon. Is it true that these things have 134A instead of R12? I heard 1993 was the first year for 134A on these cars?!?! if so that is great news too! The temp gage was running just under the halfway mark. Is that where it's suppose to be? I opened the radiator cap just after a short jount at 60 plust mph and she didn't spew and didn't seem hot at all. Though the level looks fine the on board comp is asking to add coolant? Also will one of the reverse lights or license plate lamps being out trigger the "brake lamp" out warning?
sorry for the twenty questions...but appreciate your help,
Thanks,
B-
Congrats on the purchase!
I am not sure about the AC deal -- could very well be that.
Yes, the temp gauge is supposed to stay at or below the half-way mark -- if it goes over, it could mean that it's overheating ... the temp gauges are quite slow which means by the time it shows you the 5 degrees hotter, you could be running 50 ...
If it's telling you to add coolant, you should - on the expansion tank there is a line which says 'KALT' (cold) which means that you should fill up to that line when the car is cold. If it still gives you the message, you need a new coolant level sensor which is not expensive at all.
BRAKE LAMP means just that -- a brake light (light that comes on when you push the brake pedal). Have someone press the pedal and go see if all 3 work. If they work and the message is still there, try cleaning the connections on the sockets and bulbs - if that doesn't help, it's likely your brake light switch (located under brake pedal), and that is a 10-15 dollar part - you can get it on ebay even cheaper perhaps.
Oh, and another thing I'm gonna post, because you're bound to ask this and I have the diagram with me at the moment (we all do :lol: ). The rear center vents do not blow cold or hot air -- they are there for a supply of fresh outside air.
Diagram:
Awesome...Thanks so much for that info.....I'm sure I would have asked that question too .. I am excited about being a bimmer owner!!
PS the car appeared to be running at the 153 f. mark....sounds like good news!! And Im assuming the coolant level was low since it was below the mark you spoke of when warm.
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